Yeah I was like no way there's 4 coils off and still have this problem. Imma order a new nozzle. Got some stock plastic ones lying around, but their seal is pretty bad.
Yeah I was like no way there's 4 coils off and still have this problem. Imma order a new nozzle. Got some stock plastic ones lying around, but their seal is pretty bad.I do think your nozzle is too short.
And burping pressure early is going to cause your FPS fluctuations.
YesAre you referring to the seal between nozzle and air tube from cylinder?
All right so I cracked open my gb to swap the nozzle and found my tapppet return spring had snapped (most likely too much strain from the -4 coils). Changed the nozzle to a stock one and also changed the spring to a stock one (-2 coils). Chronoed my gun and fps was in the 360-340 range. I redid the tissue test and had the paper blown up. I'm guessing the spare tappet return spring I was forced to use is weaker, which is why the fps dropped and the gun's still leaking air. I don't know if I should just cut off another coil, or order another spring.Fluid Dynamics say that pressure loss via that direction is "irrelevant". Most people actually don't understand how "flow" moves.
All the top makers of AEG's know this and that is why their nozzles don't "seal". Krytac, Tokyo Marui, VFC...etc
Try is with any nozzle on hand...and see what you get.
O-Rings were used early on to address tolerance and alignment issue and not sealing issues...
There are so many things that are misconstrued in this sport....cough...bearing on spring guide and piston head...cough.
Thanks for that. I'll try it out when I get some time.Shouldn't need to touch the front of the tappet unless you've got some weird tolerance stacking going on. When I trim the tappet I open the gearbox, take the mainspring + tappet spring out, spin the gears by hand to manually pull the piston back, and adjust the tappet length such that it 'releases' when the piston is in contact with the last 1.5 - 2 teeth on the sector. Very small adjustments after that if feeding issues. If using active breaking on a neo motor might need to shape the bottom of the tappet slightly to avoid the opposite 'pickup' pin on the sector from crushing it.
Lmao it's shorter; I trimmed a bit off of it once.Was that an optical illusion or is it shorter?
Actually that's the busted one that broke cuz I took one too many off. I was wondering if I could use it still but I think I have my answer. Would trimming the sharp "cut in" piece off of the tappet plate be too much? According to your rough diagram, taking that whole part off would be the equivalent of taking all the green and purple off and them cutting a bit into the "yellow" section. Worst case I could see would be the nozzle kicking the bbs into the packing, but I could live with that...The sharp drop-off will break the tappet fin off the tappet eventually. It will also eat into it.
That tappet spring is too short. Only cut a couple coils off, too many and the spring weakens from being stretched and won't do its job as well anymore. It will also break sooner.