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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help! This it’s my first Dsg! I knew before I started that I would encounter problems but I can’t find a fix for this one. My tappet plate is getting chewed up by my sector gear. Does anyone know a fix for this?
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Yes, in fact pre-cocking requires the AR latch being installed as it's what will 'hold' the piston in place between shots.

Precocking is basically controlled 'overspin' where the piston cycles a little back after a shot, ideally just enough that the AR latch catches a tooth on the bevel gear and holds the piston in place so on the next cycle the piston doesn't need to travel as far.

With a DSG you generally don't run precocking because the stiffer spring means the load on your motor, bearings, etc, is a lot higher - but it absolutely can be done. If you want to do this, best to use a bevel gear that has AR latch teeth like the one on the right below - having more teeth here will allow you much finer control.
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edit: happy to help - that's what we're here for :)
 

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For a dsg you don't need ab or precocking typically, the overspin will halfway engage every time to be super snappy without the extra stress and heat.
Having the gears spin backwards wrecks a tappet In a dsg and some ssgs. It's a must part. All the spring tension was resting on your tappet fin.

Just because all the new mosfets have new features doesn't mean they are healthy or functional in every build.

Perun precocking uses ab to stop as well and should be avoided long term.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For a dsg you don't need ab or precocking typically, the overspin will halfway engage every time to be super snappy without the extra stress and heat.
Having the gears spin backwards wrecks a tappet In a dsg and some ssgs. It's a must part. All the spring tension was resting on your tappet fin.

Just because all the new mosfets have new features doesn't mean they are healthy or functional in every build.

Perun precocking uses ab to stop as well and should be avoided long term.
Didn’t know that, thanks dude!
 

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Yo may be surprised at how much has come into Airsoft that is not generally seen by the the US player base...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yo, i just got my AR latch and new tappet plate, its still trying to chew up the tappet (I test a few shots and checked the tappet plate and it had started to create a grove in the bottom). Would a delayer chip fix this? bc im completely clueless rn
 

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Could be your latch is grabbing late, IE the gears are able to spin back a little before the AR latch engages which allows the tappet pin to crush the fin a little. Fix by rotating your bevel (just the bevel) so the latch catches ~right after the piston is released.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hopefully the last problem. So. When i fire on semi the nozzle stays back and the tappet plate doesn't release, but when i fire on full it does. I believe that when its on semi and the the nozzle is back the tappet pin is grinding into the fin, so would rotating the bevel one more latch teeth fix this? I made sure to rotate it so that the latch catches right after the piston is released. Or is there something else i need to do?
 

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precocking on (should be off)? What level AB are you using (try max)? The Perun should do a pretty good job stopping the cycle at the right time, might just be a setting at fault here.
 

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Yep, try ~50% AB, higher if needed. Sounds like you're getting some overspin which is normal for high rps guns, AB is meant to help control this. It does increase wear a little, but not drastically.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Soooo. i dont know if this is good, but everything seems to be working perfectly now. I tried all my AB settings, and finally decided to try turning on precocking. Now its running perfectly at about 75% AB with precocking on. Thanks for the help!
 

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Wonder if your latch was still catching late, needs a little pre to get it into position so it'll catch? But hey, if it works - congrats on a successful build! You're now part of the 3% ;)
 
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