I'm not anymore. Wanted a good trigger response
Have Any Idea About the Motor Literally not spinning?
So this is what I have going on.
I have a Krytac CBR that has a Gate Aster and I was replacing the stock gears with 12:1 gears.
The problem is when I attach the grip to the gearbox shell for a test before i place it back inside my gun, and attempt to fire it, the Aster light turns from green to Red and the gears "try" to spin, and the motor makes one very quiet clicking sound.
I am sure the gears are shimmed perfectly. The only thing I am uncertain of as far as shimming is I had to modify the spur gear bushing hole because the Krytac gearbox has a Dum little protrusion that their stock auto-shim gear sits on. If I didn't sand that down, the spur gear is pinched very hard between the gearbox halves, and doesn't move freely. Also the flat side of the bevel gear has no shims, and is tight, I don't think too tight, to the pinion gear.
Before I added anything but the gears to the gearbox, I spun them with my finger and they spun freely.
I also sanded down the tappet plate so it wasn't pinched between the sector gear and the gearbox.
The motor is a ADV Brushless motor pulling back a M120 Spring w/ 12:1 gears.
I have a Krytac CBR that has a Gate Aster and I was replacing the stock gears with 12:1 gears.
The problem is when I attach the grip to the gearbox shell for a test before i place it back inside my gun, and attempt to fire it, the Aster light turns from green to Red and the gears "try" to spin, and the motor makes one very quiet clicking sound.
I am sure the gears are shimmed perfectly. The only thing I am uncertain of as far as shimming is I had to modify the spur gear bushing hole because the Krytac gearbox has a Dum little protrusion that their stock auto-shim gear sits on. If I didn't sand that down, the spur gear is pinched very hard between the gearbox halves, and doesn't move freely. Also the flat side of the bevel gear has no shims, and is tight, I don't think too tight, to the pinion gear.
Before I added anything but the gears to the gearbox, I spun them with my finger and they spun freely.
I also sanded down the tappet plate so it wasn't pinched between the sector gear and the gearbox.
The motor is a ADV Brushless motor pulling back a M120 Spring w/ 12:1 gears.
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
PME?Heck, that's PME and-a-half on a bad LiPo.
premature engagementPME?
What does Premature Engagement mean?premature engagement
Your sector gear teeth catch your piston teeth before your piston comes fully forward. Basically your piston is shooting forward but being yanked back before it can settle. PME can be as mild as moderate teeth wear and as catastrophic as stripped pistons, broken gears, and blown out bearings.
I see. I think that happened. Now I understand why.Your sector gear teeth catch your piston teeth before your piston comes fully forward. Basically your piston is shooting forward but being yanked back before it can settle. PME can be as mild as moderate teeth wear and as catastrophic as stripped pistons, broken gears, and blown out bearings.
PME can be prevented by:
1. lightening your piston assembly [throw the bearings (use plastic or rubber washers for AOE correction), drill holes in the piston (swiss-cheesing), use a lonex/prometheus pom piston head (very light)]
2. using a stronger spring
3. using a slower motor/gearset
4. using ported cylinders with a short inner barrel and shortstroked teeth to your advantage.
1. lightening your piston assembly [throw the bearings (use plastic or rubber washers for AOE correction), drill holes in the piston (swiss-cheesing), use a lonex/prometheus pom piston head (very light)]
2. using a stronger spring
3. using a slower motor/gearset
4. using ported cylinders with a short inner barrel and shortstroked teeth to your advantage.
Number 4 is not a mitigation method...piston is still travelling the full stroke. And thus PME will still occur...
You would need to short stroke for that to be advantageous.Number 4 is not a mitigation method...piston is still travelling the full stroke. And thus PME will still occur...
Beat me to it lol
Ports in high rps builds allow initial acceleration to occur without building compressive resistance. It's a minor difference, but ime at least you can usually squeeze out a few more rps or gain a little headroom this way
I think I remember coming across that, might've been in one of your old posts.
As you tech more, you'll start to get a feel for what's gonna cause PME and what's not, but in general, on an M120 spring and a 3S LiPo, you start needing to lighten your piston to 20ish grams at 30 RPS depending on setup, and at 35 you need to lighten and short stroke, unless you're using a dang heavy spring. You can lighten or short stroke interchangeably.
For reference, my numbers put your setup at 50 RPS if it were possible to get it running well... which is way too dang fast. At that speed a DSG is way easier and more durable.
For reference, my numbers put your setup at 50 RPS if it were possible to get it running well... which is way too dang fast. At that speed a DSG is way easier and more durable.
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
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