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That’s probably not a bad idea. Especially since I‘m about to shave another 2-3g off the piston…
Arcturus NY06 Review and Build Thread
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This is a great feature, and badly needed in the stock AEG world. But I would rather see them do it in a non proprietary way, so you can put your own AM mosfet in.
I actually documented my struggles with an Acturus V3 swap to Gate Aster:
Installing Gate Aster In Acturus AK05
Hey all! This is my first (of hopefully many) review/guide thread, so please bear with me. I have an Acturus AK05 and loaned it to somebody last weekend for an event. With a few exceptions it is a very nice AEG, steel externals and basic but solid internals. When I got it back it sounded like a...
www.airsoftsociety.com
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Looks very similar to the one I have. They changed the gearbox shell. Mine did not have the reinforcement crinkles. Guess they had issues and changed it. Mine cracked, so that seems like a good change. They switched to a flat trigger. Mine has a standard shape trigger. Everything else seems the same. Mine had no mosfet, not sure if you added that or not. I still use that piston today. I lightened it much more than you did. I have a total weight of like 20 grams. People always say glue the rack in. I have yet to this day needed to glue a rack in. Millions and millions of combined cycles. 40 rental guns for 2+ years, 50RPS DSGs, 35RPS SSGs at 1.5 joules... I don't do many 1.8+ joule builds though. I still don't think it would matter. I tried like 15+ different types of glue on that piston, and others. Some glue will bond with the metal and not the piston, others will bond to the piston but not the metal. Name a glue, would not BOND to both. It will stick a little, but not enough that seems like it would matter. IDK when I break a piston Ill look into it some more. Not telling anyone to not do it, if it makes you feel better then do it. I got the new Jager piston for a "all the joules" build. I used a good epoxy that bonds to steel well and it acts as a wedge. The Jager piston has more surface area for the glue as well. If anyone uses a specific glue and piston body, Ill check it out and test it. I made a jig to do some destructive testing.
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I agree completely—I checked for Perun compatibility and went… “Nah, just no.”This is a great feature, and badly needed in the stock AEG world. But I would rather see them do it in a non proprietary way, so you can put your own AM mosfet in.
I actually documented my struggles with an Acturus V3 swap to Gate Aster:
Installing Gate Aster In Acturus AK05
Hey all! This is my first (of hopefully many) review/guide thread, so please bear with me. I have an Acturus AK05 and loaned it to somebody last weekend for an event. With a few exceptions it is a very nice AEG, steel externals and basic but solid internals. When I got it back it sounded like a...
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Gearbox def feels really solid. I won’t be taking it past 1.5J in the foreseeable future though, so chances are it’ll never get a real stress test.
There have been some times that I should’ve glued the rack, but there were other mistakes made then as well, so the glue would’ve been more like a fail safe.
The flat trigger is kinda nice, but imo I’d rather have a normal one that’s not proprietary as all get out. It has a plastic attachment that‘s needed for the selector to work properly. I’ll add pics and dissection into my next update on the internal review.
The MOSFET comes completely stock.
My piston assembly is at 22g total right now, so not too far off, but I probably need to get it to 18 or 19 to deal with the new motor.
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If you go high speed, that'll be enough of a test hehe.
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I’ll keep it under 35 RPS. The T238 does have a neat feature that allows you to adjust motor speed via potentiometer, so I can run it at anything from 50% to 100% speed on a whim.
Going 50% w/ 13:1s sounds like an interesting trig response. build. Might not even have to SS.
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T238 33k brushless motor is 25800RPM under a 20 amp load. So running it at 80% would yield you around 25ish RPS with 13:1 gears. That is probably where I personally would run it. 100% would be 33ish RPS, which is fine I guess. Not sure your barrel length but M120 SS 3 teeth gives me around 370FPS with 300ish mm barrel, 4 teeth around 350fps, 2 teeth 390ish. Jefftron makes a mosfet for micro switch gearboxes. It replaces the stock black microswitch assembly and replaces it with the mosfet and new micro switch. It has a jumper to turn AB off, which I would do with a brushless motor. Not expensive and gets rid of the inline mosfet. Probably not much advantage other than that. The Jefftron micro switch might feel better IDK. I never got it since I replaced the shell with a VFC. Mine did not come with a mosfet, which is why I considered it. I use the micro switch that came in mine on my router table as a limit switch, lol. My shell needed trimming to fit the 13:1 gears. The top half of the shell has some curved reinforcements around the back of the spur gear. It looks like a smiley face. That is where I had to clearance for the top of the spur gear. On 13:1 gears the top of the spur gear has more teeth, which makes the diameter of the gear bigger. The shell halves wont close because the top half will hit the top of the spur gear. If it does close, the gears might be locked or hard to turn. Maybe they changed that, just look out for it.
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Quick update and a few more review items.
I’m almost done with the build portion, and I’ll post final specs then, but the issue now is that I’m still hitting PME w/ 11.1v despite having SSed the piston to below 20g. I’ve taken off about as much material as I can, so now my two backup options come into play.
I don’t want to short stroke and use and M130 since I’d prefer to keep my cylinder volume. I could just use a cylinder with shallower porting, but I’d have to get a new cylinder then as well.
So that leaves me with two options: get a lighter piston, or run it slower. The answer is that I’ll be doing both. I want to pick up a piston with a lighter base weight than 22g so I can run at full speed w/ 11.1v, but before I do, the T238 has a potentiometer that allows speed adjustment, so I’m hoping I can turn auto down to somewhere around 25 RPS and still retain the trig response from the 11.1v’s instant torque.
Once I get on a lighter piston, I should be able to run it at full speed again. I’m currently looking at either the SHS POM ultralight version, which weighs under 13g, and the Aztech piston, which clocks in at about 15g.
Here’s a of vid of the current performance, where I do forget to mention that I added the Guarder tappet: NY06 Build
I’m almost done with the build portion, and I’ll post final specs then, but the issue now is that I’m still hitting PME w/ 11.1v despite having SSed the piston to below 20g. I’ve taken off about as much material as I can, so now my two backup options come into play.
I don’t want to short stroke and use and M130 since I’d prefer to keep my cylinder volume. I could just use a cylinder with shallower porting, but I’d have to get a new cylinder then as well.
So that leaves me with two options: get a lighter piston, or run it slower. The answer is that I’ll be doing both. I want to pick up a piston with a lighter base weight than 22g so I can run at full speed w/ 11.1v, but before I do, the T238 has a potentiometer that allows speed adjustment, so I’m hoping I can turn auto down to somewhere around 25 RPS and still retain the trig response from the 11.1v’s instant torque.
Once I get on a lighter piston, I should be able to run it at full speed again. I’m currently looking at either the SHS POM ultralight version, which weighs under 13g, and the Aztech piston, which clocks in at about 15g.
Here’s a of vid of the current performance, where I do forget to mention that I added the Guarder tappet: NY06 Build
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Here is a picture. I also have a 0.3-millimeter shim under it. Even by shimming the spur gear as low as possible, it still would not work. Without trimming that part of the shell using 13:1/12:1 gears, it just won't work. Shell won't close because the spur is in the way. I just cut a slight chamfer on that area of the shell, and it has enough clearance for the shell to close and gears to spin freely.
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I had to do similar work on an old Echo1 v2 to get a 13:1 set to fit
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This all points to one thing. The gear set that went into these units were from Airsoft Gear Factory 2. of which their sets are different. I call these gear sets the Element factory, because that gear set came out as an upgrade set under the Element Brand name ~9 years ago.
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