Is your motor height correct? Is this an older gate firmware that doesn't like brushless motors?
Have Any Idea About the Motor Literally not spinning?
So this is what I have going on.
I have a Krytac CBR that has a Gate Aster and I was replacing the stock gears with 12:1 gears.
The problem is when I attach the grip to the gearbox shell for a test before i place it back inside my gun, and attempt to fire it, the Aster light turns from green to Red and the gears "try" to spin, and the motor makes one very quiet clicking sound.
I am sure the gears are shimmed perfectly. The only thing I am uncertain of as far as shimming is I had to modify the spur gear bushing hole because the Krytac gearbox has a Dum little protrusion that their stock auto-shim gear sits on. If I didn't sand that down, the spur gear is pinched very hard between the gearbox halves, and doesn't move freely. Also the flat side of the bevel gear has no shims, and is tight, I don't think too tight, to the pinion gear.
Before I added anything but the gears to the gearbox, I spun them with my finger and they spun freely.
I also sanded down the tappet plate so it wasn't pinched between the sector gear and the gearbox.
The motor is a ADV Brushless motor pulling back a M120 Spring w/ 12:1 gears.
I have a Krytac CBR that has a Gate Aster and I was replacing the stock gears with 12:1 gears.
The problem is when I attach the grip to the gearbox shell for a test before i place it back inside my gun, and attempt to fire it, the Aster light turns from green to Red and the gears "try" to spin, and the motor makes one very quiet clicking sound.
I am sure the gears are shimmed perfectly. The only thing I am uncertain of as far as shimming is I had to modify the spur gear bushing hole because the Krytac gearbox has a Dum little protrusion that their stock auto-shim gear sits on. If I didn't sand that down, the spur gear is pinched very hard between the gearbox halves, and doesn't move freely. Also the flat side of the bevel gear has no shims, and is tight, I don't think too tight, to the pinion gear.
Before I added anything but the gears to the gearbox, I spun them with my finger and they spun freely.
I also sanded down the tappet plate so it wasn't pinched between the sector gear and the gearbox.
The motor is a ADV Brushless motor pulling back a M120 Spring w/ 12:1 gears.
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Sounds like overcurrent protection, +1 on checking your motor height. Also, make sure the terminals are good/correct and the battery you're using isn't junk.
Can sanity check your shimming by removing the gearbox, popping the AR latch and holding it back, then using your finger or a small screw driver to spin the bevel gear without opening the shell. Should be able to spin it a bit in either direction before pushing up against the main spring or piston, should spin freely without resistance.
ETUs that detect motors through resistance don't work to well with brushless - I haven't used a GATE in a while but if yours has the option, try disabling motor check.
Can sanity check your shimming by removing the gearbox, popping the AR latch and holding it back, then using your finger or a small screw driver to spin the bevel gear without opening the shell. Should be able to spin it a bit in either direction before pushing up against the main spring or piston, should spin freely without resistance.
ETUs that detect motors through resistance don't work to well with brushless - I haven't used a GATE in a while but if yours has the option, try disabling motor check.
Did you reverse the polarity?
Wrong lead on the wrong connector?
Wrong lead on the wrong connector?
Your spur gear post may be stuck against the ambidextrous selector.
Also, that build will destroy itself. ADV motors are extremely fast.
Sounds like the motor is installed with incorrect polarity. It's also possible that your ARL is installed improperly.
Also, that build will destroy itself. ADV motors are extremely fast.
Sounds like the motor is installed with incorrect polarity. It's also possible that your ARL is installed improperly.
No, because before i took it apart to replace the gears it was working fine with the brushless motor.Is your motor height correct? Is this an older gate firmware that doesn't like brushless motors?
You are right, it is pressing a little against the selector, but will that cause it to not fire? Also what is ARL. Motor polarity is correct.Your spur gear post may be stuck against the ambidextrous selector.
Also, that build will destroy itself. ADV motors are extremely fast.
Sounds like the motor is installed with incorrect polarity. It's also possible that your ARL is installed improperly.
You're right, I shouldn't use brushless for that.
Thanks for the help btw.
Thanks, I'll work on this. I might just end up getting a non-Krytac gearbox.Sounds like overcurrent protection, +1 on checking your motor height. Also, make sure the terminals are good/correct and the battery you're using isn't junk.
Can sanity check your shimming by removing the gearbox, popping the AR latch and holding it back, then using your finger or a small screw driver to spin the bevel gear without opening the shell. Should be able to spin it a bit in either direction before pushing up against the main spring or piston, should spin freely without resistance.
ETUs that detect motors through resistance don't work to well with brushless - I haven't used a GATE in a while but if yours has the option, try disabling motor check.
After maybe 5 more trigger pulls, the gearbox made the well known shrieking of gears slipping. But after further exam, it turns out the motor turned the bevel gear a little, but something was jamming it. The persistent trigger pulls i did made the pinion jump the bevel. That's a hard-core jam. Could this be from the spur gear pressing against the selector gear? I don't know how that could cause such resistance. The gears aren't in too bad condition, even under that stress.
If I have to replace the gearbox, any recommendations for ones that will work well with the Krytac.
The ARL is the anti-reversal latch, which is what prevents the gears from spinning backwards.
OK, wasn't familiar with the abbreviation.The ARL is the anti-reversal latch, which is what prevents the gears from spinning backwards.
Krytac receivers are picky, hopefully someone here will have a known good recommendation if you have to go that route.
Seem to recall Promethious (Laylax) makes a 'wide use' 13:1 gearset which is Krytac compatible, would do a little research in that direction before trying to fit a new shell. They'll be expensive, but less than a shell swap that may or may not work.
Seem to recall Promethious (Laylax) makes a 'wide use' 13:1 gearset which is Krytac compatible, would do a little research in that direction before trying to fit a new shell. They'll be expensive, but less than a shell swap that may or may not work.
I have read and seen numerous reports of the Prommy "wide use" gears grenading themselves on springs stronger than an ~M110 (YMMV). Good concept, but poor execution.
OP, have you tried your OEM Krytac gearset with the brushless motor? How does that setup perform?
OP, have you tried your OEM Krytac gearset with the brushless motor? How does that setup perform?
The ADV motors are all cripplingly fast at 42K, 48K, and 54K on 11.1v.
I suspect all would get PME on 11.1v, and the "speed" motor is on the edge with 7.4v. And that's assuming everything is put together well and a properly light (or lightened stock) piston is used.
I'd honestly suggest running the thing with the stock gears and a 7.4v, as it sounds like your new gears might be the issue. The Krytac gearbox makes the gears sit weirdly, as you probably know, and that means it can be tricky to get everything shimmed and balanced. This is why Krytac squeak is a thing.
I suspect all would get PME on 11.1v, and the "speed" motor is on the edge with 7.4v. And that's assuming everything is put together well and a properly light (or lightened stock) piston is used.
I'd honestly suggest running the thing with the stock gears and a 7.4v, as it sounds like your new gears might be the issue. The Krytac gearbox makes the gears sit weirdly, as you probably know, and that means it can be tricky to get everything shimmed and balanced. This is why Krytac squeak is a thing.
Good gawd 12:1, 42K (Minimum) on M120...PME for sure on a good 3S LIPO....why are you doing this?
Heck, that's PME and-a-half on a bad LiPo.
It was the mercy of the airsoft deities that kept OP from creating a nuclear explosion and ending the world.
Performs Great. Until i took it apart.I have read and seen numerous reports of the Prommy "wide use" gears grenading themselves on springs stronger than an ~M110 (YMMV). Good concept, but poor execution.
OP, have you tried your OEM Krytac gearset with the brushless motor? How does that setup perform?
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