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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The gun jammed? Are you able to describe what exactly happened, or post a video of the issue? The port door isn’t related to the jamming.
Yes, the gun jammed. I figured the port door would be somewhat related since it was fully closed and those gears weren't visible before I tried a test shot.

I loaded a mag full of standard 6mm BB's, test fired the gun in semi-auto, firing one BB. I pulled the trigger again and nothing happened... saw that the port door was now stuck open. I'm not sure how helpful a video would be, since nothing is happening other than a really quiet click when I pull the trigger and nothing comes out.
 

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Sounds like a battery issue. Did you charge it from the box or not? They should ship charged but sometimes they are DOA.

The port door being stuck means it is either jammed open or there is a functioning bolt release. Try pulling/pushing the charging hangle and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds like a battery issue. Did you charge it from the box or not? They should ship charged but sometimes they are DOA.

The port door being stuck means it is either jammed open or there is a functioning bolt release. Try pulling/pushing the charging hangle and see what happens.
I thought so too, but I tried with 2 different brand new butterfly batteries.

Here is a video trying the charging handle:

Before it would fully open and close the door. Now its only partial...
 

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I’ll second the semi-lockup diagnosis. It happens when the motor messes up on timing the gearbox cycle, and it gets stuck halfway through, since either the motor or the battery isn’t strong enough to start it up again. In this case it’s almost certainly your battery.

What battery are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’ll second the semi-lockup diagnosis. It happens when the motor messes up on timing the gearbox cycle, and it gets stuck halfway through, since either the motor or the battery isn’t strong enough to start it up again. In this case it’s almost certainly your battery.

What battery are you using?
I'm using the "Matrix Small Butterfly Type NiMH High Output Airsoft Battery (Type: 9.6V / 1200mAh)." I think it should be plenty adequate given the gun recommends a 9.6v or 7.4v battery.
 

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Voltage doesn’t really have anything to do with it. Voltage controls the speed the motor spins at. What you’re looking for is the capacity and the discharge rating.

To get your discharge, multiply the Amps by the “C” rating. In this case, the amps are 1.2, and if the discharge is close to 10C or below, then your battery may be too weak for the gun, even if the gun is totally normal and has zero issues.

Matrix LiPos are known for being bad and lying about their specs (I’ve had two, and can confirm this), but I don’t have any experience with their NiMHs. I did a little quick research, and my search turned up that NiMH batteries in the “high output“ category usually have a discharge of about 10C, which is borderline too low for a regular airsoft gun. How anyone determines what is “high output“ or not, I have no clue.

Ultimately, Matrix doesn’t show the discharge rating, which leaves it ambiguous. Unless anyone happens to know something I don’t.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Voltage doesn’t really have anything to do with it. Voltage controls the speed the motor spins at. What you’re looking for is the capacity and the discharge rating.

To get your discharge, multiply the Amps by the “C” rating. In this case, the amps are 1.2, and if the discharge is close to 10C or below, then your battery may be too weak for the gun, even if the gun is totally normal and has zero issues.

Matrix LiPos are known for being bad and lying about their specs (I’ve had two, and can confirm this), but I don’t have any experience with their NiMHs. I did a little quick research, and my search turned up that NiMH batteries in the “high output“ category usually have a discharge of about 10C, which is borderline too low for a regular airsoft gun. How anyone determines what is “high output“ or not, I have no clue.

Ultimately, Matrix doesn’t show the discharge rating, which leaves it ambiguous. Unless anyone happens to know something I don’t.
Alright whats the biggest baddest battery you would recommend? I might try that before RMAing with Evike. I just feel like its a mechanical issue... the first shot felt great then the second shot felt like it just locked up

I assume its not a problem with the 6mm bb's or the mags
 

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It's not a problem with the mag or bbs. If it were a barrel jam or feeding problem it would still sound mostly normal.

I'd say try charging one of your batteries fully and see what happens.

As for the bolt, are you comfortable removing your upper receiver? You may be able to see the problem and it won't void the warranty.
 

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No, if the gearbox refuses to cycle entirely, and there wasn’t anything wrong with the first shot, than your mags and BBs are clear from blame!

It’s very possible that there is a mechanical issue, semi-lockup is just the mostly likely option, and by far the easiest to check, as you don’t need to open your gearbox or know anything about the insides.

I just did a search on your particular model of gun: the LR-4 is an EBB, which I was not aware of. I was wrong—the bolt may actually be connected to your problem in some way. In an EBB, the piston is usually connected physically to the bolt carrier, and it could be causing trouble.

I’ll also add that EBBs usually take more power than regular AEGs. Definitely charge the battery you have before you throw money at the problem. :)
 

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An EBB... that explains a lot. I'd definitely agree with the semi lockup diagnosis. Thanks to the EBB system we can kinda see where in the cycle you are stuck.

Can you borrow a LiPo from a friend or something? The extra juice may get it over the hump and back to normal. I wouldn't recommend running it on 11.1v consistently, as EBB systems are heavy and can cause PME.
 

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That trick works for most stock guns, but if the gun needs a lot of power, like an EBB or an upgraded replica, it can sometimes just not be enough, especially on a not-so-great battery.
i would think there's some truth to that, but "stock" guns jamming is usually just because of the manual trigger contacts. every time i've ever used manual trigger contacts, this problem is unavoidable to the point that i've seen guys make custom temporary full auto switches to unjam their dmr's even though they're semi locked. for custom builds that use manual trigger contacts, even if you have a 3034 mosfet with no ab you can still have the same issue. it's just a fault of the design itself.
if it really were a too weak battery, i doubt it would occur on a 9.6 butterfly, but you never know. i have only ever seen legitimate jamming with an electric blowback aeg on a dying 8.4 nimh.
sure, the lct lr4 may have a heavy compression assembly combined with a weak ferrous motor, but we can't say for sure if a more powerful battery will solve OP's problem because we haven't eliminated all the possibilities. i just recommended the full auto trick because it's a simple thing that's often overlooked, it's free, and we don't know if OP ever tried it yet. that's not to say that it couldn't be a battery issue, but if the gearbox really is jammed, just brute forcing your way through it will usually cause other problems.
at the end of the day, if OP just wants to RMA it through evike, good on them to take advantage of warranty. absolutely no problem with that
 

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EBB should all be put to the furnace to eliminate the "Jiggly Door Syndrome" Cause more issues then anything and it's unrealistic.

Make sure you hop-up is all the way off.
Try the bolt release to drop the door
Try the select move above for selector
Then try a better battery.

Anything Matrix is "bad".

Cheap goods at 4x the price to fleece the inexperienced player base.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank you everyone who recommended a beefier battery... turns out that was the problem. Based on the recommended battery specs on product page, I thought a 1200mAh 9.6v NiMH butterfly type battery would have been fine... guess not. Now I'm using a bigger 11.1V LiPo and its working beautifully!

I think someone mentioned I shouldn't be using an 11.1V LiPo for extended periods with EBB, is this true?
 

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It depends if the LIPO is a good one or a bad one.

Good 9.6V is more like a 2S LIPO.
 
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