[Chow]

An In-Depth Tutorial And Write-Up On The DIY Flat-Hop
-
A Write-up Styled Tutorial From Start To Finish Regarding The DIY Flat-Hop And Tuning Of The Hop-Up.

As Written And Described By Chow On The AirsoftSociety Forums
Written From 3-14-2017 Through 8-3-2017

Write-up And Pictures Have Been Created By Chow​

Preface:​

Good day all,

I have not made this write-up in order to replace anyone else's tutorial on this or other forums. This write-up is simply a tutorial on what I have learned in the past on the DIY Flat-hop, how I Flat-hop my replicas, what materials I use, pre-/post- installation Hop-up tuning, and a thread that I can link to other people that don't know where to start when it comes to the Flat-hop or simply increasing their range from a different perspective. Most other tutorials that I have seen will only go over a section when it comes to a DIY Flat-hop installation or the tuning of the Hop-up, and will leave out important details. In short, they all seem very incomplete and lacking in certain content which leaves the novice having to piece together various tutorials for information. For the most part, I have used this write-up for myself just by accessing it from my PC on a document. However, I have been receiving more questions as of late regarding range/accuracy upgrades and it would be easier for me to just send them this link with the full write-up and pictures.

As such, this write-up will be a tutorial from start to finish. It will address various questions throughout this thread that I had when I first taught myself how to Flat-Hop. I will be taking a stock airsoft replica to start from and will end when everything that I know of regarding the Flat-Hop is complete. It probably doesn't even need to be said, but I will also be tuning the Hop-up as well by the time I start and am finished. There will also be a wide selection of pictures that I will link to this Forum which will detail exactly what I am doing. As we all have seen recently with PhotoBuckets new "policy" change, I will also be uploading the pictures directly to the Forum as well in case Imgur decides to follow PhotoBuckets poor example. I apologize if the pictures at the bottom of each post get cluttered, but I would like to keep them there for the sake of longevity.

Just to emphasize, This write-up will be on how I create and install DIY Flat-hops on my replicas. The material I use and the way I do it may be different than what others have done. The way I do it and the materials I use are there for reasons, Which I will explain during each step. Therefore, I request that you do you due research into this subject and compare other peoples tutorials before attempting this yourself.

It is also worthy to note that this is a full tutorial on the DIY Flat-Hop. As much as I wish that I could create a tutorial regarding every aspect and a full comparison of the Flat-Hop including store-bought Buckings, Nubs, etc. I simply cannot due to time and money restraints. As such, I will try my best to make it clear that this is a do-it-yourself Flat-Hop tutorial and I will shy away from talking about subjects or products that I do not use or have not used.

For ethical reasons, I will disclose that I do not have hands-on experience with other forms of Hop-up modifications such as the R-Hop and I may come off as being biased towards the Flat-Hop. I have, however, thoroughly researched and installed DIY Flat-Hops in many of my airsoft replicas and other airsoft replicas for friends. I am always learning and am still perfecting the Flat-Hops that I install using various methods, but I have come a long way from my first installation and I believe that I can make a credible tutorial on the subject.

For this tutorial, I will be using a stock Hop-up from a brand new out of the box Cyma CM-048 AK-74 airsoft replica. Most of the same principles that will be shown in this writeup can be carried over to other replica variants. I will have a section near the end where I will go over something specific to the AK though. All of the materials and tools that I use will be properly linked and I will update them as times goes on.

Lastly, to make this Write-up easier to read for both you and myself (It is currently over 5600 words long) and to stay within the Forums character limit, I will be splitting it up into different posts. If you see one of these posts that doesn't have any content in it, it is there for future updates and it will be filled in soon.

What Is A Flat-hop? Why Should You Do It? And Why I Would Recommend It?​

With a stock set-up, your Bucking will have a mound on the inside of it that will produce Hop when you adjust your Hop-up. When you Flat-hop it, you will be removing this mound along with a ridge within the Bucking, thus creating a Flat surface on the inside of the Bucking that will create a much better contact surface. However, it does not end with that. Because your stock Nub will be too small to use anymore, you will be creating a new one to replace the stock one with. In the end, when you adjust your Hop-up and shoot your replica, the BB will make contact with this new Flat surface that will generate a much smoother, reliable, and effective back-spin than what your stock one would have had.

Why would you do it and why would I recommend it? I believe that installing a DIY Flat-hop in your replica is the one of the easiest and most inexpensive ways to effectively improve your range, accuracy, and groupings. If your stock replica can only shoot out to 100ft. - 120ft. and you are wanting more out of it, then consider installing a Flat-hop and tuning your Hop-up before replacing major parts in your replica.

Creating and installing a DIY Flat-Hop in your airsoft replica will permanently alter some parts within your Hop-up unit and may test your patience. However, the payoff of your work is well worth it when you see immediate results in your range, accuracy, and groupings if done right.

Before Starting:​

It is my full recommendation that you research this topic as best as you can. There may be some methods that I use that others may not. It is up to you to decide what methods of Flat-Hopping you use and whether or not you apply just this tutorial to your Hop-up, or a mix of methods that you have thoroughly researched.

I also ask that you make sure that your replica is in working order before taking apart the Hop-up. I will explain more later, but it is for good reason that I ask this.

Lastly, You need to do research into the types of BB's that you are using. If you have an average replica that shoots at an average FPS, you need to really consider using high quality and heavier weight BB's for use with the Flat-Hop. At the time of writing this, I am using GoldenBall 0.28g Bio BB's. For my situation, they work well for me and comply with my local fields rules. Depending on the final setup of this replica, I might go ahead and look at picking up some heavier weight BB's soon.

Required Parts And Tools:​

Required: Rubbing Alcohol Swabs
Required: Microfiber Cloth
Required: Cleaning Rod
Required: Fine Grit Sandpaper
Required: Basic tools (Screwdriver, pliers, cloth, flashlight, pen, etc.)
Required: Razor
Required: Sorbothane
Required: Superglue
Required: Bic Pen Tube
Required: Patience
Required: Teflon/Plumbers Tape
Required: Dental Floss
Required: SuperLube

The Pre-Installation Section Will Be In The Next Post​

 

[Chow]

Pre-Installation:​

​

One of the first things that you must make sure of is that your airsoft replica is working properly before opening it up. You need to be sure that it is not having any feeding issues, major compression loss, or other major problems. You don't want to finish up installing a Flat-hop and tuning your Hop-up only for a pre-existing problem to resurface. If that were to happen, you would question the validity of your work on the Hop-up and have to spend more time diagnosing what the root cause of your issue is. Thus, you need to use your airsoft replica first before continuing to ensure that it works as it should.

You are also going to have to decide as to whether or not you want to buy a new Bucking or reuse the stock one. For the first time doing this, I would recommend using the stock one in case it gets torn. However, You can feel free to use a new Bucking if you so wish. For this tutorial, I will be using the stock Bucking.

To start with, you are going to have to have just the Barrel and Hop-up Assembly on your work area. You will have to do some basic pre-installation work before getting to the Flat-hop.

1. First, go ahead and disassemble the Barrel and Hop-up from one another and set all the pieces aside. Take your Rubbing Alcohol Swabs, put them on the cleaning rod and thoroughly clean out any dirt, dust, or debris from your Inner Barrel. You are trying to put an exquisite shine on the inside of the Barrel, so take your time doing this and make sure it gets clean. When you believe that it looks good, attach the small piece of microfiber cloth to the Cleaning Rod and use it in the Barrel for another minute or so. Once done, set aside your Inner Barrel.

​

NOTE: Only do this once the Inner Barrel is completely separate from the rest of the Hop-up parts. You do not want to get Rubbing Alcohol on the Bucking as it can cause it to become brittle over time or potentially get scuffed up.

​

2. Using a slightly damp paper cloth or the Cleaning Rod again, clean out the inside of the Hop-up Chamber and get any dirt/grime out. Once done, dry it out using a clean cloth and set it out to finish air-drying.

​

3. Take your stock cylinder shaped Nub and set it aside for now.

​

4. Take your stock Bucking and thoroughly clean it using warm, soapy water. Make sure that any dirt, oil, and debris is cleaned out of the outside and inside of it. NOTE: If you are using a brand new Bucking, You can disregard this step.

​

5. Separate all of your parts regarding your Hop-up and set them aside. Leave nothing on your work area except for your Bucking.

​

The Next Section Will Come Next!​

 

[Chow]

Installation Part 1 - Modifying The Bucking:​

This part is essential. You will be modifying the Bucking by sanding off material on it to create a smooth and flat surface on the inside of it.

As of right now, you should just have your Bucking on your work area. Go ahead and get some pliers and some Sanding Paper out as well. Concerning the grit of the Sandpaper, I would recommend using more of a fine Sandpaper. Typically, I like to use a 220 grit Sandpaper. It may take a little more time to take off the amount of material from the Bucking, but I have yet to rip or tear any of my Buckings.

It is possible to use other means to shave off the ridge and the mound on the Bucking. However, I feel that using sandpaper gives you more control over what you're doing and minimizes mistakes that can rip or tear you Bucking.

1. Take the pliers and carefully use them to invert the Bucking inside out. You are going to now use the Sandpaper and sand off both the ridge and the mound on the Bucking. Be careful when doing this so you do not rip the Bucking. After you have finished sanding off both the ridge and the mound, you will want to take a close look and ensure that you have taken off enough material so that it will not cause any protrusions when it's back on the Barrel.

NOTE: The best and easiest way to sand off the material on the Bucking is to re-install the inverted Bucking on the end of your Barrel and work from there. Doing it like this will greatly help you to take off the correct amount of material and provide a stable platform to sand on.

​

2. Wash the Bucking off in warm, soapy water after you're done sanding and make sure that there are no loose particles on it. Then, take a clean cloth and thoroughly dry it off.

​

3. Go ahead and carefully invert it again back to its normal state by using the pliers. After that, pull the Barrel back out onto your work area.

​

4. Take the Bucking and fit it onto the Barrel. Again, you need to make sure that there are no protrusions showing anywhere on the inside or outside of the Barrel. If there are, mark the location on the Bucking causing it and go through these steps again until it is smooth.

​

5. This step is very important. You need to take note that the Bucking will need to be installed at a 90 degree angle than what it normally is from this point on. The reason for this is so that a smooth area on the inside of the Bucking will make contact with the BB through the Hop-up window when it is all put back together. You do not want one of the rough spots that you just sanded to make this contact, as that will cause inconsistencies with the BB's path.

NOTE: To make it easier to see what angle you need to put the Bucking on, you can use a Marker/Pen to make a line on the outside of the Bucking to indicate a smooth section on it. You can use whatever color you want, but make sure that it is slightly visible against the color of the Bucking that you're using.

6. You are now done with this part. Go ahead and put away your Barrel and Bucking and pull out the Sorbothane.

​

Creating The New Nub Is The Next Part!​

 

[Chow]

Installation Part 2 - Creating Your New Nub:​

This is a longer section that will take some time.

Sorbothane is the material that I normally use to correct the Angle of Engagement (AOE) within the Gearbox. However, I have found it to be an excellent material for use as a Nub inside of the Hop-up. For most of the Flat-hops that I have installed, I typically used a Pink Eraser as a Nub material. However, The 95+ degree Texas heat proved too much for them and they melted in all of the airsoft replicas that I used on that specific field day.

It is for this reason that I have switched over to Sorbothane. I have not had any issues with it and it works exceptionally well for this application. It also doesn't melt, which is a major plus for me.

I will also be using the inner tube out of a Bic Pen to use as a way of holding the Nub onto the Hop-up Arm. I will explain better down below.

For this part, go ahead and get out your Sorbothane, Razor Blade, Bic Pen Tube, and Superglue and set them on your work area.

You will need patience for this part as it will require trial and error.

1. The first step that you need to take is to grab the inner tube out of the Bic Pen and measure a section on the end of it against your stock cylinder shaped Nubs length. Once it is measured out to be the same length, cut it cleanly by using the Razor. This cut piece of inner tube will now need to be cut vertically in half. In order to do so, place it inside of the Hop-up Arm that normally holds the stock Nub and measure it to be slightly longer than that of the Arm. Using those measurements, vertically cut it and make sure that it's cut as straight as possible. Once you are finished, go ahead and set it aside. NOTE: If you're having problems making a straight cut, you can use some of the sandpaper to even it out some. Just don't take off too much material.

​

2. You will now need to cut a piece of Sorbothane to fit inside of the Hop-up Window. Take the Razor and eye out an estimate of what size and width your new Nub should be and make the cut. You will want to preserve the bottom of the piece of Sorbothane (The flattest and smoothest section) which will be the section that presses down on the Bucking. Once you believe that it's sized correctly and relatively even, place the Bic Pen Tube that you just cut down on the top of the cut Sorbothane inside of the assembled Hop-up window. Position the Hop-up Arm to make contact with your partially-built Nub and quickly rebuild the Hop-up onto the Barrel.

​

3. At this point, you will need to do some preliminary testing of your partially-built Nub by trial and error. Now that the Hop-up is rebuilt, go ahead and adjust the Hop-up to see how much pressure the partially-built Nub applies onto the Bucking. The easiest way to do this is to look down the back end of the Barrel and actively adjust the Hop-up on and off. You don't want it to apply too much pressure as that will cause too much Hop to be applied or failure to fire. Otherwise, If it's not enough pressure, it won't be able to Hop BB's at all which you don't want. If you see that it needs to be re-done, go ahead and make another one by restarting from step 2. If it looks good, then take it all apart again and keep the partially-built Nub on your work area.

Typically, on the Nubs that I make, I like to size them so that they will produce very little to no Hop when turned on from 0% to 25%+, Then produce the correct amount of Hop when turned on by about 25% to 60%+, and then have it create even more Hop when it's turned on past 60%+. For me, this works great as I have the ability to adjust it to how I need it when I get to the field. Nothing is more disappointing than getting to the field and having your replica not produce enough Hop for longer distances.

NOTE: You also need to keep BB weights in mind as well. If you are using lighter BB's (0.20g - 0.23g), then you will have to adjust the amount of pressure that is applied onto the Bucking. In the case of using a lighter weight, you would need to take off some material from the Sorbothane so that it does not over-Hop the BB's. Likewise, if you are using heavier BB's, be sure to size the Nub accordingly.

4. Now then, you need to do some more testing by making sure that your Nub is as level and even as you can possibly get it. The best way to do this is to set the cut piece of Sorbothane and cut piece of Tube on a flat, level surface and eye it carefully to make sure it's level. You can also invest in a cheap bubble level tool to see if it is level. If it is not level, you are going to have issues later on as it will cause your surface area to be uneven when the Hop is turned on. So be sure that it looks good now before continuing on.

5. It's time to test it again. Go through and rebuild the partially-built Nub and the Barrel/Hop-up like you did in step 3. Then, adjust the Hop-up again to see how much pressure the partially-built Nub applies onto the Bucking. If it still looks good, applies the correct amount of Hop, and is as level as you can get, then continue on to step 6.

6. This is one of the final parts before you are done with your Nub. You are going to Superglue the cut piece of Tube onto the cut piece of Sorbothane just like you have been testing with. There isn't any best way to do this, you just need to be careful to ensure that it lines up properly and is level. Once it has been glued, make sure it fully dries. If it all looks good, go ahead and install it back onto the Hop-up Arm and rebuild the Hop-up.

​

7. Finally, adjust the Hop-up to see how much pressure the finished Nub applies onto the Bucking. Make sure that it is even when looking down the end of the Barrel and that it applies the amount of Hop that you need. It is completely possible that something messed up somewhere and it needs to be rebuilt. Just remember that it does get easier each time you do it and you will make continual progress. Otherwise though, it should look good and work fine.

​

8. Now that your Nub is completely finished, go ahead and take everything apart again and set it all aside.

Final Note: There are different methods that require the Hop-up Arm to be modified/sanded so that it will become a flat surface for the Nub to be glued onto. However, I do not like this method and prefer not to permanently alter the Hop-up Arm. Rather, I like to preserve the Hop-up Arm and do it the way I described. If the Nub is built like it is shown in the pictures, it will still maintain a stable surface when seated within the Hop-up Arm.

Tuning Your Hop-up Is Next!​

 

[Chow]

Installation Part 3 - Rebuilding And Tuning Your Hop-up:​

Now that your Bucking and Nub are finished, it is time to rebuild and tune your Hop-up/Barrel assembly.

It is extremely important to make sure that you line everything up properly when rebuilding the Hop-up. Especially the Barrel Window, Bucking, and Nub alignment. Remember what I noted back when you were working on your Bucking? "You need to take note that the Bucking will need to be installed at a 90 degree angle than what it normally is from this point on." It is imperative that a smooth section on the inside of the Bucking makes the contact with the BB. If one of the sanded spots makes the contact, you will compromise your accuracy and your groupings will not be as tight as they need to be.

This part can take some time and patience, but it will become easier each time you do it. I will also sound like a broken record regarding alignment, but it is for good reason.

Go ahead and get out all of the parts regarding the Hop-up assembly and your Barrel. You will also need some Dental Floss, Teflon/Plumbers Tape, and more Rubbing Alcohol Pads at this point.

1. At the end of your Barrel, take a Rubbing Alcohol Pad and clean off this section of the Barrel once more. Once your done, let it dry for a couple more seconds before the next step.

​

2. Install the Bucking at a 90 degree angle than what it normally is. You can make sure it's installed correctly by taking a flashlight and looking in the Barrel at the underside of the Bucking to ensure it's a smooth section that will make contact with the BB. After this step, you will have to continuously check to make sure that it has not rotated at all. However, it will be less likely to rotate after the next couple of steps.

It's also imperative that the Bucking is installed correctly on the Barrel. You do not want the edge that seals around the end of the Barrel to either be hanging off of the Barrel or to creep its way up the Barrel.

3. At this point, you will need to take your Dental Floss and carefully, but tightly wrap it twice around the front-end of the Bucking. Cut off any loose ends once you have it tied off. Doing this will help seal up air leaks, but more importantly it will help keep the Bucking from rotating around. Continue on when you have finished this step.

​

4. Pull out your Teflon/Plumbers Tape and wrap two layers around the same area that you just applied the Dental Floss to. Try to avoid wrapping it around the two indentations that are used for the C-clamp. Once again, this will further decrease the amount of air leakage and will help keep the Bucking in the same place.

​

5. Make sure at this point that the Bucking is at the same place. It is possible that it has rotated during the past couple of steps. If it has, go back and readjust it so that a smooth section on the inside of the Bucking will make the contact with the BB. If it looks good, the move on to the next step.

6. Carefully install the Hop-up Chamber onto the Barrel/Bucking. Again, you need to take special care that you do not rotate the Bucking during this step. When the Hop-up Chamber is on, use a flashlight and look on the inside of the Barrel Window one more time to make sure the Bucking is in the same place.

NOTE: If you're having issues with the Hop-up Chamber fitting over the Bucking, try putting an extremely small amount of Synthetic Grease (I use SuperLube) on the outside of the Bucking.

7. If it all looks good, proceed to line up the Hop-up Chamber to the Barrel Window. This may strain your eyes some, but you will need to continue using the flashlight to look inside the Barrel Window whilst lining it up to the middle of the Hop-up Chamber. It is very important that it is perfectly lined up, or else it will cause major inconsistencies and issues with your BB's flight path.

When it is lined up properly, take the C-clamp and attach it to the Hop-up. It is possible that this will slightly throw off your alignment, so check it once more to guarantee that it is lined up as it should be.

8. Go now and install your newly made Nub inside of the Hop-up Arm and lower the Hop-up Arm down into the Assembly. Install the adjustment lever and adjust the Hop-up on and off while looking down the start of the Barrel. You will want to make sure that everything is correctly lined up before going any further. This will be one of the last times that you have the chance to check this before closing up, so make sure it's done right. If something is not aligned properly, see what is causing it and fix it.

​

9. Given that it's lined up as best as you can get it and the Nub is applying the correct balance of pressure onto the Bucking, you need to now finish assembling the Hop-up and Barrel accordingly.

Trouble-Shooting And Post-Installation Is The Next Part!​

 

[Chow]

Post-Installation - Testing And Example Problems - Closing:​

At this point, you should have your Hop-up Assembly and Barrel all put back together. You will now need to reinstall it into your specific airsoft replica. I will not go over this aspect as you should know how to do this yourself regarding your own replica.

In the end, the replicas that I perform this DIY Flat-hop to will see an effective range of at least 175ft. However, when using the right BB's with a clean Flat-hop install, I have shot well past 200ft. before with good range and accuracy.

With your airsoft replica fully reassembled, you will need to do some basic testing with it to make sure that it's working well for your specific needs.

It is important to remember what I said in the Pre-Installation section: "One of the first things that you must make sure of is that your airsoft replica is working properly before opening it up. You need to be sure that it is not having any feeding issues, major compression loss, or other major problems. You don't want to finish up installing a Flat-hop and tuning your Hop-up only for a pre-existing problem to resurface. If that were to happen, you would question the validity of your work on the Hop-up and have to spend more time diagnosing what the root cause of your issue is."

I trust that you heeded those words as it will make this section much easier for you if you do run into any issues.

There are also some topics such as Barrel suck, Barrel to Cylinder ratio, and Barrel type/length/quality that you need to research on if it applies to you. Because these issues are more user-exclusive with their own specific set-ups, I will not be covering them in this section.

As such though, I will discuss in this next section a few points that you need to be aware of that pertains to your newly installed Flat-Hop and potential issues which can be caused by a faulty installation in this specific write-up.

1. Now that you have been able to test it, you should notice a significant increase in your range, better accuracy, tighter groupings, and each shot being slightly more consistent than what it once was. Of course, there are different factors that can determine your overall improvement such as your FPS, stock air compression, stock performance, BB weight, and wind speed/direction during testing.

2. The first thing that you need to test is to make sure that your replica feeds fine. There are two main problems that can be caused by faulty feeding issues which I'll make new points for below:

The biggest issue that I've run into with feeding issues is when BB's will not feed through the Hop-up at all. This is caused by either the Nub being to large and putting too much pressure down on the Bucking or an issue with the Bucking having bunched up on a section of the Barrel/Hop-up Assembly. If this is the case, you will need to disassemble the replica again and determine what is causing the issue.

The other issue that can cause feeding issues are BB's that will sometimes shoot and sometimes not shoot. Again, this can be caused by the same reasons as described in the other example, but maybe to a lesser degree. It should be obvious, but make sure that your Hop-up is turned completely off if you're experiencing either of these feeding issues first to help diagnose your problem.

3. Once you get the chance to take it outside to formerly test it, you will need to make sure that there are no BB's being shot that veer off to either the left or right of your intended target. If this is happening to you, it is more than likely being caused by the Nub applying an off balanced pressure onto the Bucking or a misalignment within the Hop-up. In this case, it would be creating too much pressure to one side and not the other, thus causing a deviation to either the right or left of your intended target. If this is happening to you, you will have to take it apart and make sure that the internals of the Hop-up are aligned and that the new Nub is perfectly level.

4. You need to also make sure that you sized the Nub correctly with your setup. Again, BB weight is important to know as it will play a factor on whether or not the Nub is sized correctly. It should be obvious, but if your BB's are not able to lift when the Hop is gradually turned on all the way, then your Nub is not big enough. Likewise, if your BB's are being over-hopped as your Hop is gradually turned up, then your Nub is too big and needs to be re-worked to fit to your specific needs.

5. Depending on your airsoft replica, you may have issues with the Hop-up Arm maintaining a secure placement once you have it adjusted. In the case of an AK style airsoft replica, this is a real concern that can effect how long the Hop-up Arm holds the adjustment until it settles back into an off position. While this is an issue, it only messes up on the rare occasion and it should not be too much of a problem depending on your setup.

For the Hop-up within an AK, you need to make sure that screws holding the lever are in there tight. This will help the lever stay in place for as long as possible. It is also possible to use a spacer that sits within the Hop-up behind the Arm so that it cannot decrease in hop. However, tightening the screws is generally good enough to keep it in place.

6. Another issue that can arise is your groupings not being as tight as they should be. If this is happening to you, you will need to make sure that your Barrel is completely free of any dust or debris. You will also need to ensure that you rotated your Bucking 90 degrees so that a smooth section on the inside of it is making contact with the BB's. If you are still having issues with your groupings, double-check what ammo type and weight you are using and make sure it is adequate for your set-up.

Final Note: These were just some of the issues that I have run across. Hopefully, you won't have any of these or other problems. Flat-hopping can be a trial and error work in progress, but it will get easier each time you work on it!

Closing:​

It is my hope that this write-up will help someone or maybe just answer additional questions from a different perspective.

I fully welcome any and all questions, comments, or feedback.

I will try to do my best to update this write-up as time goes on with new information regarding product links, pictures, and more.

Best regards and good luck,
Chow

 

[Chow]

This post will be set aside for any future updates.

Best regards,
Chow

 

[kazuchan]

Any advice for what brands of bucking is great/good/ cheap for flat hop?

 

[Chow]

Any advice for what brands of bucking is great/good/ cheap for flat hop?

You would need to decide if you would want a standard Bucking that comes with the mound and ridge or if you would want more of a drop-in Bucking made for the Flat-Hop/R-Hop.

As my main focus of this guide was on using a stock or standard Bucking, I will shy away from talking about the drop-in versions. You would need to do some research and find which one would be the best for you and your replica if you were to go this route. You might do some research though starting with the Modify Flat-Hop Buckings.

As far as standard Buckings are concerned, there are a couple of different options. It is entirely possible to use your stock Bucking and use some of the air seal mods mentioned above to help it with air leaks. Or, you can easily purchase a new one. I have used a Maple Leaf Bucking before and never had issues with it. However, when I need to replace any of the ones in my current replicas or just to buy a new one, I will be purchasing a G&G Green Bucking for future use.

I hope that helps,
Chow

 

[kazuchan]

I concered about original style mod to flat-hop it.

G&G is good choice, already got one for flat-hop too xD.

Thanks bro!

 

[TheFallenHero]

So uh... Either I have been flathoping wrong or made my own style of hop. If so I am calling it the J-hop.

This whole time I have never made the eraser into a small nub. I have been filling essentially the whole hopup window with it to generate the longest contact patch possible. Ive been angling the top/bottom portion so it hits flat on the bucking the whole time... Not sure if my version is better or if your is. Mine does require sanding the hopup arm though.

 

[Chow]

So uh... Either I have been flathoping wrong or made my own style of hop. If so I am calling it the J-hop.

This whole time I have never made the eraser into a small nub. I have been filling essentially the whole hopup window with it to generate the longest contact patch possible. Ive been angling the top/bottom portion so it hits flat on the bucking the whole time... Not sure if my version is better or if your is. Mine does require sanding the hopup arm though.

One of my main intentions for this write-up was to present a way of flat-hopping that others could use as a reference or as a comparison. I would not at all say that the way I do it is the correct or preferred way to flat-hop, because I believe there are several different methods to install a flat-hop.

Over the course of the past one to two years, I have read up on several different methods that people have installed flat-hops, including the way you described. For the way I install flat-hops, I took bits and pieces from different tutorials I found over that time period and created what works best for me, which is what is shown in this write-up. The install that you described is a flat-hop as far as I know. One of the reasons that I shy away from sanding the hop-ups arm is that I have always been cautious about permanently altering the arm in particular.

My hope is that when people read this write-up, they can compare it to other tutorials found on the internet and decide which flat-hop install is the best for them and their replica.

I hope that helps!

Best regards,
Chow

 

[TheFallenHero]

It would also suck to try to do that with a metal hopup arm.

Whats your aversion to sanding the hopup arm anyways? The way I do it the only upgrade you would have from there is an r-hop which would make use of that just fine. Even in your way its still better then stock and you don't plan on returning to stock right?

 

[AnotherM4Normie]

So uh... Either I have been flathoping wrong or made my own style of hop. If so I am calling it the J-hop.

This whole time I have never made the eraser into a small nub. I have been filling essentially the whole hopup window with it to generate the longest contact patch possible. Ive been angling the top/bottom portion so it hits flat on the bucking the whole time... Not sure if my version is better or if your is. Mine does require sanding the hopup arm though.

That's the traditional method of doing a flat-hop nub. Pretty hard to make a perfect nub though.

 

[Chow]

It would also suck to try to do that with a metal hopup arm.

Whats your aversion to sanding the hopup arm anyways? The way I do it the only upgrade you would have from there is an r-hop which would make use of that just fine. Even in your way its still better then stock and you don't plan on returning to stock right?

My apologies for the late reply.

One of the main reasons as to why I prefer not to sand the hop-ups arm is because I like to maintain as much/many of the stock parts as possible without permanently altering them.

While I do not intend on keeping it stock, it has been in my mindset for awhile that if there is something that could be avoided, then it can be left alone or done another way. A big worry of mine with the method you described is if the arm is sanded the wrong way, (Albeit, that would be hard to not notice with a metal arm), then you would have to make due with it or end up replacing the arm. Also, like what AnotherM4Normie said, the nub would need to be perfectly cut and level when you install it. It could just be me, but cutting sorbothane to perfectly fit and be level on the arm would be a nightmare. If need be, it would be easier for me to have re-do one of the nubs that I described versus making/re-doing the nub for your method, especially with using sorbothane as the material.

I hope that helps!

Best regards,
Chow

 

[theobz]

As always Chow is the man. Thank you for putting the time into this guide! It is the most thorough DIY flathop I have found.

 

[AnotherM4Normie]

As always Chow is the man. Thank you for putting the time into this guide! It is the most thorough DIY flathop I have found.

And it also has pictures that don't have expired hosting... and he's made them double redundant by spreading his images all over the web!

 

[walliescycle]

I think that in terms of the troubleshooting this is the best guide by far on the internet. I have found that while the steps to doing this is easy, its the back and forth of disassembling and testing new nubs that is by far the most frustrating. Having a reference to go on like this makes all the difference. Thanks!

 

[BOA_SP3CT3R]

Nice guide Chow!

 

[Lefse]

Nice guide, this seems like an easier method than the classic eraser nub. I could never really get those eraser nubs straight when cutting the thickness, should be easier with a sorbothane sheet that's already a good thickness.