[Randomserg]

As a general rule bushings are more reliable, but bearings should be fine for your purposes.

Ok thank you

 

[Randomserg]

Ok thank you

Whats your view on aoe? Since I will be changing gears and all that is aoe 100% needed?

 

[mr. potatohead]

AOE will increase the longevity and efficiency of your build at minimal cost and time. All it usually takes is a rubber washer. Try looking at the pinned AOE thread...

 

[Randomserg]

AOE will increase the longevity and efficiency of your build at minimal cost and time. All it usually takes is a rubber washer. Try looking at the pinned AOE thread...

Ok I will look into it
Rubber washer? Sounds easier than with the whole Dremel and shaving teeth off pistom

 

[aotsukisho]

Ok I will look into it
Rubber washer? Sounds easier than with the whole Dremel and shaving teeth off pistom

You still have to grind off the 2nd tooth if it isn't already

 

[Randomserg]

Y

You still have to grind off the 2nd tooth if it isn't already

Yes Copy, i Just noticed that thank you Im trying to get as much info as I can so I can do it all correctly

 

[mr. potatohead]

Or you can get a 14 tooth piston...but that's more money...

 

[Randomserg]

Or you can get a 14 tooth piston...but that's more money...

I ended up ordering a 14.5 tooth pistón if I need to shave off some I will

 

[mr. potatohead]

Pretty much the same thing

 

[Randomserg]

Pretty much the same thing

Perfect thank you mr potato head I will give an update once it’s done

 

[Hyperslow556]

I have a bunch of the magnets that would work for these gearboxes, and they are not as big so the fit makes it easy to get in and out and they still have a pull that registers clearly in the detection sensor. PM me, I'll send one to you.

 

[Randomserg]

I have a bunch of the magnets that would work for these gearboxes, and they are not as big so the fit makes it easy to get in and out and they still have a pull that registers clearly in the detection sensor. PM me, I'll send one to you.

Omg that would be helpful I appreciate you or if you can send me a photo of it and what brand and size you know all the specifics

 

[Randomserg]

So I’m currently going to change out my gears and I found the problem of why I lost so much fps

 

[mr. potatohead]

Ah yes that cylinder head has seen better days. A tip to check for cylinder air seal when you install a new one: hold the cylinder with the cylinder head installed and the piston assembly inside. Put your finger over the cylinder head to create a seal and try to push the piston forward. It should be extremely difficult if not "impossible" to push the piston. If you feel a leak, the cylinder head is not sealed well with the cylinder or (more likely) your piston head O-ring is bad. You can try taking the O-ring out and giving the it a stretch or two.

 

[Randomserg]

Ah yes that cylinder head has seen better days. A tip to check for cylinder air seal when you install a new one: hold the cylinder with the cylinder head installed and the piston assembly inside. Put your finger over the cylinder head to create a seal and try to push the piston forward. It should be extremely difficult if not "impossible" to push the piston. If you feel a leak, the cylinder head is not sealed well with the cylinder or (more likely) your piston head O-ring is bad. You can try taking the O-ring out and giving the it a stretch or two.

Ok so I put in the 13:1 gears I shimmed, corrected aoe but I’m concerned with tappat plate I haven’t tested it yet and unfortunately forgot to take a photo but I found a photo online THIS IS NOT MY GEAR BOX just using as reference mine looks like that is that ok?

 

[Guges Mk3]

If you are referencing the pad being chewed and it being rubber (with grease softening it up and allowing the piston head to imprint on it).

That is not a variable in air leaks. Air leak issue would be the o-ring that is around the cylinder head. If the same rubber is used and the same grease that touched the head is on those seals...yes it can cause an air leak.

 

[Randomserg]

Ok so I put in the 13:1 gears I shimmed, corrected aoe but I’m concerned with tappat plate I haven’t tested it yet and unfortunately forgot to take a photo but I found a photo online THIS IS NOT MY GEAR BOX just using as reference mine looks like that is that ok? View attachment 279950

If you are referencing the pad being chewed and it being rubber (with grease softening it up and allowing the piston head to imprint on it).

That is not a variable in air leaks. Air leak issue would be the o-ring that is around the cylinder head. If the same rubber is used and the same grease that touched the head is on those seals...yes it can cause an air leak.

ok thank you for that information

 

[mr. potatohead]

What about your tappet plate are you concerned about? Return time too late? If you're afraid your tappet's late you can cut a coil or two off the tappet spring and then rebend it which will increase return speed.

 

[Randomserg]

What about your tappet plate are you concerned about? Return time too late? If you're afraid your tappet's late you can cut a coil or two off the tappet spring and then rebend it which will increase return speed.

Ok so I put in my 13:1 gears I shimmed accordingly I corrected AOE but seems like with correction of Aoe the tappat plate doesn’t sit flush with sector plate when I pull it back it sits bent and that doesn’t seem right now bare with me I forgot to take photo with everything in the gearbox so I drew on it, the top photo is MY gear box the bottom photo WITH YELLOW CIRCLE IS NOT MY GEAR BOX Im using it as reference I circled the tappat plate that’s how mines look bent exactly like that when I put it on the sector gear

 

[Guges Mk3]

That sector is in a less than ideal position.

With AR latch in a notch on the bevel gear to prevent rotation. Sector notch should have the tappet at rest.
Like this:

Just pull out your sector and rotate it by 2-3 teeth position and put it back in so the tappet isn't flexed. Plus having it flexed like that makes it harder to snap the box back together.