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First rifle build.

624 Views 42 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Guges Mk3
I am planning to do my first gun build soon, on the M110/SR-25 platform.

My end goal is to have a DMR that can reach out--accurately--to 100 feet or more and shoots at 400 (+/- 5)FPS with .25g BBs. Do you guys have any tips on how I should go about doing this?
Advice is greatly appreciated.
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All stock AEG can reach to 100' without modifications.

100' is only 33.33 yards. 90% of the stock AEG can reach out to 50 Yards from the box.

Now if you are trying to reach 100 yards. That is more of an effort. If your field DMR rule is 450fps with .20g. It's going to be a stretch to go 100 yards.

Not saying it's impossible...but you will be shooting floaters at that range and trying to hit the bleeding edge may not be worth the cost and effort...for at 95 yards...one can just step or duck out of the way of the bb as long as they see it coming in...

You should focus on getting the bb to 80 yards with a DMR quickly and accurately...which a V2-L mechbox is suited for (if you truly have a V2L type) mechbox. Leave 100 yards to the 550fps+ long guns with MED rules.
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I have built an SR25 using HPA airstock. I’ll share what I did, and you can decide if this will fit your budget/needs. I took a Boneyard SR25 and parted it together. There was some dremeling and and filing. I put a Polarstar Kythera for the V2L mech box in it, and I use an Umbrella Armory R-hopped barrel w/ UA’s Maxx hopup(they sell it with an Rhop specific arm, but the drawback is bbs need to be ≥.30 grams). THe air source comes from the P* UGS regulator stock for TM style receivers. The setup shoots very well, but it is definitely not a cheap setup. I was lucky to find a boneyard donar for cheap(les than the cost of an outer barrel, hand guard, and mech box). It came with a mech box(quality is not as important on an HPA build here, as long as it’s straight). The barrel and sights were good, but the reciever was in four pieces and plastic.(Upper reciever was 2 plastic peices held together by the rail). I picked up the Matrix aluminum reciever set on sale for ≈$40 to replace it. That was the cheap parts.

The benefits of this build are FPS versatility and noise signature being very low. As it is very quiet, and the regulator adjusts the fps by a set screw on the ‘buffer tube’. I can run this setup from 250 fps to 550 fps without taking anything apart. Two other benefits I found are the trigger on the Kythera is more realistic than other HPA/AEG triggers, and there are absolutely no electronics on the gun.

The drawbacks are the price, and limiting source for air. I overcame the air source issue by purchasing a home filling station. Those have gone up in price since I purchased mine. The outdoor field I play at does sell air fills for ≈$10 day pass, since their main source of income is their paintball players. Some others have purchased scuba tanks, and go to dive shops and use a fill adaptor on the scuba tank to fill their other tanks. But that is another issue with the HPA world.

More economical approach would be to do an AEG build. I don’t know much about the aeg gearbox builds, but with what the guys on here talk about, they can perform just as well(some say better) than an HPA setup. With quick change spring setups on gearboxes now a days, you can swap out the springs with minimal disassembly. You will still have to remove the ‘buffer tube‘, but if you have built up your own Gearbox, this is a very little thing. Either setups, always start with a high quality(not necessarily tightbore) barrel with good hopup packing and nub.


So help us a little more here, what’s your budget to do this build?
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My budget is $500, although it can be stretched to about 570 if need be.
I took a Boneyard SR25 and parted it together.
Would this be better than buying a base gun to work with?
Finding the "correct" boneyard SR-25 is not that simple.
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For $500 total you're probably better off going AEG. Any idea which model of SR-25 you like?
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Any idea which model of SR-25 you like?
Do you mean specific brand model like an A&K or a G&G, or do you mean the way the gun looks?
Either case...you want one with a V2 Long Mechbox...anything less than that is a detriment.
That's the same as an "extended gearbox", right?
Yes.
So I should buy a base gun with a V2 long mechbox and continue from there. Are there any specific guns would you recommend I build off of?
AEG's with long mechboxes are slim to none.

Only option is the SR25...but then...you will have a very limited magazine selection for that platform...
I think the G&G is a standard v2 box, with a specialized hopup unit to make the distance up. So I would look into that one a little more, before making it the choice….
My budget is $500, although it can be stretched to about 570 if need be.

Would this be better than buying a base gun to work with?
No, not unless you really know what you’re getting, or don’t mind a lot of modding the externals. The problem with boneyard finds now, is that the guys selling them have decided they can make money off of them, and they are no longer that much cheaper than the brand new in box models. Plus there’s always a gamble that the parts you are looking for are not on the boneyard model anymore. It’s buyer beware and sight unseen, so you would be taking a gamble. And with your budget, you probably don’t want to have to chase down unknown missing parts.
A&K and Cyma Platinum are probably your two best options. I'd suggest the Cyma Plat as being easier to work on, but the trigger units are known to burn out rather quickly, which is an annoying issue. A&K has the downside of being older, lower quality internals, and not being a QC spring.

The one thing is the Cyma uses a ported cylinder, so you'll need to source a full cylinder right off the bat, if you want to gain the advantages of the platform.
I'd suggest the Cyma Plat as being easier to work on, but the trigger units are known to burn out rather quickly, which is an annoying issue.

The one thing is the Cyma uses a ported cylinder, so you'll need to source a full cylinder right off the bat, if you want to gain the advantages of the platform.
Is the trigger burnout a problem with the gearbox or is it something else? I've only opened a gearbox one time, and that one time ended with me having to get a new primary since I had no idea what I was doing. So I am very hesitant to open up another gearbox.

What are the differences between a ported and a full cylinder? Keep in mind, this is my very first build ever. The gun I currently have has only been taken apart to swap out the inner barrel and the hop-up packing, and to reconnect a couple wires.
Is the trigger burnout a problem with the gearbox or is it something else? I've only opened a gearbox one time, and that one time ended with me having to get a new primary since I had no idea what I was doing. So I am very hesitant to open up another gearbox.

What are the differences between a ported and a full cylinder? Keep in mind, this is my very first build ever. The gun I currently have has only been taken apart to swap out the inner barrel and the hop-up packing, and to reconnect a couple wires.
So, the trigger burnout is an issue with Cyma's ETU (Electronic Trigger Unit) being not so hot.

The difference is related to air volume. Your rifle needs to have enough air to propel the BB weight you choose--heavier BBs need more air, so SR-25s with a longer cylinder have an advantage on propelling heavy BBs--the longer cylinder is more efficient. Ported means there's a hole part of the way down to let air escape in front of the piston.

What are you looking to get out of this build exactly?
What are you looking to get out of this build exactly?
A DMR with a high FPS (400+) with heavier BBs, good range, and accuracy. This will be a gun that I use at milsims, so it will also have to be semi-locked. The reason I'm picking the SR-25 platform instead of just upgrading the gun I have is because that gun is almost perfect for CQB, and I've always liked the chunkier look of .308 ARs.

Essentially, I want to take a stock rifle and do a bunch of internal work so that it shoots and functions way better, and so that I can have experience to be able to eventually build a gun from the ground up.
A DMR with a high FPS (400+) with heavier BBs, good range, and accuracy. This will be a gun that I use at milsims, so it will also have to be semi-locked. The reason I'm picking the SR-25 platform instead of just upgrading the gun I have is because that gun is almost perfect for CQB, and I've always liked the chunkier look of .308 ARs.

Essentially, I want to take a stock rifle and do a bunch of internal work so that it shoots and functions way better, and so that I can have experience to be able to eventually build a gun from the ground up.
Then you'll probably be needing to do gearbox work--If you don't find yourself comfortable with that there are some good workarounds, but for a full setup things like a spring change, compression check, shimming check... replace whatever parts needed.

For semi-locking, do you plan to fit an ETU like the Perun Hybrid into your budget?
You will need to open your mechbox and change something that looks like this:

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Cylinder Household hardware Nickel


Which entails a complete tear down of the mechbox. Of which you stated that you don't want to do...thus you will not be able to put together a custom DMR....
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