Gate Titan wires heating up.

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by Squad144, May 7, 2021.

  1. Squad144

    Squad144 Member

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    OK guys, I went into my ca416 and re shimmed the gearbox. Got it nice and perfect. So I installed the motor grip, plugged in my Tienly, and a 7.4 25c 50c. This is under no stress, just running the gears and the anti reversal latch. I semi spammed it for about a minute. Now since it is not pulling anything, I thought I would have no heat. WRONG! The motor heated up terribly as did the wires and the lipo. I can post videos demonstrating my shimming and the motor running the gears if that would help. Has this happened to anyone else?
     
  2. ma_airsoft

    ma_airsoft Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I have burnt out, or worked on guns from others that burnt out, about 10 titans in the last 3 years. I run into an issue where the boards short out over time, usually after the one year warranty of course.

    They usually don’t generate heat before doing so. This seems like a pairing issue. post a video fully assembled and under load and we can try diagnosing it.

    Also, make sure active braking is set to zero, as well as precock, rof control.
     

  3. Squad144

    Squad144 Member

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    I just got the mosfet a couple of months ago so I cant imagine that it has already broken. I can not set active brake to zero, it just tells me to set it manually or adaptive. I have always kept it at adaptive and as for the other settings, I have precocking set to off and rof control set to off. I broke my signal wire because my motor shredded the wire when being pulled out so how should fix that problem. I can solder the wire back together. Just do not know if it is the right thing to do. And how can I prevent my motor from grabbing it again. It just does not want to stay put.

    I will post a video when I get it working again.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2021
  4. danerd

    danerd Well-Known Member

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    Splice in a new section of wire between the shredded ends. I like to encase the wires that run along the bottom of the V2 pinion hole in a piece of heatshrink to help prevent the them from getting damaged. I also will dremel out the space for the wires and make them a tad wider if needbe.
     
    ma_airsoft likes this.
  5. ma_airsoft

    ma_airsoft Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I also dremel out a channel usually if i have to repair a harness and then use a tiny bit if glue on the wires just to be safe. Only a tiny bit though so i can remove it if need be without harming anything.

    Personally I’d try replacing the bad section with more 22gauge signal wire. Would not recommend shortening the harness and just reconnecting the two broken pieces.
     
  6. Squad144

    Squad144 Member

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    Well really what it did was cut straight through the middle. So I stripped the sheath and just resoldered the wires. Nice and clean solder joint so it stays the same diameter of the 22awg wire. Then I just put a generous length of heat shink on. I hope that will protect it somewhat.

    About dremeling. How much and where should I dremel? Pics would be nice.

    I am getting my new cylinder and cylinder head on Monday. I will reassemble the gearbox then and post a video on this thread for you guys that day or the next day so that we can finally answer the original question this thread is about!
     
  7. ma_airsoft

    ma_airsoft Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Rather crude example as I dont have a build in front of me right now but you hopefully get the idea.

    I typically remove as much material from the rectangle portion without putting a hole in the shell. All I’m trying to do is give myself more room. Anything I gain is better than what it was before, and doing it this way I have never sliced a wire.

    I also occasionally widen the channels on the sides too, but usually only if i struggle to get the wires in nicely, or i cant lay them down nicely in the rectangular area.

    Another option is to make a channel for the wires but doing that by hand is a little too complex for me.

    IMG_1620520816.934063.jpg

    Also, set braking to manual and then turn it to zero percent. I bet that will greatly help with heat.
     
  8. Squad144

    Squad144 Member

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    Ok so just take a sanding bit and shave the metal down a bit. I can do that.

    Ah I did not think of that! Thanks for the help!
     
  9. Ben3721

    Ben3721 Well-Known Member

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    What part of it burned out? If the mosfet fails they typically stay on and go full auto until the battery is removed. If it just stops shooting then its likely the controller inside it somehow failed.

    Most mosfets have a piggy back tvs diode to handle forward voltage spikes that are over the mosfets specs. But most lack reverse voltage protection, when a motor "stops" it becomes a generator sending voltage backwards, which creates an arc between the disconnection or if there is a mosfet involved, slowly damages the mosfet until it fails. A cheap schottky flyback diode on the motor can clamp this voltage back into the motor protecting the mosfet, while it can be on a mosfet, its typically overlooked.

    Someone else may be able to word that with better terminology...

    Another way to kill a mosfet is to have a weak gate connection (crappy trigger connection) or just dead short it till it shoots the magical black smoke and dies.
     
    aotsukisho likes this.
  10. aotsukisho

    aotsukisho Well-Known Member

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    You did ok Ben.

    Motors stopping do not produce current, motors in motion do. You're referring to removing power from the motor, which causes inductive kickback that needs to be clamped to prevent damage to components - that energy is absorbed somewhere. Note that a Schottky diode across the motor terminals should not be used with active braking.
     
  11. Squad144

    Squad144 Member

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    Ocean Springs
    Ok so I do not feel the wires heating up anymore. The battery does not heat up anymore either. the motor gets warm but I suspect that is just because it is a Tienly 35k. I just re-shimmed and I am pretty confident in my shimming. Chupacabra Outdoor did a video on bevel to pinion shimming. I followed it exactly and got the exact same results (my gears did everything his did). So I have complete confidence in my shimming. I think whatever the problem was, it fixed itself. I will post here again if I encounter the problem again.