Okay i am taking the step out from n00bness and actually am going to make this build.

AUG FEILD/DMR

Base gun: JG civilian AUG

FPS goal: 400 fps with .30 bbs

Range goal: 200-250 feet

RPS: 5-10

PARTS

MADBULL 6.01 509mm barrel

Systema bucking

BRAVO polycarb piston

SRC high torque motor

ECHO 1 SP140 spring

Metal bushings

Shims

Bravo polycarb piston head

Bravo advanced mosfet

Correct AOE

G&G V3 Cylinder head

Looks good. Add some shims and grease. And pics

BTW, whats up with all these AUGs lately... Tackett, you have influenced the minds of many lol

Have seen an aug? Their freakin gorgeous!

Originally Posted by chumbro

Okay i am taking the step out from n00bness and actually am going to make this build.

AUG FEILD/DMR

Base gun: JG civilian AUG

FPS goal: 400 fps with .30 bbs

Range goal: 200-250 feet

RPS: 5-10

PARTS

MADBULL 6.01 509mm barrel

Systema bucking

BRAVO polycarb piston

SRC high torque motor

ECHO 1 SP140 spring

Metal bushings

Shims

Bravo polycarb piston head

Bravo advanced mosfet

Correct AOE

G&G V3 Cylinder head

Ok, can I make somne suggestinos that will help save you some dough?

1: In my experience, the 6.01 barrels are more of a pain than they are worth, it will pull up your fps a tad, but your accuracy will really suffer. I would just use the stock barrel and tune the hop up nice and fine to get groupings that you are happy with. 250feet with .30g bbs a stock JG barrel is more than adequate.

2: The bravo piston, is a good piston, but its a tad expensive. Bravo gets lonex parts and rebrands them, which I dont have a problem with, since lonex parts are a little hard to come by. I would save dough, buy this piston and superglue the rack. youll never need another.
SHS Nylon Piston with 15 teeth SHS Blue 15 tooth - $9.00 : Clandestine Airsoft

3: A spring is a spring. A 140 will probably get you in the ballpark, here is a cheaper 140:
SHS M140 Spring - $5.00 : Clandestine Airsoft

4: These are good metal bushings for your box (which i think are 6mm...)
SHS 6mm Steel Bushings - $3.50 : Clandestine Airsoft

5: The polycarb piston head is probably OK at that fps. But just for durabilities sake and since you arent looking for a large ROF, I would get a metal piston head. The supershooter aluminum head is nice. Actually the bravo aluminum head is nice to, and is currently what Im using. Again, its a lonex rebrand. But its nice. Heres the super shooter:
Ball Bearing Aluminum Piston Head - $6.00 : Clandestine Airsoft

6: SRC makes a good motor, and Im pretty sure thats a neodynium motor, someone else can comment on it. If you need a good high torque neo motor go with a SHS hi torque. Dream army is a SHS rebrand, so again, heres the link, any chinese neo motor will do you though:
KHMountain


7: what are you trying to accomplish with the mosfet? If you are planning on using the lipo and are using it for electrical efficiency only. I would suggest getting a 20 dollar simple FET instead of a more expensive mosfet that would have a bunch of features you may not even use. Extremefire makes a simple fet for about that much.

A few things that you may not hyave thought about
DONT screw with the stock cylinder head/air nozzle assembly. just dont do it. keep both of them and assess your fps. If it appears that you have a air leak at the nozzle, then replace it. The lengths on the aug nozzles are a huge pain, and trust me, you dont want to open that ball of wax dude.

Buy some 70D sorbothane padding for your AOE adjustment. clandestine has some.

polish the gears
polish the gearbox
polish the cylinder
teflon tape or permatex the cylinder head to the cylinder
sand down the tappet a hair.
tune the hop up as per my sticky.
shim bevel to pinion as per AGE's sticky
adjust motor height using that same shimming sticky
The systema bucking may not be hard enough at that FPS to properly seal, I would suggest a 70D guarder bucking or a 80D king arms bucking.
epoxy your bushings
A metal spring guide is a MUST, I would buy a solid metal spring guide and use the bearings in the piston head to add some weight to your piston assembly. Dont try to use a piston head bearing AND a spring guide bearing. ITs a pain.
Deans connectors and lipoly.


now, one other thing....

The list that both you and I are looking at, will net you a larger ROF than you would think. If you are hell bent on mainting as low a ROF goal as you placed in your list. Someone will have to help you out with motor starving. Unless you can find a mosfet that will allow you to control the rate to that extent, motor starvation is really the only way to maintain that kind of ROF. Its going to be touchy though. To little current and you will run down your batts quickly, and really heat up the electrical system. Some of the better guys around here can help you out in that department. I would say the only reliable way to get that low is with a mosfet. Which may be why you listed the bravo in the first place. I dont know if it is capable of that though. Someone will help you get around this.

Thats pretty much all I got. Im sure I said something wrong in this, and someone better will come behind me and make the necessary corrections.

The key to doing this is to get a plan of action before you start buying stuff willy nilly.

Dont try to use a piston head bearing AND a spring guide bearing. ITs a pain.

I have always heard this, but never known the reason. Could you please explain for me?

its just a pain in the butt to get the spring compressed because of the amount of pre compression that both sets of bearings gives you. IT really boosts the FPS though.

I tried putting that m190 in the DMR with a bearing guide and bearing head.....it was a BEAR.

ROFL 5-10 rps?

You could achieve your goal doing 30 rps easily...Even though I didn't read half of the thing Tackett posted I'm sure it's in depth and great stuff. I see no need to post that much when there are plenty of search bars throughout the inter-webs but hey...Maybe Tackett's just a joly guy this time a season

I have heard that it causes "binding" whatever that means... It would seem like the extra decrease in friction wouldn't really do much, but IDK. I have run both bearing SP and PH with no issues on an M123 so I dunno....... I can imagine that the M190 is a bear regardless of the BEARing. See what I did there?

Originally Posted by Tackett

its just a pain in the butt to get the spring compressed because of the amount of pre compression that both sets of bearings gives you. IT really boosts the FPS though.

I tried putting that m190 in the DMR with a bearing guide and bearing head.....it was a BEAR.

To add to what tacket said: Having both can cuase the spring to bind more than it alread would normally. Not quite sure as to why. I know when I ran it (in order to add a spacer persay) I had no problems. But I have heard it can cause bindings with the spring causing it to snap.

Originally Posted by ThompsonFTW

causing it to snap.

LOLwut? If you can find a source, please let me know. I have also heard it, but never actually seen it.