Whats that? You want to shoot farther then that crappy 100ft of stock gun range? You are tired of being outranged by Walmart springers? Want to unlock the sharpshooter inside you? Look no farther! First, what is a flathop and how does it work? Airsoft guns gain range due to a 'backspin' effect. A small rubber nub nicks the top of the BB, causing the top to decelerate, forcing the BB to spin. This pushes air under the BB, giving it lift, and more importantly, range. A stock hopup chamber applies hop via a rubber tube, running perpendicular to the barrel, and a soft rubber cylinder that contacts the BB(bucking). While this works, it is not the most effective way of applying hop. What the flathop does is lengthen the amount of time that the BB contacts the hop nub/bucking. Much like rubbing your arm down a wall for 10ft would be harder then dragging it for 3ft, the longer hopup applies more hop, and more range. Like most hopup mods, this works best with heavier BB's. .25's-.30's are the 'sweet spot' imho for a stock gun that has been flathopped. Lighter doesn't allow as much spin to be applied, heavier BB's start to lose range due to the sub 400FPS. Now that you have somewhat of an idea the principles behind this, its time to show you how to flathop your gun. *NOTE* The flathop will work best when also used in conjunction with the mods found in the teching and mods section. Compression and consistency are some of the major factors affecting your accuracy and range. First, dissemble your barrel group into these three parts: Hopup, Bucking, and Barrel. First, we will work on the Bucking, the hardest and most extensive part. Take your bucking and gently turn it inside out. There are a multitude of ways to do this, I like the pliers method best. Rubbing a *small* amount of grease on the OUTSIDE of the bucking will ease this process. Above all, do NOT tear the bucking. Insert your pliers on the opposite side of the lips, and gently but firmly grasp said lips. The slowly pull the lips down inside the bucking. Take it slowly and carefully, easing it down. Once you have done that, there are two areas we will grace with our attention. First is the hopup's "bump" built into most buckings: Second is the "line" built into all buckings. Now, we want to remove both of these, and make them flush with the rest of the bucking. Depending on your level of patience, you can use sandpaper(high patience) dremels(medium patience) or a sharp object like a knife or scissors(low patience). Be wary however, the faster you go, the more the chance of tearing the bucking. Regardless of the method, I have found that its easiest when the bucking is supported by the barrel. I use an extra barrel cut down to length, but you can also use the exit end of your own barrel, like so: Now here is how you want the 'bump' to look once you finish sanding/cutting it away. You do NOT need to get it perfectly smooth. It only needs to be flush with the rest of the barrel. Flip the bucking over and do the same to the 'line'. Again, perfectly smooth is not a must, just flush with the rest of the bucking. Once these have been done, you can invert your bucking to its right-side-out position. When looking down the bucking, it should be smooth on all sides. The bump on the right of this one is a tear, not a bump(used older bucking for guide).