Airsoft Forum banner

Danerd's Various Builds and Tech Thread

25844 Views 395 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  danerd
Hey all,

I've been on the forum for quite a while now, and have decided to throw my hat into the ring of build threads. Some of you may be thinking "great, another build thraed...", But I'll do my best to keep things interesting!

A little backround on me:

I first began airsoft back in 2007. I was invited by a few friends to go play at some property one them owned after school let out. At the time, I had no knowledge of the online retailers or what "actual" airsoft guns were. All I knew of was what could be had at the local Walmart. I showed up to play with a clear Crossman Pulse R72 (G3 shorty), paintball mask, and a fanny pack I used to keep a bottle of BBs in. To be honest, I had never had so much fun. About a year later I discovered Airsoft GI and Evike, and picked up my first "actual" airsoft gun: A JG G36K. I spent about three years with that gun, playing nearly every weekend in all types of weather with it. When it finally broke, I thought it would be an easy fix. Nope. For those of you who have never opened a gearbox, and then do so thinking it wont be hard, you know what I mean ;). Needless to say, I picked up a new gun shortly after that. To make a long story short, Ive been in the sport since then, and have had virtually every major category of platform. I started teching my own rifles about 8 years ago and have done everything save for a DSG or ER-hop. (Ive never done either of them as I have never had the need)

That all said, I'll start of with a few builds:

- CYMA M14

This has been a work in progress for a while now. I've always had a soft spot for the older rifles and the M14 is no exception. There is just something about it. This particular M14 has been a WIP for over a year now. I picked it up non-functioning in a trade. Turned out it the issue was the gearbox locking up. Once unlocked, it worked fine. Performance was nothing special whatsoever.

I have an older thread here that details the work that has gone into it so far. It has taken a backseat to other projects since then. I will be returning to this project in due time.


The name is a mouthful, no? Basically its a VFC M4 with Knights Armament trademarks on the body and rail, full ambi features (which is fantastic for a lefty like me) and is overall an awesome piece. This one has been in the works since September; working on it when I would come home from college when I had the time. Now that I'm done with college, I can put more time into it. It has had an odd journey, starting out as an AEG, then an HPA rifle, then back to an AEG. Currently it sits as my go-to primary and has been pretty well-built, but I'd like to push it a bit further. This is the build I'll be focusing on first.

- JG G36

One would think that after having five of these things, selling all of them, and regretting selling each one, I would have learned by now to keep at least one. Hopefully, this is that one.
This G36 isnt the common C variant, or the K, but rather the full-size or E variant. This one doesnt need much work internally, really the basics are it. Im debating whether or not I want to go nuts on the externals. I built one years ago for a customer that turned out really nice, and it didnt cost too much.

- Classic Army SA58

This is the rifle I really learned how to tech on. Its a real oldie - Ive had it about eight years and it has seen better days. It still has the original DS Arms trademarks on it, but its in really rough shape and in need of a few parts that arent easy to come by nowadays. That all said, it has been a bit of a gem because you really dont see them. I could turn it into a "DMR" seeing that its a 7.62 rifle, but with it being the carbine variant instead of the full-size, I think a full stock 7.62 SBR would be better.

- WE G18C

I picked this up recently in a trade. The previous owner did a number on the lower with a wretched stippling job, they also "upgraded" it with a number of questionable aftermarket parts that seem to be hindering, rather than improving its performance. Angel Custom for the win, right? :rolleyes:
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 5
1 - 5 of 396 Posts
What do you all think about bushing size? Does overall size matter in terms of strength, or are they all the same? I have read information arguing both sides. My opinion is the larger the bushing, the greater axial load it can take before failing, assuming all other parameters (type of material, material quality, load etc) are the same due to the additional area of material the load is distributed over.
I don't think it does as the gearbox material will probably fail before a quality bushing will. I have more faith in a 6mm FLT bushing handling stress than a 9mm SHS steel one, and if the bushing is properly glued in then technically the entire gearbox assembly is supporting it regardless of the physical bushing size. Unglued smaller bushings will apply a higher PSI than unglued larger bushings due to smaller surface area which may cause the gearbox to deform quicker.

Bearing size on the other hand is more of a concern, due to the physical size of the internal components. Larger is generally better, although like anything else mechanical the quality and materials used make a difference too. I usually use hybrid ceramic bearings (stainless steel races with ceramic balls) for hobby applications.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Try to lightly sand the brush contact surface, if the arm aren't blown then there might be buildup/corrosion on the brush faces.

Otherwise, you likely lost a pole (whether it be via wire or comm damage) or two, and when the motor rests with the pole(s) in a particular angle the motor will fail to spin up. The motor heating up leads me to believe it's a pole short rather than an open circuit failure since open circuit will just freewheel the motor when it's supposed to be on power.
You don't say? I know PTS has the "G-Mags" that can be found here and there every so often. They aren't OG's, but I am curious to try them out.
Friend has the new batch for his KWA, they work very well. It was picky with other brand mags like Ares or UFC.

No clip-together nubs so they fit in normal mag pouches too
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I'm considering what platform I'd like to tinker with. Having had a WE, it's a contender. They aren't the best out of the box, but it doesn't take much to get them running well.
Friend of mine has a WE and loves it, there's more of an aftermarket (RATECH) compared to their pistols so parts can gradually be swapped as they break to extend its life. Only point of incompatibility is that transition from closed to open bolt systems but there are firstparty conversion kits for that.

If my WE M14 didn't cost so damn much to get running I'd have a much more favorable opinion of it. I'm sure if I got a WE M4 I would have enjoyed it a lot more.

WA is also a strong contender as they work well (when tuned and with good parts) and have a massive aftermarket parts market, much like WE. I'm looking at offerings from G&P here and not the WOC-X kits, but the WOC units with better build quality.
WA system is the most 'realistic' if that's what you're going for but they are supposedly kind of fragile out of the box. Doesn't help that each manufacturer has subtle modifications so they aren't always intercompatible. I have an older GHK M4 v1 and it runs well as a primary but have not had much experience with other brands. Have personally seen a VFC 416 struggle at our field, but I'm trying to get a VFC of my own to either reinforce or dispel my bias. I have a WOC based project going slowly, and at first glance it seems like the FCG design is way more complex than it needs to be.

Current consensus of the groups I follow is that GHK's QC went downhill but their mags are still the best thing ever made even though the feed lips are extremely stiff and designed for Asia spec bbs (smaller). Devilhunter is also manufacturing aluminum feed lips for people who can't be bothered to load their mags correctly and crack theirs.

KJW is one that seems a tad odd. Quality appears to be there, but I'm not well-versed with them. The same goes for Innokatsu.
I'm working on one right now and it's probably the most bizarre combination of things I've seen in a gas AR platform. Almost everything is proprietary in all three revisions of it, but it does fit AR-15 parts in some places you wouldn't expect (stock functional forward assist that accepts AR-15 spec). I've heard KJW is great at taking care of customers in the sense that spare parts are easily accessible but cannot confirm yet.

TDC hop adjustment mod is very easily done on this, and it actually accepts AEG outer barrels that can be modified with a dremel to add a slot on the bottom that the bb pickup on the nozzle sits. If you are one for light trigger pulls, the KJW I'm working on has a sub 3lb break which is the lightest I've ever felt on an M4 replica.

Unfortunately it shoots very hot out of the box (450fps with 0.25g with a 250mm inner barrel) and the primary manufacturer of aftermarket parts like FPS reducers is long gone (Cradle Airsoft). Also the charging handle is weak and will break on you but fortunately you can modify an AR-15 one to work

I'm not 100% sure on Inokatsu but there is one on Redwolf that apparently takes GHK mags, not sure if that means it's a modified WA system or a Koba system like the KJW.

TM is TM. The MWS is probably the "best" system out there in terms of out-of-the-box quality, but all I really know about them is word-of-mouth from the fan boys.
TM Zet is probably the most efficient and I do like their shock absorber system on the bolt catch, but the trigger is so mushy it just feels like a big pistol in terms of feel. Speaking of the trigger, it's a cartridge style with tons of sliding parts and if you grease it wrong it will fail to reset. G&P make aftermarket trigger parts including a drop in cassette but I'm not sure how much this improves feel. I had an M4 Block I Zet that I sold (because I got an offer, not because I was looking to get rid of it), and I still have my Prowin AR-9 Zet that uses TM G-series mags.

Biggest con for me aside from the trigger is the fact that their STANAGs are glossy and clink like ceramic bricks when they contact each other. If you don't mind that, they also make Type 89 mags that fit in the M4 too if you want something a little different.
See less See more
BLDC motors
BLDC = brushless direct current, this is an umbrella term. Direct current being how they are powered as opposed to AC induction motors in power tools or washing machines. You are definitely up to the mercy of the built-in ESC and its software running the brushless motor but the Perun likely drives all of them the same way.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
1 - 5 of 396 Posts