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1,285 Posts
What's your inner barrel length and diameter?
Piston - Lonex Blue or Red. Blue is a little more forgiving, the material is softer and if you do get PME I'd rather have a blue in the gearbox than a red. That said, red is a much tougher material and if not the piston you build with now it might be the one you swap in later / for the long haul. SHS 14t is often recommended but personally I prefer a polymer pickup as it's not as 'shocking' as a metal-on-metal pickup in a high RPS build.
Piston Head - Laylax POM NEO is about the best I'm aware of. Light, excellent seal, and can take a real beating. The Lonex POM w/ an aluminum insert is a good choice as well, but personally I don't care for the extra weight nor having the head be a two-piece design if I'm going to be beating on it. Avoid the clones on evike, you get what you pay for.
Side note - bearings on the piston. A lot of folks will tell you not to run them, and for good reason (extra weight) but I personally found that tuning my DSG to run with bearings on both ends of the spring gave me a ~6% increase in RPS - well worth the extra effort! YMMV of course.
Cylinder - This one depends on the barrel and who you're asking. I have a ported cylinder in my DSG because my barrel is extremely short (~140mm) and as I don't need the extra volume the port allows the piston to return a bit quicker than it would otherwise - helping me avoid PME. Some will tell you that a non-ported cylinder is needed always since you're only using half the cylinder etc - which is true, but only if your barrel is long enough to need that much air! Volume matching is still a thing, even in a DSG build lol.
Cylinder Head - Personally prefer the Maxx cylinder head. Lonex would be a good second choice. The dampener on the Maxx is thinner and a little harder, the one on the Lonex is wider and a little softer. Harder is better over ~40rps in my opinion since there's less deformation in the dampener which means it's not as likely to get torn apart. Do not stick a sorbo pad in there - it will get torn the shreds.
Springs - a standard 'regular pitch' spring will probably be best for your build (assuming carbine length barrel) as the compression is more linear start to finish, but it is possible to run an irregular pitched spring if you use a spacer or bearing on both ends to increase the compression on it a bit. Adding a washer to the spring guide can be used to make small FPS gains - but don't add more than ~7mm and really watch out for binding. Modify SP springs seem to hold up pretty well, I've got a few seasons on an SP140 w/o issue.
ECU/ETU - do yourself a huge favor and get a programmable ETU in there. Aster is ok, Perun Hybrid would be my recommendation - being able to adjust the AB and precocking on your gun, not to mention that particular ETU having a DSG setting to aid in cycle detection, will make for a much MUCH better first DSG experience.
First build - pay extra close attention to your shimming, it really matters. Lube everything lightly, including the spring and inside the piston. Understand why you're trimming your tappet plate, not just that it needs to be trimmed some arbitrary amount. Get a strong tappet plate spring in there. Once it's assembled, test it with a 7.4v lipo so you can make sure there's no issues with the drivetrain; adjust the motor height at this time; run 2-3 full mags through the gun in semi on 7.4v and listen for anything that sounds wrong; after 2-3 mags, give it a burst of full auto on 7.4v and listen to your gun - if it's hurting, it'll tell you. If all that goes smooth, pop in an 11.1v and run a mag through in semi; fine tune the motor height; LISTEN TO YOUR GUN! If everything is solid, feels solid, sounds solid... flip the fun switch and go vrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Piston - Lonex Blue or Red. Blue is a little more forgiving, the material is softer and if you do get PME I'd rather have a blue in the gearbox than a red. That said, red is a much tougher material and if not the piston you build with now it might be the one you swap in later / for the long haul. SHS 14t is often recommended but personally I prefer a polymer pickup as it's not as 'shocking' as a metal-on-metal pickup in a high RPS build.
Piston Head - Laylax POM NEO is about the best I'm aware of. Light, excellent seal, and can take a real beating. The Lonex POM w/ an aluminum insert is a good choice as well, but personally I don't care for the extra weight nor having the head be a two-piece design if I'm going to be beating on it. Avoid the clones on evike, you get what you pay for.
Side note - bearings on the piston. A lot of folks will tell you not to run them, and for good reason (extra weight) but I personally found that tuning my DSG to run with bearings on both ends of the spring gave me a ~6% increase in RPS - well worth the extra effort! YMMV of course.
Cylinder - This one depends on the barrel and who you're asking. I have a ported cylinder in my DSG because my barrel is extremely short (~140mm) and as I don't need the extra volume the port allows the piston to return a bit quicker than it would otherwise - helping me avoid PME. Some will tell you that a non-ported cylinder is needed always since you're only using half the cylinder etc - which is true, but only if your barrel is long enough to need that much air! Volume matching is still a thing, even in a DSG build lol.
Cylinder Head - Personally prefer the Maxx cylinder head. Lonex would be a good second choice. The dampener on the Maxx is thinner and a little harder, the one on the Lonex is wider and a little softer. Harder is better over ~40rps in my opinion since there's less deformation in the dampener which means it's not as likely to get torn apart. Do not stick a sorbo pad in there - it will get torn the shreds.
Springs - a standard 'regular pitch' spring will probably be best for your build (assuming carbine length barrel) as the compression is more linear start to finish, but it is possible to run an irregular pitched spring if you use a spacer or bearing on both ends to increase the compression on it a bit. Adding a washer to the spring guide can be used to make small FPS gains - but don't add more than ~7mm and really watch out for binding. Modify SP springs seem to hold up pretty well, I've got a few seasons on an SP140 w/o issue.
ECU/ETU - do yourself a huge favor and get a programmable ETU in there. Aster is ok, Perun Hybrid would be my recommendation - being able to adjust the AB and precocking on your gun, not to mention that particular ETU having a DSG setting to aid in cycle detection, will make for a much MUCH better first DSG experience.
First build - pay extra close attention to your shimming, it really matters. Lube everything lightly, including the spring and inside the piston. Understand why you're trimming your tappet plate, not just that it needs to be trimmed some arbitrary amount. Get a strong tappet plate spring in there. Once it's assembled, test it with a 7.4v lipo so you can make sure there's no issues with the drivetrain; adjust the motor height at this time; run 2-3 full mags through the gun in semi on 7.4v and listen for anything that sounds wrong; after 2-3 mags, give it a burst of full auto on 7.4v and listen to your gun - if it's hurting, it'll tell you. If all that goes smooth, pop in an 11.1v and run a mag through in semi; fine tune the motor height; LISTEN TO YOUR GUN! If everything is solid, feels solid, sounds solid... flip the fun switch and go vrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
