First Time Gearboxing

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by SlenderKen, Dec 9, 2012.

  1. SlenderKen

    SlenderKen New Member

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    Orange County
    I really want to build a high speed (20-30 rps with a 9.6v) Version 6 Gearbox for my CA90TR Proline, and also make it fire around 330-350. I don't know where to start though! Upon doing research, I think I found the components necessary to crafting a gearbox.

    Includes:
    - V6 Gearbox Shell (OEM Gearbox Shell I guess? I can't find another one)
    - Motor Holder for Gearbox
    - Cylinder (Do I get a ported one or a fully sealed one if running 363-407 TBB)
    - Cylinder Head (V6 Green one, I think it's lonex branded)
    - Air Nozzle (Suggestions? Guarder Maybe?)
    - Piston (Lonex or AIM, which one is better?
    - Piston Head (Unsure of which brand to use// Metal vs Plastic)
    - Gears (AIM vs Lonex?)
    - Long Motor Type (GnP m120 vs GnP m170 vs Lonex)
    - Anti Reversal Latch (ASG, unless there are better ones)
    - Sorbo Pads (Thickness...? Not sure, Hardness should be 40 instead of 70 I think)
    - Sorbo Protector Pad (3/16 Thickness. 40 Hardness)
    - Spring Guide (V6 ASG)

    Also, will I need:
    - Ball bearings (Suggestions?)
    - Shims (Any 7mm one?)
    - Tappet Plate (King Arms?)
    - Wires (WHICH ONE WORKS WITH A P90?)
    - Springs (M90-M110?)
    - Selector plate (Suggestions?)
    - Bushings (V6 Guarder)
    - Do I need those above?
    - Do I need anything else?

    Another quick question:
    - Would a 407mm TBB fit in a http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=37559 (155mm Mock Suppressor)

    Answers would be MUCH appreciated. I will be heading out to ASGI next weekend for some small parts. And order from Evike and Clandestine. So please respond quickly somebody! My AoE may not be the best, but I am just hoping for a rapid deployment P90 for CQB, with a custom 9.6v battery wired to Tamiya (I have little to no experience with working in gearboxes and I know it's a lot of work, but I don't mind spending several long hours contracting a gearbox together, so PLEASE add as much insight and detail as possible without using too many technical terms). Thank you!
     
  2. pancakemix56

    pancakemix56 New Member

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    Boston
    Based on my experience THE BEST way to go about upgrading a gun, is do all the "do it yourself mods" before buying parts. If you can make the gun run as smooth as possible, then you put in parts, it works out the best. Of course don't shim if you will buy a new set of gears. But my point is, do as much as you can before you buy parts, you'll be glad you did.
     

  3. SlenderKen

    SlenderKen New Member

    252
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    Orange County
    I'm scared of stripping my piston or my gears. Should I still get a new cylinder, cylinder head, gears, motor, air nozzles, piston, piston head, and sorbo pads?

    It's also because my gun double feeds on full auto (ever since I received it) and nobody knows you're to resolve the issue. So I thought maybe I could upgrade it to solve that problem.
     
  4. averageairsofter

    averageairsofter New Member

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    Menifee
    Double feeding is a common issue with p90s(especially on the high caps) because the magazine is on top. Upgrading the gun will not fix your issue but maybe a new hop-up chamber might? I'm not very experienced with p90s so hopefully a more knowledgeable tech will come along and help. You might want to pm alex, he knows every thing there is to know about p90s and hes a great tech.
     
  5. SlenderKen

    SlenderKen New Member

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    Orange County
    I sort of talked to Alex, but not about double feeding. The problem isn't the mag though. It misfeeds with mid caps and hi caps, but it double feeds with a box mag. It fires perfectly on semi and has a metal hopup. I tried different buckings with the tech, but it served me no good.
    Apart from that, I still want to up my rate of fire haha, should I keep the stock gears and other parts and exchange a motor for a G&P m120 one? Or should I got G&P m170 ($38 vs 77$)
     
  6. averageairsofter

    averageairsofter New Member

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    Menifee
    G&P motors are pretty bad, not really any better than your stock motor. The JG blue has incredible torque and the lonex titan a1 or a2 are more balanced but still have a good amount of toque any of these motors will be a great option.
     
  7. EuroGirl

    EuroGirl New Member

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    I beg to differ. I had a G&P magpul m4 and the motor in that was amazing......such high rof!
     
  8. Archer627

    Archer627 New Member

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    Figgington
    Lol. They're pretty bad. They like to shed windings and overheat. It's a ferrous motor as well. Run a Lonex a3 and you'll think the G&P's speed motors are crap. Neo motors or nothing!
     
  9. SlenderKen

    SlenderKen New Member

    252
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    Orange County
    I went by reviews haha. I'll probably go with lonex, but I also want a motor that won't go over 30 rps and won't strip my gears, so if I get lonex... Do I buy it off of clandestine or is there another retailer that sells lonex motors? I'd prefer gi or evike, but they don't carry it. Sooo.. Where do I go? I live in SoCal if that makes a difference
     
  10. EuroGirl

    EuroGirl New Member

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    Awe makes me sad. I thought it was a good motor, but yet again I only played three games with it lol.
     
  11. Archer627

    Archer627 New Member

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    Figgington
    Just buy from clandestine. It's one of the best retailers IMO. If you don't want to go over 30 RPS, just get a torque motor or balanced motor with 18:1 ratio gears (stock gear ratio).
     
  12. Mystery43_4

    Mystery43_4 New Member

    1,307
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    Santa Barbara
    Are you actually a female? It would be a little creepy if you aren't.
    Edit: Nevermind, read your intro. Crisis=Averted

    Anyhow, G&P M120's suck. The M170/80/90/20/50/90's are good motors, just very expensive without a jump in performance over more competitively priced motors.

    I've fried 2 M120's so far. They're pretty quick for a ferrous magnet motor, but have a terrible wind up time and can't handle high voltage too well. They're great to use as a built in hand warmer for those winter players out there though.

    Lonex is definitely the way to go. As far as a motor that won't strip your gears, that's like saying I want a dirt bike that won't break my neck if I crash it.... If you don't want anything to break and you don't want to tune anything, then run a Lonex A2 on a 7.4v. If you want to tune it then you can run it on 11.1 and hit right under 30RPS.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2012
  13. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    A Lonex A1 should land right in the middle of your ROF area pulling an M110 spring with a 7,4v li-po. Yes, 7,4v li-po, throw that old relic of ancient battery technology in the garbage and get yourself a compact, strong and reliable li-po battery.

    G&P M120 motors are fast, but have almost no torque. They work well for stock guns, but are simply too underpowered and inefficient for any serious builds. And for your other parts questions, you can't go wrong with Lonex parts. They may cost a bit more, but they are very high quality.
     
  14. SlenderKen

    SlenderKen New Member

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    Orange County
    I know 7.4 lipos are stronger than 9.6v batteries, but aren't lipos more difficult to handle? If I use a 9.6, will it be strong enough to shoot over 20 rps? And if I run a 7.4, will I need a mosfet? So.. if I get lonex 16:1 ratio gears (idk what the ratio stands for) and then a motor (do I get the long type a1, a2, or a3) then that's all I need?
     
  15. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I actually find li-po's easier to live with, they are more reliable, they hold their charge better and be charged faster. You don't need a mosfet with a 7,4v li-po, unless your motor for some reason draws a ton of current, you can even run 11,1v li-po's without a mosfet if you have good trigger contacts and the motor draws low current. It actually takes severe abuse or extreme neglect to make a li-po battery combust, the same level of abuse or neglect would make ni-mh batteries turn nasty too.

    A Lonex A1 should get the job done extremely well in your setup. The 16:1 ratio gears give a slightly faster ROF than standard ratio gears.
     
  16. SlenderKen

    SlenderKen New Member

    252
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    Orange County
    I usually play indoors and my charge lasts all day, but yeah.. I heard lipos are like flammable and get severely damaged when the charge falls below 20 percent. also, works it fit into a p90 buttstock? I don't want to invest in an extended buttstock o:
     
  17. Archer627

    Archer627 New Member

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    Figgington
    All batteries are flammable if charged incorrectly.
     
  18. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    You can easily find a "brick type" li-po that fits inside a P90. Just look through the 2 cell li-po's at Hobbyking, and find one with measurements that fit. Li-po's are flammable if you connect to the wall outlet or hammer a nail through them, they aren't nearly as volatile as many people think. A ni-mh battery will get damaged too if you over discharge it, you know, and they can explode too if overcharged or abused. Ni-mh batteries actually produce hydrogen gas if overcharged, so they aren't completely harmless either.
     
  19. SlenderKen

    SlenderKen New Member

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    Orange County
  20. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    You'll probably do high 20's with those gears and the A1 motor with a 7,4v li-po, so pretty moderate ROF really. The trigger response will be excellent though.