AAP-01 semi auto issue.

Discussion in 'Gas Powered Guns' started by Airsoft_Leviathan, Sep 3, 2021.

  1. So I picked up an AAP-01 about 6 months ago, and have been attaching mostly cosmetic pieces, with a few internal replacements. I bought a stronger short stroke spring and a very strong nozzle spring, as well as a few of the smaller shims from a short stroke kit. With these installed, I attempted to shoot in semi automatic. However, it fired in full auto. I checked the selector, and it was definitely supposed to be shooting one bb at a time. When I looked inside; it was obvious that the hammer had snapped. Fast forward a month later, I purchase a new CNC steel hammer replacement. After having installed that, I test the pistol again and have the same issue. So I removed all of the short stroke kit and nozzle spring, and yet again it was still having the same issue. I’m at a loss, even with a new hammer and the rest of the gun being stock the gun refuses to fire on semi auto. I’ve assembled and disassembled this thing a couple of times now, and I can’t figure out what part of the mechanism is failing. I was wondering if anyone on here had any ideas. Or maybe someone has had a similar experience with AAP-01s. Either way, at this point I can’t recommend this gun as a platform. It has failed in a couple major ways that just don’t make it worth it against a hi capa build or a Glock build. Thank you for your time!
     
  2. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    You removed "everything"? All springs and shims?
     

  3. Correct. I removed all the shims from the short stroke kit, and reinstalled the stock springs for the recoil and nozzle spring.
     
  4. Wessel van Oevelen

    Wessel van Oevelen New Member

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    Hey @Airsoft_Leviathan , I got the same problem. after installing a short stroke kit. my hammer broke. replaced it for a cowcow hammer set. but still have the problem. did u find already find the problem? Would like to get in contact with u. So i can fix it!
     
  5. Unfortunately I put the project aside for the time being. A friend of mine who is a (very) amateur tech theorized that it might be fixed by shaving down the hammer and using a 8mm or 9mm bearing instead of that weird heart shaped piece. I think what’s happening is that the hammer is not coming down all the way from the blowback because of my bolt being worn down. In which case, my friend would be correct. In the mean time I’ve been working on my two DMR builds because I’m a glutton for punishment.
     
  6. Graybeard

    Graybeard Active Member

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    Oooh, DMR builds?
     
  7. Yeah, I’m not much of a tech myself. But being young and stupid, I started an M14 build a couple years ago, and have had loads of trouble working it into a DMR. The biggest issue I had was definitely finding a motor, since TM spec M14s use a proprietary motor cage that requires you to be able to remove and reattach the pinion gear so that you can remove the motor shroud. The Lonex motor I bought had a O type pinion gear which means it is pressed on by Superman. Since pinion pullers were of short supply at the time, I made my own using a giant nut that I had tapped on one side and filed down on the other side. I then sacrificed a long drill bit that was as narrow as the motor shaft, and inserted that into a bored out screw. Even with this monstrosity I was unable to get the pinion gear off of the Lonex motor, and in the process I managed to completely destroy the Lonex motor. So I looked for a motor that had a D type pinion gear, and landed on SHS. Definitely quite lack luster compared to many other high torque motors, but I got the pinion gear off!

    Since CYMA hard soldiers all of their motors, I had to buy some motor connections. This is especially important since the motor is in the motor cage with a terminal on each side, meaning that when you have a mosfet attached like my Gate Warfet, you would have to desolder every time you wanted to take the motor out (audibly gags).

    When I started the build I used a lot of budget parts, but now that I actually make decent money I’m regretting a lot of my purchase decisions. I bought pretty much all Guarder parts for inside the gearbox, and since I’m not using a strong spring by any means, with basic tuning and some DIY mods I should be able to get it to work pretty well. (However this is probably all stuff I could have done with the stock parts, lol.)

    Since the M14 cylinder to barrel volume ratio is completely effed (I like long guns at my own detriment), I had to use a TBB, and I decided to go with ZCI since it was, well, cheap and available. I R-hopped the barrel, flat hopped the prommy purple, and tried to make an M nub since the M14 hopup is flipping tiny. I did a good job filing down the hop arm, but I did a lousy job cutting my eraser. I think I’ll just buy a new hopup unit and try out that maple leaf omega nub everyone talks about. After seeing one in person it seems like I can probably get it to fit inside my hopup.

    After fielding the rifle for the first time I realized immediately that I will never be a bipod kinda player. Not only does it add unnecessary weight to what’s supposed to be a very mobile player, my terrain is completely hostile to laying prone.

    The scope I bought is a Feyachi 2-7x scope, which has the perfect eye relief and is crystal clear. Plus it’s uber cheap so I’m not to worried about beating it up. The only issue is that there is no kill flash designed for this size of lens, so I need to find a good way to protect the lens of the scope that’s more DIY. I’m not a big fan of those lens protectors that are mounted to the rail since they don’t protect against all shots. Plus I literally have no more rail to mount it on.

    The other gun I bought was the CYMA platinum SR-25 (really I got just the normal AR-10 model) with the 16” barrel. I only decided to get this gun just because the dope looking polymer mid caps were in stock for the first time in what seemed like years, and I took it as a sign from God.

    First off, the externals of this gun are just spectacular. Unbelievable. Brilliant. I’ve heard people complain about the stock being wobbly, but everything about the one I got was rock solid.

    Internals of the gun were to be expected, pretty disappointing. I’m sure with proper tuning there is a lot you can do to make this gun work even better, but I could tell right off the bat that the motor was not as powerful as I would like it to be. Plus I know that the CYMA trigger board mosfet has a very limited lifespan. Knowing all this and knowing that even with the extended V2 gearbox the gun will still be massively undervolumed for the bbs I will be using and the 509mm barrel, I’m very tempted to run an HPA engine.

    If I were to run HPA, I would have a very specific set of requirements for what I used.

    1. No polarstar. My field doesn’t allow polarstar engines in the DMR class (which is honestly not going to solve anything, but what can you do)

    2. No electronics. Despite the electronics of many HPA engines making them way more adjustable and user friendly, I wanted to avoid one of the shortcomings of an AEG, susceptibility to water. My ideal HPA setup should in theory be able to be completely submerged in water and completely recovered fully functional (after a good cleaning)

    3. Available nozzle adapter that allows me to use it in an SR-25.

    The main reason I’m looking at HPA is the idea of cost vs benefit. The mosfet replacement alone is over half the cost of a decent HPA engine; and to get the SR-25 gearbox to function decently it would take a LOT more than just a mosfet. And the benefits of a good HPA engine are simply unmatched. The ability to have proper air volume in a long barreled rifle allows me to use the rifle that I want without sacrificing accuracy. Besides with HPA it is (typically) way simpler to achieve consistent shot to shot energy output with an HPA setup than an AEG.

    Well, that is the story of my DMR builds.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2021
  8. danerd

    danerd Well-Known Member

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  9. I have looked at your thread before and it was very insightful. Cosmetically I took a very different direction, going for a 2003 Marine DMR M21 rather than the classic M21 sport style stock. So far I have found that although the hopup is plastic and much smaller than normal, the stock hopup performs surprisingly ok. All that needed to be changed was the packing. The stock barrel was narrower than both of the aftermarket barrels I have put in the gun, and that absolutely worked to my advantage. The current ZCI barrel didn’t need any shimming in the outer barrel.

    Although the version 7 gearbox is under volumed for the barrel it is paired with, the V7 is absolutely my favorite gearbox to work on (barring any with quick change spring systems.) I like that unlike the V2 or the V3 the wiring and trigger mechanism is entirely external. It allows me to tinker more with isolated parts.

    Side note, you have commented on both of my threads about my M14.
     
  10. Graybeard

    Graybeard Active Member

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    Why doesn’t your field allow specifically PolarStar Engines in the DMR class?
     
  11. I think it’s because polarstar was the first platform associated with ease of FPS and RPS change, but in reality that’s just a caveat of using HPA systems. To be honest, I know next to nothing about HPA. Graybeard, you seem to do your fair share of HPA. Would you recommend the Redline N7 milsim as a good starter HPA for putting in a CYMA SR-25? I know redline makes an SR-25 nozzle, and the system seems basic since it’s entirely mechanical. Plus it should be completely water resistant unlike electrical FCU’s. I am comfortable with gearbox work, but I still don’t want to get too crazy complicated with a new system I’m unfamiliar with. I just want to solve my voluming issue without using a polarstar engine.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2021
  12. Graybeard

    Graybeard Active Member

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    My first HPA build, I bought the N7milsim gen 1(the N7 comes in an FCU and the Milsim version) because it didn’t have any electronics to it. At the time, it was the only one I knew existed. It only has two moving parts in it, the pneumatic trigger and the valve inside the engine. It was also my first time in a gearbox. Easy enough, as you just dump all the internals except the trigger. The box did have a structural support post that had to be cut out. I was using the Wolverine Wraith stock at the time too, so I had to cut a portion of the rr of the box for the fittings of the Wraith. If you are going to run it on an external air source, the hose to the engine will fit through the bottom of the box into the grip w/o modifying.

    The first setup of the gun worked well, but the 12g CO2 cartridge only gave about 200 rounds before it needed to be changed. The quickchange system worked, but it was finicky to setup and when I switched brands of cartridges, I had to set it up all over again. I picked up the 33g adaptor for it, and that made the gun usable in a game. It gives me ≈500 rounds per, pretty comprable to a 13/3000 bottle. It will allow the use of different stocks and is lighter than the bottle.

    At the same time I purchased the 33g adaptor, I started my DMR build with the P* Kythera and the UGS stock. It gave me the opportunity to compare them. Performance and efficiency is on par with each other. I liked the flexibility of the UGS over the Wraith, and switched out the wraith for it. But the performance of the redline is still on par, just a pneumatic vale as the trigger instead of a mechanical trigger. It’s similar in pull to an aeg, no noticeable break/set. Both systems are quiet.

    Redline does have their HPA stock too, but I don’t have any experience with it. I know it has the regulator, but don’t know its performance or how it operates.

    In short, I think the N7Milsim is a good engine to start with. Easy to install, and easy to maintain. CO2 is dirtier than air, so if you go that way, then you will need to increase the frequency of cleaning, still not as often as GBB systems though. Hope that was helpful….
     
  13. That is very informative. I will be running a line from the grip to a tank on my back, so I won’t be *too* limited in air supply. I know that there will be a rough learning curve on learning HPA systems, but I’m confident I can get it figured out in the SR-25. Plus I have a friend who does HPA on his gas pistols, so I can ask him about regulators and tanks and all that. Thanks for the input!
     
  14. Graybeard

    Graybeard Active Member

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    Wolverine does have a dual source kit, if you decide to go the wraith rout too. It’s a t fitting that has a stop valve in it. So you can run the CO2 stock or the grip line. Gives you options.

    I wouldn’t say it’s a rough learning curve though(or maybe I got lucky). Especially when you’re running a ‘milsim’ setup. There’s no batteries or wiring and no FCU to figure out how to program. With the Redline, there’s no dwell setting. The nozzle only releases back to close when you let go of the trigger. Both my builds were pretty painless. Not a lot of issues to sort…