AUG Custom build

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by Reviathon, Sep 11, 2012.

  1. Reviathon

    Reviathon New Member

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    Kent
    So I recently bought a new AUG A3 from a forum member, and so far I am loving it and it is going to be my custom gun. It is the old version of it, so the RIS is a cheap plastic and has to go, and the body needs to be replaced.

    Here is what I plan to do for modifications:

    -New Body (then I will add licensing trades and such.)
    -Paint Job (What do you guys think?)
    I might do TAN/Dark Earth, Black with a dark blue tigre, or should I just leave it all black? The RIS will not be touched.
    -Adding a custom bolt catch mechanism
    ( )I only use midcaps, but for highcap use, the circuits reset mechanism will either be in the charging handle, or a sensor in the mag well that will detect when the magazine has been removed. If people like this, I will market it onto the forum. It will be a MOSFET based circuit with. The sensors will be gated by the trigger.
    -ROF controller
    -Quick change ARES/EliteForce V3 Gearboxes

    upgrades
    TBB
    SHS14
    Aluminium piston head
    Aluminium Cylinder head w/ 70D sorbo
    MOSFET controllers
    Blowback? (Unlikely, but the ARES G36 gives me an option)

    Accessories
    Midcaps
    Red/Green-Dot w/ flip Magnifier combo
    (Grenade Launcher?)
    QD supressor for SCAR (14mm NEG)
    Green Laser
    Flashlight
    Tracer Unit

    Probably more things to come.

    I bet you're wondering why I am posting. Mainly for help and ideas.
    My main questions are opinions and such, but still helpful.

    Does anyone know where I can get a good grenade launcher for the AUG? I've looked, but couldn't find any. If no one can find any, how about a suggestion for work arounds?

    What paint job would looks best?
    1. Solid Black
    2. Black RIS with Dark Earth Body
    3. Black RIS with dark Blue Tigre spray pattern on the body.
    Those are my main ideas...
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012
  2. S0m3_0n3

    S0m3_0n3 New Member

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    so, are you making a PTW AUG? not sure about most of your questions but if you decide to upgrade to an airseal nozzle you may want to check out Tackett's post on air nozzles

    Edit:FAIL, sorry Tackett's guide
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012

  3. Reviathon

    Reviathon New Member

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    Kent
    The link took me to a CTR stock URL... But I guess you could say that. The outcome would be a PTW...
     
  4. Reviathon

    Reviathon New Member

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    Kent
    wow that really sucks. I hope JG isn't too bad about this, especially because I plan to get a metal nozzle and gluing it to my tappet plate.
     
  5. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Get a Lonex POM nozzle, they are fairly cheap and give a great airseal. Lonex makes excellent compression parts overall really. What motor are you gonna use, or does it come with one of the good JG motors? Maybe use a different piston, I've heard bad things about the teeth rack caving in on the SHS 14 teeth. I think many people will agree with me there, I'm extremely pleased with the blue Lonex pistons, and you also have the good old SHS 15 teeth piston.

    Be aware of one mechanical issue I ran into with my AUG. The motor cage is mounted at an angle and slightly off center in the length direction. This places the pinion gear dangerously close to the AR latch, and there's a risk of the AR latch and pinion gear making contact. This happened in my AUG, making it eat AR latches and pinion gears. It's easy to fix by shortening the AR latch and rounding off the pinion gear slightly. I think you can avoid modifying the pinion gear if you make the AR latch short enough.

    This is a very interesting build, I'm gonna keep an eye on this one. :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2012
  6. Reviathon

    Reviathon New Member

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    Kent
    Okay, I didn't know that bit with the SHS 14... Bummer. But I have a Lonex blue (The ten tooth right) and it is pretty beast. So I could pick up another one of those. I should have a JG Blue in it, based on the ROF I am getting at 360 FPS @11.1v. But I can either change it out for an SHS high speed, which I currently have in my MP5... Or just leave it there for now. But the SHS isn't that great efficiency wise... It is a power hog and I expect to see it draw 40+ Amps on my LiPo.

    What FPS are you running? I plan to keep mine around 400-450, occasionally 330-350, and the circuit I am putting in there should allow me to go inbetween SemiAuto only, and back to having the option of full auto, like a DMR. But I have had nozzles crack on me (in my M4 SHS M120 build) and I don't like opening up a gearbox more than I have too. Of course, aftermarket parts are usually better than stock. Will this nozzle fit my JG AUG?
     
  7. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    A Lonex AUG nozzle should do the trick, I've had very good experience with Lonex compression parts. I have to admit I'm not 100% sure what nozzle I have in my AUG, it's either a Deep Fire or ASG nozzle (Lonex rebrand). Anyway you should expect to do some tuning to get good compression, AUG's don't have the most stable internal construction. I use the Lonex A2 motor in my AUG and I'm very pleased with it, lots of torque and very efficient.

    My AUG is shooting approx. 370fps with an M120 spring. The power output is pretty stable, it has good air seal, but the barrel is simply too long for a regular AEG cylinder. It's also the stock CA barrel, It had slightly higher FPS with a Systema tightbore, but that barrel got damaged so had to put the stock barrel back in. I think I'm gonna keep the stock barrel as it's giving me the same range and actually slightly better accuracy than the Systema barrel. It has an effective range of approx. 200 feet with .28's. Would probably be a bit better with .30's, but .30's are kinda expensive hehe.
     
  8. ThompsonFTW

    ThompsonFTW New Member

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    Dayton
    I'm running mine just shy of 500fps. I would avoid the deepfire nozzle... its really short when compared to the JG nozzle. The AUG is a pain in the ___ to find the right nozzle length. From my experience element was pretty close to the original nozzle. If you get one to short you will run into airleaks and feeding problems. Also, I recommend you do the bolt mod. I wrote up a guide a while back. I'm not really sure what nortech is talking about with the barrel being to long. The JG A3 comes stock with a 495mm barrel... full cylinder will work fine with it. I'm sure I'm missing something so feel free to ask more questions.
     
  9. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I'm talking about the fact that the fps increased from 380fps to 400fps just by shortening the 509mm barrel down to 450mm. The cylinder volume is simply slightly too low for a 509mm barrel. Based on that I conclude that a 509mm barrel is slightly too long for a regular length un-ported cylinder and that 450mm is a more optimal length. A full cylinder will work fine, but not perfect, if the cylinder was 5-10mm longer it would be perfect. My AUG has perfect compression in the cylinder, no leak at all. I have also tested the seal between to hop-up bucking and nozzle, no leak there either. I have lengthened the screw holes on the hop-up chamber to make it spring tighter into the gearbox and I have put several layers of tape on the battery plate to put more pressure on the gearbox.

    I will admit that i'm not the most experienced tech, but all of my statements and theories are based on practical experience.
     
  10. ThompsonFTW

    ThompsonFTW New Member

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    I wasn't insultin. I just didn't have the same problem. (If you wanted to increase your fps by just a tad you could experiment with spring spacers. I have used them effectively...)
     
  11. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I didn't get insulted, just explaining what I'm basing my claims on. I may have a slight air leak somewhere, but I have gone to great lengths to eliminate all air leaks so I have concluded that the barrel might be a bit too long for the cylinder volume. The spring is an old Deep Fire M120, and may have lost some of it's tension, so a better spring might help. I am getting a new Lonex M120 spring in the mail soon, I can try replacing it with that one and see what happens.
     
  12. Reviathon

    Reviathon New Member

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    Kent
    What if I got a longer nozzle, and shaved it down to match the stock nozzle length? Or would that be a bad idea. I think either an AK or M!4 nozzle that has been filed down should do the trick. Unless, it is a bad idea of course.
     
  13. Reviathon

    Reviathon New Member

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    Kent

    What if I got a longer nozzle, and shaved it down to match the stock nozzle length? Or would that be a bad idea. I think either an AK or M!4 nozzle that has been filed down should do the trick. Unless, it is a bad idea of course.
     
  14. Reviathon

    Reviathon New Member

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    Kent
    I probably will do the bolt mod. The guy I bought my AUG from had the bolt mod done and it made it possible for me to fit in my LiPo. Can you post your guide?
     
  15. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I would rather just get a Lonex AUG nozzle and sand down the front of the tappet if it's slightly too short. Turnigy makes an 11.1v 40C 1400mAh li-po that will fit nicely inside an AUG stock BTW. Can a supercool mod merge the triple-post into one post please?
     
  16. ThompsonFTW

    ThompsonFTW New Member

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    Dayton
  17. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Hm, maybe a long type AK nozzle, but a regular AK nozzle would be way too short. The nozzle that was in my CYMA AK-47 and is currently in my G&G AK-104 is alot shorter than an AUG nozzle.
     
  18. Reviathon

    Reviathon New Member

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    Kent
    So it's been a while since I've posted about progress since I've had a lack of money, but I am back!

    Here is an overview of upgrades.

    Externally: There is a Ruger 4x32 .22 rifle scope, and I gave it a new body.

    Internally, it features: Modified V3 gearbox for a quick change spring system, modified steel spring guide for quick change, SHS 15 AoE corrected piston, G&G aluminum piston head, 1/4" 70D sorbo, ZCI V2/V3 integration cylinder head, Lonex AUG POM nozzle, fishbone nub, G&G green bucking, G&G hop Up, and CORE 455mm (gonna get a 509 eventually).

    Electrically: There is a new Lonex Titan A1 (phenomenal motor), new trigger, and a SCR high current diode.

    the first thing I would like to explain is the SCR diode. It has a back story to explain my actions. But from what I know, nobody has ever used an SCR diode in their gun build. But here is the story of why:

    It was the night before my first airsoft game with all of my upgrades and new gear. But I there was one more catch, Semi Auto would completely destroy my new trigger contacts. So I had only one choice: A MOSFET circuit. Well, I threw one together, and it failed to pull my motor. I was very frustrated and pretty sad because of this. But I remembered something, I had many high current SCR charging diodes. The first test was successful. My triggers would survive.

    The circuit is amazing, but only with an 11.1v LiPo. A 7.4v would cause strange behavior (such as constant shooting of the gun. without pulling the trigger.) I would only recommend this circuit for DMR's and other high current build. Mine is not a high current build, but an SHS HS motor +13:1's @450-600FPS would be.

    So far, here are the new issues.

    There is an incompatibility between my cylinder, cylinder head, nozzle, and Hop up. Somewhere in there, my air seal is a joke. I plan to teflon tape the cylinder head to the cylinder, and stretch my piston's O-ring. That should fix some leaks. But my main culprit is the Lonex POM air nozzle for the Aug. The Lonex air nozzle is actually smaller than my stock nozzle. So I suspect there is a gap between my BB's and the air nozzle that is giving me significant air loss.

    What I did to combat this, is I bought a Lonex M14 air nozzle. I did this because my Aug uses a M14 hop Up unit, specifically a G&G one. So I feel like I'm not crazy to want an M14 Hop Up for best results.

    The next culprit, is the ZCI cylinder head. I feel like they are an upper tier of APS guns, so they are lacking compatibility. There is an air leak (small but there) in my air nozzle:cylinder head combo. Unfortunately, I cannot fix this right away since Clandestine does not have any good cylinder heads in stock. But I plan to get a M4 cylinder head (yes it will work) and use that instead. The metal shaft is longer than my stock one, and should be better than the ZCI. But I'll have to wait and see.

    The final culprit would be damage. When I was testing my SCR diode, I had a Lonex POM in my gun. There was a lot of dry firing involved and I believe that is what cause my POM to explode. The thing was completely destroyed, even with the Sorbo pad in it. That being said, I just tapped the cylinder a bit and put in a new piston head, my G&G aluminum. I found out at my game I was only shooting 280FPS with my SHS M120, and 290-300 when I stretched it. After the game, and team mate and I had a work party, and I when I tapped my cylinder some more, chunks of POM fell out. So that may also affect my performance. I will have to test everything again. to be sure.

    Even though my airtrain was faulty, my range was like a TM's. The BB's could reach out and touch someone easily at 150 feet. But I did not have the accuracy. My groupings would just die at 150+ feet. Probably because of the poor FPS and trashy plastic JG M14 hop unit.

    In the future:

    Electronically: I am going to build a custom, non computerized, MOSFET, or maybe even IGBT based PTW circuit to replace the SCR. This circuit would have ROF control on the AUTO contacts, semi/burst on the SEMI contacts, and sensors all over the gun to turn it into a PTW. I also want to throw in low resistance silver wires, and that should call it good.

    Internally: I want to throw in a high torque helical gear set. But I am not sure if 30RPS is too much for them. With those gears, I also want a silenced airtrain assembly, and I plan to glue my tappet to my nozzle (once I get it to work). Then the internals will be complete.

    Externally: I will have my teams custom tracer suppressor on it, a red dot on a 45 degree mount right next to my 4x32 scope for those closer engagements. Other upgrades would be a laser, and a metal RIS to replace my plastic one so I can support a grenade launcher someday. Then finally, I want a SCAR flash hider with a QD suppressor.

    This right here, once it is done, if my dream gun. And I am half way there.

    Also, this isn't "Reviathon's custom Aug build" or a "My custom Aug build" thread only, feel free to post your Aug related shennanigans as you please, I am interested to see what else is out there for inspiration :).
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013
  19. Tackett

    Tackett New Member

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    Charleston
    Ok no pics in this whole thread....that's simply a tease.

    But good luck with the air seal. My suggestion is to go back to the stock nozzle if you have a problem, or compare the new one to the old one with a set of digital calipers to make sure they are all but identical. I found that tolerances of less than .5mm make a significant difference in the air seal, even with a sanded tappet.

    The middle to end length is the important one. Even if the nozzle is the correct length, if the section invading the hop up is too short, you will still get a air hemorrhage. But your problem will be nozzle to round and not nozzle to hop.