[Randomserg]

So I have a question I want to increase my RPS on my classic army X9 I want to change my gear set I currently have 18:1 stock I know CA makes things pretty proprietary I currently have a ZCI TpA 22 motor with a vallen 2000 MAH 15/25c battery I would want to know if anyone has changed their gear set for the nemesis x9 that will work

 

[Randomserg]

 

[Hyperslow556]

You just need a magnet to put in the 12:1 gears for the ECS cutoff detection. Just need to figure out what pull strength was used. Likely N38 or N42.

 

[Randomserg]

You just need a magnet to put in the 12:1 gears for the ECS cutoff detection. Just need to figure out what pull strength was used. Likely N38 or N42.

Can I use the one already on the 18:1 gears? Or I would have to buy another one? Now what company makes good solid gears?

 

[rm105]

If you can get it out, sure. It shouldn't be pressed in as neo magnets are somewhat brittle, but it's likely not loose either. May have an adhesive too. Probably wont be able to drill a hole in the back to help push it out, gearsets are almost all hardened steel these days - a diamond tip grinding bit will get through it given enough time, anything less will just get dull ime.

SHS is perfectly fine, you can pay more if you like but you don't get much for the extra $$ other than perhaps a warranty.


Here's a thread from someone that got 12s working in a CA but had to much overspin to deal with and gave up - might be able to pick up where they left off?

In case link dies, here's the takeaways:

Magnets used:
2/10" dia. x 1/8" thick, Grade N42, Axial poles

K&J Magnetics: DH22

www.kjmagnetics.com

Notes:
Polarity may matter, match the stock orientation
Magnet needs to be over sensor when shell put back together
Will get overspin

 

[Randomserg]

If you can get it out, sure. It shouldn't be pressed in as neo magnets are somewhat brittle, but it's likely not loose either. May have an adhesive too. Probably wont be able to drill a hole in the back to help push it out, gearsets are almost all hardened steel these days - a diamond tip grinding bit will get through it given enough time, anything less will just get dull ime.

SHS is perfectly fine, you can pay more if you like but you don't get much for the extra $$ other than perhaps a warranty.


Here's a thread from someone that got 12s working in a CA but had to much overspin to deal with and gave up - might be able to pick up where they left off?

In case link dies, here's the takeaways:

Magnets used:
2/10" dia. x 1/8" thick, Grade N42, Axial poles

K&J Magnetics: DH22

www.kjmagnetics.com

Notes:
Polarity may matter, match the stock orientation
Magnet needs to be over sensor when shell put back together
Will get overspin

Thank you for that information i will look into it do you know what can cause fps RPS to drop? It was at a solid 350 and RPS was at a 26 not sure when it dropped but all I’ve done since the last time I used it outdoors was change the hop up and barrel since my last hop up was cracked it went down to 16 rps and 280 fp average it’s so weird below is the new set up maybe something else happened because old hop up and barrel was low as well and I’m chrono into it with my Acetech lighter BT

 

[Randomserg]

Blue hop up is the old one

 

[rm105]

Generally speaking, FPS is effected by your compression set seals, bucking, nozzle, spring, hop unit tension, and barrel while RPS is effected by the battery, wiring, motor, and spring.

Seeing both drop at once is odd. Battery charged up / same one as before? Done the paper test to check for air leaks at the hopup after changing the barrel/hop unit? (flip the gun over and place a small piece of paper over the BB feed tube. shoot the gun; if the paper is blown off, the nozzle isn't sealing with the bucking)

 

[Randomserg]

Generally speaking, FPS is effected by your compression set seals, bucking, nozzle, spring, hop unit tension, and barrel while RPS is effected by the battery, wiring, motor, and spring.

Seeing both drop at once is odd. Battery charged up / same one as before? Done the paper test to check for air leaks at the hopup after changing the barrel/hop unit? (flip the gun over and place a small piece of paper over the BB feed tube. shoot the gun; if the paper is blown off, the nozzle isn't sealing with the bucking)

Yea it’s the same battery as the last time when it was shooting 350 FPS
I never did or have done the paper test it was just odd to me that with the old set up it was down to 300 fps

 

[Randomserg]

Generally speaking, FPS is effected by your compression set seals, bucking, nozzle, spring, hop unit tension, and barrel while RPS is effected by the battery, wiring, motor, and spring.

Seeing both drop at once is odd. Battery charged up / same one as before? Done the paper test to check for air leaks at the hopup after changing the barrel/hop unit? (flip the gun over and place a small piece of paper over the BB feed tube. shoot the gun; if the paper is blown off, the nozzle isn't sealing with the bucking)

Generally speaking, FPS is effected by your compression set seals, bucking, nozzle, spring, hop unit tension, and barrel while RPS is effected by the battery, wiring, motor, and spring.

Seeing both drop at once is odd. Battery charged up / same one as before? Done the paper test to check for air leaks at the hopup after changing the barrel/hop unit? (flip the gun over and place a small piece of paper over the BB feed tube. shoot the gun; if the paper is blown off, the nozzle isn't sealing with the bucking)

Here’s what my gun was at earlier

 

[rm105]

I wonder if the spring got parked 'compressed' after the last outing? That'll drop FPS a bit although ~50 is rather high if it was already broken in and I'd expect RPS remain the same or even increase slightly if such was the case... Odd behavior. If it was on my bench I'd do the paper test, swap the spring, and T/S from there with a known good battery.

 

[Randomserg]

I wonder if the spring got parked 'compressed' after the last outing? That'll drop FPS a bit although ~50 is rather high if it was already broken in and I'd expect RPS remain the same or even increase slightly if such was the case... Odd behavior. If it was on my bench I'd do the paper test, swap the spring, and T/S from there with a known good battery.

I’ll do the paper test
I did swap out the spring to a m120 I believe I can’t recall right now but the fps for that is 400 so before I put it in the new spring it was 260-270
Now it’s at the current average of 290
What do you consider a good known battery I currently am using a valken 2000mah 15/25c

 

[Guges Mk3]

No Airsoft Distribution Batteries in the USA are "good". Mediocre at best.

CA Mechboxes are not that proprietary...and their springs are quite surprisingly good.

But swapping a "known" spring and still only getting 290 indicates more issues.

Who is the maker of the spring?

 

[Randomserg]

No Airsoft Distribution Batteries in the USA are "good". Mediocre at best.

CA Mechboxes are not that proprietary...and their springs are quite surprisingly good.

But swapping a "known" spring and still only getting 290 indicates more issues.

Who is the maker of the spring?

Hey guges
Ok well that’s good to know that they’re not that proprietary
And that’s what I feel that something else is wrong I haven’t opened the gearbox yet I will need to
And the new spring is lancer tactical

 

[mr. potatohead]

And the new spring is lancer tactical

This may be your problem, just saying. Try a reliable spring such as a guarder, prometheus, modify, ASG ultimate, or lonex. Stay away from SHS, matrix, EVIKE, and LT...

 

[Randomserg]

This may be your problem, just saying. Try a reliable spring such as a guarder, prometheus, modify, ASG ultimate, or lonex. Stay away from SHS, matrix, EVIKE, and LT...

Copy that I will look into getting a different spring but isn’t it faulty odd even with a new spring it didn’t increase much and still odd my RPS dropped

 

[mr. potatohead]

It may be that LT's quality control just isn't that good with their springs, leading to a possibly mislabeled unit? I don't like telling people to just plunk down more money for another part, but in your case it might be beneficial getting a reputable spring brand.

 

[Randomserg]

It may be that LT's quality control just isn't that good with their springs, leading to a possibly mislabeled unit? I don't like telling people to just plunk down more money for another part, but in your case it might be beneficial getting a reputable spring brand.

Yea totally understand and I will definitely get a new one asap

 

[Guges Mk3]

I am surmising that the piston head o-ring may have given away...thus your fps drop. Don't buy anything else until you can confirm.

 

[Randomserg]

I am surmising that the piston head o-ring may have given away...thus your fps drop. Don't buy anything else until you can confirm.

Ok will confirm later on today thank you guges