Gun only feeds when I turn active break on slightly. I have tried trimming tappet plate coil, then I tried delayer chip, then I got a adjustable nozzle and tried every size. Nothing worked, I am gonna try trimming the tappet plate itself now. The sector gears i have are short stroked 3 teeth and the other is 4 teeth. Neither will feed. Do I need to short stroke my piston? How do I get my timing to be correct? Thanks
these are my parts
Brushless 36k warhead motor
13:1 SHS
M140 spring
Lonex bearings
Lonex gearbox
Shs piston metal rack
Polycarbonate piston head
Maxx adjustable air nozzle
Leviathan optical
2200mah specktrum battery 30c
Im using the SHS delayer chip. The bucking is seated perfectly and I believe your correct about the active break causing the nozzle to be sitting open. I've adjusted to nozzle small enough to the point where it feeds even without a delayer chip or active break but then its so small it doesn't allow it get a good air seal. The tappet is definitely getting pulled back because when I turn active break on the nozzle stops completely retracted.
This is what makes no sense to me, the nozzle is 100% going back and being full retracted, it's almost like
It goes back so fast tho that the bbs can't feed in time. My cycle time
Is 33ms, I don't know If this is considered fast or not. I'm using pts epm and epm1 mags rn, they feed perfectly fine on this exact Setup at 40 rps full auto yet never want to feed in semi unless active breaked.
Brushless is not there yet....when you have a 45K motor that is conventional...and a bit faster.
More marketing BS to fleece the Airsoft population:
"Brushed motors are notorious for having parts that get worn out after a while, requiring frequent dismantling and parts replacement. This is because the brushes of the commutator need to maintain almost constant contact with the terminals of the power source, even as the commutator rotates rapidly. When brushes get worn out and can no longer maintain contact, a brushed DC motor basically becomes useless."
I really don't like this company now...I could buy 3 45K motors for the same price and have it last 8 years...and have 20.00 left over.
And they sell SHS gears for 40.00...oh yeah...late comer to the fleecing event.
Lol I bought this motor for the semi auto response not the "36k". It's so much faster then any of my 28 tpa motors in semi and insanely efficient with the amp draw. I get like 2x or 3x more shots on one charge. I came here for feeding help not to get **** on for buying a brushless motor lol
Getting poop for buying a brushless motor...no, that is not the intent of my comment. Charging you $200.00 for a new "fangled" motor...that is drawing my ire.
To many unscrupulous vendors.
Here's the thing...no one has ever quantified "trigger response time".
Granted it's not easily measured. You can get exceptional trigger response one of "two" ways, now 3 with a brushless motor.
HT Motor and HS Gears.
HS Motor and STD Gears.
And for some...HS Motor with HS gears.
Additional factors is battery capability, MOSFET pre-cocking...and a few other tricks depending on platform.
Back 8 years ago, I dropped the first 45K motor into a Stock G&P and ran it on a 2S LIPO. First P* guy I shot it against thought I was using HPA. Then he test fired it and said..."oh...my god, the Trigger Response...what did you do???" Uh...just dropped in a new motor...
So, if your happy with what you have...that is all that matters.
But, the issue with our industry...to many "lemmings"...there is more than one way to get TR and more knowledge is power...and good for the limited budget pocket books.
Getting poop for buying a brushless motor...no, that is not the intent of my comment. Charging you $200.00 for a new "fangled" motor...that is drawing my ire.
To many unscrupulous vendors.
Here's the thing...no one has ever quantified "trigger response time".
Granted it's not easily measured. You can get exceptional trigger response one of "two" ways, now 3 with a brushless motor.
HT Motor and HS Gears.
HS Motor and STD Gears.
And for some...HS Motor with HS gears.
Additional factors is battery capability, MOSFET pre-cocking...and a few other tricks depending on platform.
Back 8 years ago, I dropped the first 45K motor into a Stock G&P and ran it on a 2S LIPO. First P* guy I shot it against thought I was using HPA. Then he test fired it and said..."oh...my god, the Trigger Response...what did you do???" Uh...just dropped in a new motor...
So, if your happy with what you have...that is all that matters.
But, the issue with our industry...to many "lemmings"...there is more than one way to get TR and more knowledge is power...and good for the limited budget pocket books.
Look man I got it 140 and respect to whatever your opinions of my motor and other motors out there but I'm really just looking to get help on feeding and I don't want this thread to get off topic.
Cycle time and feed time don't completely correlate. The cycle speed and overspin changes a lot about trigger response. Overspin can be when a round loads, which is when the aeg is cycling slowly or it even stops open like I said.
I would check your mags and bbs.
Also those motors are substantially better than brushed motors in performance. Im going to have to disagree with guges on that.. I do not know how they do it, I tried some rc brushless motors a year ago and it didn't work out. However I've seen over a dozen builds using those brushless motors pulling crazy fast ssg and dsg builds on high speed gears. Some of them with weaker small 2 cell lipos. All without overheating and burning like a brushed motor can. I think the main advantage is the battery size, a shorter smaller gun can run as if you are a brick lipo on the side without the bulk.
However they are very expensive and they have more failure points than a brushed motor. I've only seen one however fail, it was a broken shaft which I'd say is due to horrible shimming by the user. Time will tell, but so far they seem to last.
Maybe if they become more common, supply and demand will get them down to a price worth getting.
Mags and bbs feed perfectly on other builds. Do I need to short stroke my piston or the other side of my sector gear. It's like my timing is just so far off. Or it's like my nozzle cycles so fast a bb can't be loaded
You dont have to short stroke the piston unless you feel like it. Sector is enough.
While I don't think this is related to your problem I have a video regarding short stroking and tappet/piston timing. But it won't fix a feeding issue.
it doesn't seem like the tappet is dragging. It seems like a timing isssue. Im short stroked 4 teeth on the pick up side , should I take teeth off the release side of the sector?
If so how many?
I’m using the lonex tappet cause my shs and rocket tappets are too thick for the lonex gearbox. The lonex tappet I have is well made and shaped well. It’s strong and doesn’t flex much. When testing the tappet and nozzle in the HopUp with no spring attached, the nozzle clears the HopUp perfectly. The nozzle is pulled back enough to the point where it feed bbs. But it still doesn’t feed them lol. Either way I’m clearly able to feed on active break which proves that my tappet is infact pulling my nozzle back enough. I’m so confused on what to do. I’m 100% positive if I tossed my stock 18:1 gears with the same exact tappet plate + nozzle setup, that it would feed perfectly.
Did your stock 18:1 setup have a delay chip? Maybe compare where the first (pickup) tooth on the stock sector gear is in relation to the tappet stud and what it looks like on the new sector gear. From what you're saying it sounds like an issue with the sector gear/tappet stud not the tappet plate or nozzle.
I've tried 2 different sets of 13:1, both with and without delayer chips. Neither worked, stock 18:1 had delayer chip. Gonna try those gears tonight and see
yeah id check the bucking, I built an ICS m16, and it was having feeding problems, changing nozzle size didn't work. the problem was that the hopup bucking was protruding into the feeding chamber stopping the bbs from loading, all I had to do was trim a couple millimeters off and it fed.
He says he already did, and says that with the stock gears it would feed perfectly. If he's right, then something about the sector gear is tripping up the timing.
I have epm1 and epms. I also have mags with maple airsoft springs which are stupid strong that I've tried. The mags feeds perfectly 40
Rps when active brake is on.
Try removing your mag and firing it upside down by putting BBs in the feed tube by hand. That will eliminate the possibility of an over-tight mag spring, and actually any mag-related problems.
Watch the first 3:40. I think he does not PTS mags...
If you end up watching the whole video, keep in mind his views on the Maxxx HopUp Units have changed for the better. What I mean by this is he realized just how bad they really are.
The max hopup units last I checked had like almost a 8mm clearance in the feed tube and chamber. And they have a offset feed tube due to a off spec issue snagging the bbs as they feed. It's like they didn't double check their design and focused entirely on the modular hop arm design they have.
If they just fixed those two issues then it would be literally the best m4 hop up ever designed. But the shortcomings still stand.
Seems many cnc shops struggle to properly design things these days.
Most "fail" to see the "big" picture. They see just a segment and work around that and not the big picture. Plus, again...lack of standards too.
If they would "measure" a TM...they could make it better. Most likely they took a low cost unit and tried to improve that...or a clone of a clone, Prowin hop-up...
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