Airsoft Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so here's the issue: I have a JG G36, and it's my main gun. I absolutely love the thing, but just last month I lost a skirmish because it jammed at a critical moment. It seems like ever since then, I've had it jam every time I use it, no matter which magazine I use, and which brand of BB. I disassembled the barrel after the 5th jam, and I could find nothing wrong with the barrel, hop up, or nozzle. All were completely clean. I don't use .12 BBs, and no matter which brand of .2s I use, it shoots about 15 shots fine, then it shoots 3 BBs at the same time, then it just quits. And the mags seam just fine. Any help would be very appreciated. Thanks.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, so the nozzle is all the way back when I'm not pulling the trigger, and goes forward, fires, and goes all the way back again. I'm not very familiar with the exact feeding procedure, but wouldn't that allow BBs to flood the chamber?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Could be the tappet, could be the nozzle, could be both.

Things like this rarely happen unless you shoot your gun while it's jammed or something.

A simple test to figure out what is causing the problem would be to push back the nozzle of the gun.
If you can push it back and it doesn't spring back forward, it's the nozzle; it is either broken or no longer attached to the tappet plate. Or, your tappet plate is broken on the nozzle connection area.
If you can push it back and there is resistance, it springs back forward, and you are absolutely positive the nozzle does not move when the gun fires, your tappet plate or sector gear is broken.

If you CANT push it back, make sure your nozzle isn't already retracted. You can do this by pulling your trigger very fast and have it complete only a 1/2 gearbox cycle. If the nozzle stays in that position, then your tappet spring is broken or misplaced or your nozzle is not connected to the tappet plate.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I can't push it back when it's at the back side of the cycle, and it does spring back when I push it back when it's forward. And now my 3rd string gun (JG AUG) is also jamming. I am very upset at JG. Next time I'm getting something with a better reputation ( even though JG has a pretty good one ( I'm thinking ICS, SRC, or G&G)). But back on topic, if anyone has any ideas, they'd be appreciated. The Barrel, hopup, Chamber, mags, and BBs are all kept painstakingly clean, so I'm almost positive it has something to do with the nozzle/gearbox. My main question as of now is: Is the nozzle supposed to stay back when you aren't shooting, or stay forward. And I don't think it has anything to do with the nozzle being locked forward. A) there's about 9 BBs stuck in the back of the barrel when I clear the jam, and B) I see the nozzle cycling. I'd love to fix them up, so I can have my main guns, or at the very least have them be usable and just sell them off cheap to cut my losses.
 

· Airsoft Jedi Master
Joined
·
5,875 Posts
What kind of mags do you use, high, mid, or low capacity?

If it is high caps, check to see if they release the bb's correctly when manually emptied. it could be the mag is feeding them too fast, this is also possible with the other types because the spring may be pushing too hard.

However, it sounds more like you're getting a bb that sticks and by the time you realize you're jammed, you've already added several more to it. What brand of bb's do you use?

As for JG, I have a SIG 550 and it works great, it just needed some TLC to get it back to working condition after it got shattered during its first game. But it is still kicking.

Keep the info coming and we'll see what we can do.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I use Hi-Caps, and I wouldn't know how to know if the BBs were feeding too fast. With the G36, it happens no matter if I use the drum mag or the hicap. Me shooting after the jam seems plausible, since I use darker BBs usually. I mostly use those ultrasonic BBs (I hate paying shipping so I try to stay local) But that still wouldn't explain how the BBs always jam after about 3 shots with the AUG and 15 with the G36. It happens before I have to wind the magazines on either of those. But also note that I've shot multiple types of BBs, and none jammed my Thompson, which has gone through 2000 BBs from the same cases as the other two without jamming once. Now granted, the Thompson made my wallet lighter than the other two combined, and it seems better designed, but that still seems like no excuse for the other guns to jam every time they're shot. The fact that I got mowed down last weekend by a bunch of backyarders with LPEGs (I thought I fixed the G36 jam then, so I only brought that and my Mac11 (that I forgot the gas for). So guess what happened when I caught them cornered in a valley (I can tell it's jammed because it makes a low sound, as opposed to the high pitched "I'm empty!" noise, in case that helps)) Man, I got off track. But yeah, anything helps. Thanks everyone.
 

· Airsoft Jedi Master
Joined
·
5,875 Posts
By Ultrasonics, do you mean those bright neon see thru green bb's? JUNK!

Always use good quality seamless bb's and at least .20g's. If it is made by Crosman and it aint a Crosman gun, don't use it. It might not be cool to have to wait, but the higher quality bb's are worth it. Perfects, P-Force, Javelin, and a few others are 100 times better than those you buy at WalMart.

What brand is your Thompson? Knowing this might help to explain why it doesn't jam when the other two do.

On my team, we use P-Force .25g's, we tested five different brands and these were the top rated of all the ones we tested. They gave us the least amount of issues, performed the best overall, and were reasonably priced. We have been buying them through Airsoft Megastore or AirsoftGI for about $40/ 3 bags. If you would like to see the test results, e-mail me at the address in my sig.

As for your jamming issues, I would try to use some different, higher quality bb's and see if it still jams, if so, then you have some serious issues and should take it to a professional. If not, problem solved. If you don't want to buy them online, ask a friend that uses something other than WalMart types to borrow a "cup" and see if that helps.

By the way, where do you live, knowing this might help me to direct you to a local Airsoft store, I've got a long list of them and can always find more.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I get the ultrasonic .2s. It's not ideal, but it's most convenient (Big 5). My Thompson is a Cybergun, AKA a CYMA they slapped 3 25 cent decals on, and charged me 50 bucks more for. But I had a gigantic stash of Big 5 Gift cards, so my feet were pretty tied. As far as the BBs go, they shot just as well as some pretty fancy brand I got for comparrison, so I stuck with them and didn't have any issues until now. I'm going to order a high quality gun, so I'll probably get some better BBs then. But keep in mind, according to someone who posted earlier, my nozzle is cycling in the wrong order. So I need to know what to do to fix that. Now is probably a good time to get around to ordering some new stuff anyway, since I have had a lot of capital freed up lately. But I really want to get the AUG fixed up, so that I can sell it off (I just can't stand the (lack of) accuracy when it is working) Get the ~$100 I'll ask for it, and that way I can get a spare mag for that G&G M14 I'm lookin' at, pay shipping, and get some better BBs. Oh, and I live out in the country, and the closest city (Castle Rock, CO) is 25 miles away. Big 5 is the best retailer anywhere near me. So P-Force BBs are recommended? Back on topic, is there any way I can get the nozzle to cycle normally again?
 

· Airsoft Jedi Master
Joined
·
5,875 Posts
On the situation of the Thompson, Cybergun is not one of the better class of manufactures, in fact, they aren't even Cybergun, they are Palco Sports. No offense, but cheap gun + cheap bb's = decent operations.

As for the nozzle thing, IF you think you can do it, I say IF because you really need to be inclined towards this kind of thing, take the gun apart. Pull out the gear box and cycle it through a few operations outside of the gun where you can see what is really going on. In single fire mode, the piston should return to the forward location after each pull of the trigger. This means the nozzle should be in the full forward position as well.

If it is not, take the gear box apart, and be very, very, very careful doing this as the spring is under tension and has a bad habit of popping out and shooting across the room if you are not careful. This is also when half the other parts jump out and now you have no idea where they go.

One technique I use to disassemble a gear box is to remove all but two of the screws, one on each of two opposing corners. Hold the gear box together with one finger of one hand as you remove the last two screws. I generally will push down on the exposed piston casing, it will be the piece that doesn't look like cheap pot metal as the rest of the gearbox does.

Once the last two screws are out, keeping pressure on the piston, carefully seperate the two halves of the gear box, use your free hand and reach in with a finger or two and press down on the main spring to keep it in place. Now remove your finger from the piston and use that hand to remove the rest of the gearbox half.

Carefully remove the main spring from the end of the gearbox opposite the piston, you don't have to take it completely out, just enough to release the tension, leave it in place otherwise.

At the other end of the gearbox, where the nozzle is, you will need to check a few things. First the nozzle itself. Is it broke, or damaged? If not, cool.

Next, the tappet plate, it is a long "L" shape plastic piece that goes from the nozzle back past the trigger and piston and ends at the first gear you come to behind the trigger. Is it broken or damaged? If not, great. There should be a small spring attached to it, make sure it is not broken and that it is attached and that it is also attached to the body of the gearbox. If so, good.

Next, look to see if the tappet plate and the nozzle are properly seated to each other. You do this by checking where they meet. The tappet plate has that "L" shape and the end near the nozzle has a "U" cut out of it, this "U" has a groove in it that the nozzle rests in, if the nozzle slips out, it will not cycle properly. This is most likely your problem.

If all this is good, and everything checks out, then the issue is more than likely your hop up, or your feed tube. Although I'm still betting on the bb's being part of the issue no matter what.

When you reassemble the gear box, do so in the reverse order as you disassembled it. Carefully replace the main spring, holding it down until you can get the gearbox half in place to hold it for you. Keep the piston held down, which will hold the main spring down, and align all the openings on the gerabox with all the "axles" from the gears and the other points in the gearbox. Pay close attention to the anti-kickback lever, it is located generally behind the last and lowest gear in the gearbox. It is a real pain to line up and put back in place if it comes out because there is a small spring that must be in place for it to work. If this is misaligned in any way, your gun will not work right.

Once everything is aligned back up and the gearbox halves mate together seamlessly, hold it together while you replace the last two screws you removed, then once they are in place, finish replacing the rest.

Plug a battery up and give it a test fire, if it works, great, if not, you're going to have to do it all over again to find out what is not in its proper place.

There is a website that has a lot of these gearbox disassemblies on video, I will link to it for your convienence. Otherwise, hope this helps.

Mechbox.com | Airsoft repair and upgrades
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top