[rm105]

If you can get it out, sure. It shouldn't be pressed in as neo magnets are somewhat brittle, but it's likely not loose either. May have an adhesive too. Probably wont be able to drill a hole in the back to help push it out, gearsets are almost all hardened steel these days - a diamond tip grinding bit will get through it given enough time, anything less will just get dull ime.

SHS is perfectly fine, you can pay more if you like but you don't get much for the extra $$ other than perhaps a warranty.


Here's a thread from someone that got 12s working in a CA but had to much overspin to deal with and gave up - might be able to pick up where they left off?

In case link dies, here's the takeaways:

Magnets used:
2/10" dia. x 1/8" thick, Grade N42, Axial poles

K&J Magnetics: DH22

www.kjmagnetics.com

Notes:
Polarity may matter, match the stock orientation
Magnet needs to be over sensor when shell put back together
Will get overspin

 

[rm105]

Generally speaking, FPS is effected by your compression set seals, bucking, nozzle, spring, hop unit tension, and barrel while RPS is effected by the battery, wiring, motor, and spring.

Seeing both drop at once is odd. Battery charged up / same one as before? Done the paper test to check for air leaks at the hopup after changing the barrel/hop unit? (flip the gun over and place a small piece of paper over the BB feed tube. shoot the gun; if the paper is blown off, the nozzle isn't sealing with the bucking)

 

[rm105]

I wonder if the spring got parked 'compressed' after the last outing? That'll drop FPS a bit although ~50 is rather high if it was already broken in and I'd expect RPS remain the same or even increase slightly if such was the case... Odd behavior. If it was on my bench I'd do the paper test, swap the spring, and T/S from there with a known good battery.

 

[rm105]

If the oring is not visually damaged (torn, etc) you can test compression by pulling the piston + cylinder & cylinder head out of the gearbox, putting your finger over the tip of the cylinder head, and trying to ~abruptly push the piston into the cylinder. If seals are all good, you should not be able to push the piston all the way in - if bad, air will leak past the seals and the piston can be pushed all the way in. How easy the piston can be pushed in indicates how bad the seals are. Note that this tests the piston and cylinder head seals - inspect both if there's a leak.

 

[rm105]

Lonex blue or red for the piston (blue recommended for regular builds, red is better for high power springs). Lonex POM piston head is generally accepted as the best.

 

[rm105]

Yep, that's the Lonex Red. There's a Blue version as well, same design but it's made of different material. I've run both in DSG setups with an SP140 spring (~m175 w/ a half stroke), neither has had issues. Polymer pickup tooth is preferable IMO as it's easier on your gears + any wear will just improve AOE