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S-Hop mod works with slight issue

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r-hop s-hop
3K views 16 replies 5 participants last post by  Guges Mk3 
#1 ·
Hello all,

So I decided to S-Hop my krytac CRB barrel using sugru, moldable glue to create a patch in the barrel window. Its internally stock with a madbull 363mm tightbore. I followed an S-Hop mod tutorial on YouTube and users advised they had success. Dremmeled down my g&g bucking and installed a modify flat hop nub. I also sealed the bucking to the barrel with Teflon tape. Took it out to the field last weekend and ran .28 bb's. I definitely got more range and accuracy, could hit targets at 80ish or so yards fairly easily, with one drawback. My stock krytac rotary hopup is set to 1...and I'm still overhopping slightly.
Before I reassembled the gun, I checked my work and I didn't see the hopup patch blocking the inner barrel at all with the hopup unit all the way down...it looked really flush.
I read somewhere that krytac hopups don't take well to r-hop/S-Hop mods. I went ahead and ordered a maxx hopup unit and some heavier bb's (.32g). I was wondering if anyone had any other ideas or input for me to try and or adjust?

Thanks,
Pain
 
#2 ·
Yeah, two words.

Maple Leaf

Slip in simplicity, ranges to ~90 with the right mix of bbs and no fussing with all that R/S (letter) mods. Also allows you to use various weight bbs.

Maxx will not help you with your issue. Maxx and Krytac stock HUU is eseentially the same. Your issue is your patch and it's catching the bb.

Much like a wheel on a car. You are swapping rims, when the issue is with the tire.

For your setup it's just fine tuning now and a lot of experimentation. Sounds like you need to sand your packing/rubber/bucking more and perhaps shave the nub. I would do the packing first and then the nub, if you want to keep using your S-Hop.
 
#9 ·
The thing with maple leaf is the barrel's packing alignment slot must be perfect.

I've found with even high end barrels like lambda, pdi, and laylex they literally can not machine the slot accurately, leaving it off a few degrees which then makes the "patch" of the maple leaf packing sit off to the left or right. Even if the window is set to be perfectly aligned with the hop up unit.
This causes side to side drift.

But if the barrel alignment slot is machined correctly this isn't an issue and the maple leaf packings actually work fantastic.

I prefer flat hopping. As its less finicky and picky than any other hopup. If the barrel is off is a few degrees in rotation or if the alignment slot is off by a few degrees, it still will apply an even hop to the bb, level to the hop up and hopefully the aeg as well.

That Maxx hop up with the special arm it comes with is absolutely ideal for a r or s hop, it will apply a perfect even pressure to the whole patch. I haven't owned a krytac but I doubt its stock hop up unit is top tier compared to some cnced options out there.
 
#4 ·
Rounds down isn't going to do it. Well not unless you put through 50K in medium polish bbs.

The only thing you can immediately do is reduce the friction and you can do that by oiling the patch...but I highly DO NOT recommend that...
 
#12 ·
So my Maxxhop unit came in. Unfortunately I'm busy with work until the weekend so I haven't gotten around to installing it yet. However, I did read through the instruction manual it came with. The manual states that included with the package is a "6mm r-hop nub" and having the option to install it or not. In my current setup I'm running a Modify flat nub. Anyone have any recommendations or techniques to tell which nub would be best? I have some silicone tubing arriving in the mail today and I plan on making a r-hop patch out of it, I'll just scratch the sugru idea and go with something more stable.
 
#16 ·
LOL Too late! Last night after work I couldn't keep my tinkering hands off of it. Specifically, I wanted to examine the "4.5mm r-hop nub" that came standard already in the unit. You can use your imagination for the combination of words I used when the hopup arm springs fell to the ground on dark tile lol

All is well though, I located the spring played around with it a bit and put it back together with a new relatively healthy understanding on how it works.

I do have one question about the setup though. In the foam packaging is the hopup unit, c-clamp and barrel spring. I understand where all those go and how they work. However, there's also this thin brass circle, almost looks like a washer with a ridge on one end and it's accompanied with a tiny black o-ring. Instructions weren't super clear on where that goes or how to install it. It looks like it's suppose to go over the barrel and push up against the hopup unit where the barrel meets the chamber?
 
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