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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright y’all! After some harmless confusion, I have figured it out. Everything related to my build will be posted here.


I’ll be competing against @danerd but I’ll be taking my build in a completely different direction.

My base gun is a TM M4A1 carbine length AEG (not the NGRS), chosen to provide a bit of a different, more classic flavor compared to what I usually run, as well as having a few desirable attributes for the build.

For now, my concept is of an “apocalypse” AR, built using a combination of old parts and new.

Everything will be “weathered”, and most likely painted (patterns and colors TBD).

I’ll be keeping the carrying handle, as I think it looks kinda sick.

I’ve decided to keep the original stock to help ground the build, although I’ll probably be adding a stock pouch.

I’ll be changing the grip, mostly likely to an EMG/Strike slim grip, but that’s yet to be determined for sure.

For the optic, I’m caught between form and function: function would have me do either an open reflex sight, or none at all, but I have a 1-9x hunting scope that would look great, and really fit the theme.

I’m still debating the muzzle device I want to use. For regular use, I have a very nice looking RS Surefire Warcomp .556, or a foam filled “mock” suppressor can that may be used to hide an extended barrel, but I also have an RS Silencerco suppressor for a real M4A1. It can’t stay on the build permanently, but it can stay for a couple of pics.

I’m looking at adding a sling, but not sure yet—I have a buddy who somehow acquires just about every piece of tactical gear known to man, so I’ll see if he’s got anything.

For the hand guard I’m still doing my research—the Magpul MOE SL is my top contender, but I’m also admiring the BCM PMCR. Nothing determined yet—research to be done!

I’m looking at adding a Krytac Trident sling plate, but first I have to see about sourcing a sling.


That about wraps it up for my ideas on the externals, now we get to the insides:


Danerd is probably going to outdo me on the externals, build aesthetics, and cool factor (GBBR), so my chance to pull ahead is on the inside. I’ll be using a GATE Pulsar, with the aim to achieve an effective range of 90 meters using heavy ammunition. I’ll be trying to keep the FPS under 450 w/ .20g, but if necessary I’ll go up to 500.

Since very few people have this engine so far, the limits aren’t well known, so I might have to adjust my effective range goal as I begin tuning and tinkering.

For now, I’m trying to use the supplies I have on hand, and unfortunately I only have a couple inner barrels in the 380 range, which is where I’d ideally want it.

I have two Lambda SMART barrels, 6.08mm and 6.03mm, but both are 509mm. The HPA engine should be able to correctly volume either, but it may cut down on efficiency and potentially even accuracy.

Unless I source a different barrel, the most promising choice is looking to be a T.N.T. S+ 387mm.

I’m going to take a look at the stock hop unit, but since I prefer to work on rotary units, I’ll likely use a G&G polymer rotary (assuming it fits).

I’ll be testing several packings and nub combos to determine what works the best with the engine and with the gun itself, but I’m leaning towards a ML MR.Hop silicone 85* and either a 3D printed RHop arm or a homemade concave nub (I would probably cut out of plastic; broken barrel clips work great, since they’re already the right ID.)

Everything will be exhaustively tested, fitted, and stabilized to attempt and provide peak accuracy.

Unfortunately, Danerd’s build looks to be no slouch either, so I have my work cut out for me.

The second requirement of the internals, is that I’m going for complete silence. Though accuracy comes first, I will certainly adjust barrel length and other factors to attempt and make this rifle as quiet as possible. (Here’s where the foam-filled suppressor comes in)


And that about wraps it up for my build ideas/notes so far.


And one final note; Since I didn’t want to allocate my budget to buy a $200 Yong Heng air compressor, I opted for a hand pump to fill my air tank. Put your bets in, ladies and gentlemen; how many times do I fill the tank before I give in and buy a real compressor??
 

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I got about 5 fills with a handpump into 13“ bottles before the pump gave Up the ghost. Don’t expect to fill that bottle in one sitting. The pump will build up heat fast, and that will accelerate the pump’s ware. It would take me about 20 minutes to do the 13” bottles. see if your local paintball field has a fill station, or look up a local scuba shop to get that initial fill in, and use the pump to top off the bottle. since you are using semi only mostly, you shouldn’t use up the whole bottle all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
We have a local paintball field, and it could make sense to buy an extra tank and fill up there, but the distance between my house and any scuba shops/fill stations is one of the reasons I haven’t messed with HPA until now.

There is a 48/3000 tank on eBay right now that I’ve been eyeing…
 

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the other way to deal with the distance part is to use a scuba fill whip. Buy a big scuba tank, get it filled, and use that to top off bottles. You can pick scuba tanks up relatively cheap, and get a ninja fill station. But you still have to fill the big tank. Then, you are looking at almost the price of a compressor. an extra tank isn’t a bad idea either, especially if you run out when you‘r not around a fill station. The pump will get you started thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay y’all: slings. I’ve decided I want one for this build, and unlike my usual methods, this time I’m picking the right one.

Here’s the options:

First up is a leather M1907, Here. This is easily the best looking choice, and I think it would really accentuate the rifle. It’s a true shooter’s sling, so in an apocalypse scenario this would be a great choice, as you’d be able to make long shots easily from a standing position. Airsoft guns are light enough and the recoil is nothing, though, so this sling is a looks/spirit-of-the-build choice. The downside is that it would more than likely be a pain during ambidextrous shooting and playing around cover, which I do quite a lot of. (Actually, it would probably be useful while rushing, as I love to run and shoot, and this would be great to stabilize my aim while I sprint) I’d definitely be staining the leather with oil to get that darkened, used look to it.

Next up is a two-point Paracord sling, like This. For me to get this sling, I’d have to convince myself that an apocalypse rifle would really want Paracord attached to it in case I needed it, as it does not offer much functionality over the M1907, and it costs more than a traditional 2-point.

Tradtional 2-point is an obvious choice, but I’m not feeling it.

And finally we have the ”airsoft functional” 1-point sling, displayed Here. This would allow me lots of room to play ambidextrously, while still having decent rifle retention. The downside is that, compared to the M1907, it doesn’t look so hot. Mind you, the looks are fine on it’s own, just in the context of the build, I feel the M1907 has the clear upper hand.

Let me know what y’all think, but unless something changes, chances are I’ll be throwing the classic leather M1907 on there. :D
 

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I have an original 1907 sling on my M1917 Enfiled. I try not to be too rough with it because as far as I know its original to the rifle (circa 1917). Its still relatively sturdy and the brass fittings are still in pretty good shape. It does take some know-how in getting it setup correctly, but once done its a very sturdy and reliable sling.
 

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I make a lot of slings. If you want to consider doing something custom for this build, I would be more than happy to help you out. I've never shared my stuff here, but you can check my website here for ideas. Home | Citizen Gear Co
For my personal stuff I use a lot of 2 to 1 point converters. I find myself switching back and forth a lot while on the field.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm fresh outta woodland webbing and have a long back order, but ranger green is pretty subtle and brownish looking
That would work great, actually, now that I think about it. What does your ordering/creation process look like?
 

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That would work great, actually, now that I think about it. What does your ordering/creation process look like?
👍
Everything is made to order. Lead times can get really far out there at times.
I just shipped the last of the black friday slings about 3 weeks ago.
Right now I'm at about 14-20 day lead time for production.
I take all orders through the website.

Edit to clarify.
Orders for padded slings fit in the timeline I posted. If an order only has a non padded sling and hardware, it gets made and shipped much faster. Usually 5-7 days for production
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
👍
Everything is made to order. Lead times can get really far out there at times.
I just shipped the last of the black friday slings about 3 weeks ago.
Right now I'm at about 14-20 day lead time for production.
I take all orders through the website.

Edit to clarify.
Orders for padded slings fit in the timeline I posted. If an order only has a non padded sling and hardware, it gets made and shipped much faster. Usually 5-7 days for production
I’m looking at the cast iron right now—is there any possibility you’d be able to do a wolf gray/flecktarn mashup? (I’m happy to order through your website, of course)
 

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I’m looking at the cast iron right now—is there any possibility you’d be able to do a wolf gray/flecktarn mashup? (I’m happy to order through your website, of course)
Sure!
Just need to specify hardware color, thread color, webbing color etc.
I can mix up the colors of the padded section, as it has a top and bottom material. Top section is smaller than bottom section.
Hardware colors are limited for pull tabs, but I can do the loops and triglides in black, tan, green or wolf grey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sure!
Just need to specify hardware color, thread color, webbing color etc.
I can mix up the colors of the padded section, as it has a top and bottom material. Top section is smaller than bottom section.
Hardware colors are limited for pull tabs, but I can do the loops and triglides in black, tan, green or wolf grey.

I’m thinking wolf gray webbing and top section, flecktarn bottom section, and then black thread, black loops and triglides. Combine that with two HK loops and it sounds pretty darn good.

How should I specify the coloring? Is there a space on the website I’m missing?
 

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I’m thinking wolf gray webbing and top section, flecktarn bottom section, and then black thread, black loops and triglides. Combine that with two HK loops and it sounds pretty darn good.

How should I specify the coloring? Is there a space on the website I’m missing?
Sounds good. Just specify in the order notes everything you mentioned.
It won't get lost in the cracks or anything. I'm a one-man operation so I'll know when I see your order
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
All right y’all, this is probably the last update for a while: I’ve ordered my handguard, sling, grip, carrying handle picatinny mount, and I have everything I need for the insides, but I’ll be waiting on the regulator from China, and for GATE to ship out the pulsar itself!

As soon as I receive the replica from Guges I’ll start building the externals and putting together a barrel group, but I may not update as I can’t let Danerd know all of what I’m doing.

Leo out!
 
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