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Building up my HK 416 A5

1673 Views 19 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Guges Mk3
The gun that you have:

Your Budget:

I'm honestly going at this with an open wallet, but perhaps no more than $400?

Your Goals:
Rate of fire: Aiming for around 22~24 rps. Gun currently fires around 19 rps on full auto.
Velocity (FPS): Operation between <330 FPS w/ 0.2's (~1.0j, achieved with a cut M95 spring) and 405-ish FPS w/ 0.2's (1.51j; stock spring, used for outdoor)
Range: 50-125 ft
Accuracy: I'd like to be able to hit center mass of a man-sized target at around 100 ft reliably and consistently.

Your previous teching experience:
Limited to disassembling TM-design M9s and opening the ARES UMP45 V2 AEG and replacing the packing and barrel.

Willingness to learn to DIY and tech:

Willing to learn how to maintain it, but I'd rather it be built professionally as I don't trust myself with what I want on this one.

Your gameplan so far:
These are the parts I've considered so far.
* Gate Titan
* Tienly 30k (from Guges)
* SHS gears, but still not sure on what ratio to get. I believe the stock ones on the gun are 22.23:1 if my math for counting gears is not off. YouTube says 16.9:1.
* Replacing barrel to a Lambda 6.01 with rhop

Any outstanding conditions:
I live in the USA so sourcing parts from overseas retailers is not ideal but can be done if need be.

What Role/Type of Play You Will Be Doing/Playing:
CQB and Assault, so lots of semi and not a lot of full auto. [insert generic "T R I G G E R R E S P O N S E" here]

Other airsoft stuff you use in/on your gun:
Battery: Currently a Turnigy 3S 1000 mAh 20~40C lipo, but will be switching to the battery packs Guges stocks once they arrive.
BBs: Stuck to 0.2's for CQB. Outdoors, 0.28's or 0.32s (or whatever is recommended at my max range. 0.28's have just been what I had been using).

Actual question(?):
I'm looking into modifying my HK416A5. Planning on getting her built up to be more for outdoor use, but with the flexibility of being used indoors if need be in case a friend of mine wants to join in on the CQB fun (have the UMP45 as my primary for that). With this in mind, I've decided to go for a low-ish (22~ rps, is this still considered low?) stress build so I can swap springs and not have something blow up on me. With my limited tech experience, I'd like to minimize having to open her up to replace something.

Another thing I'm looking into improving is the reliability of the internals. VFC isn't quite known for having amazing internals and some of the stock parts can be dodgy, i.e. the gears, piston, and tappet plate if I recall correctly. The shimming, AoE, and whatnot will be done by a tech. I do intend to replace the built-in mosfet with a Titan and get rid of the in-line one she has going right now.

I'm looking for input on parts to grab/not grab so I can reach my goals above. If I'm misinformed about anything, please feel free to point me in the right direction! Thank you in advance.
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That rps isn't too hard to get, even a motor change will do that alone. So you don't have to go crazy. However a 13:1 gearset with a 22tpa (20k) motor on a 3 cell lipo will yield a really good rps with really good trigger response without too much overspin. That would be about 25rps.

But that 30k motor on a 3 cell lipo with stock gears would also hit about 25rps, it just may have more overspin with the indoor spring, but with that mosfet that's manageable.

As for barrels, the lambda 6.01 is a great barrel, but avoid their cheap coated steel ones, they are trash, go for the nicer stainless steel or go with a pdi 6.01

6.01 barrels are good, but not forgiving. It must be straight, good bbs must be used, and it must be cleaned often. Even then accuracy gains aren't guaranteed. But a fps boost is typically achieved due to the efficiency.

A 6.03 or 6.05 is more forgiving, and more accurate honestly, a laylax 6.03 barrel isn't a bad choice ever. I have a lapped one, and it is the best i have even after 6 years.
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To judge a bb...
- You check for seems.
- you check for a even polish, as long as it's even it will work pretty good. It doesn't have to be a mirror as that doesn't matter.
- You cut the bb open and look for air pockets.
Bio bbs that are soft will dirty up a barrel fast and not feed in midcaps.

Most airsoft bbs are from the same manufacturers. If they look the same, then they are the same. Indoor it doesn't matter how good ammo is as long as it doesn't jam.

Outdoor a solid .28 bb with no air pockets or seams will make for a good day.

I've fired literally every brand of ammo and inspected dozens of them over the last 10 years or so. I've found only a few are perfect. G&G reg .28 are the best non-bio I've used. Tippmann and Hpa are the best bios I've used. I havent used hpa bbs in a long time so they may have changed oem.

Basically the material used, Temps and molding process determines if the bb will have air pockets, the quality of the casts will determine if there is seams, and polishing is determined by request. Polishing can cause some bbs to feed in certain mags and no others. A polished bb is slightly smaller but is smooth with less friction.

BLS is one of the largest oems if I remember correctly. From testing other bbs, I've found many brands are identical to BLS, which means they are likely bls oem. They all have air pockets.

This includes Tippmann regs, valken regs, krytac regs, matrix regs, and more. I may be wrong about some of those but it's my guess. Point is, most of them are the same bb in a different package.
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I saw the mention of .25g bbs and a mention of tippman. If you buy .25s avoid Tippman I have found poor bbs in every bad that I have bought for the past few months.
Yeah the non bios aren't good at all.
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