My observations:

Make sure your ARL is properly set. It won't do a lick of good except jam your gears in its current state.
Your piston doesn't seem to be properly aligned with the rack guides on the shell.
Your cylinder head assembly just seems off. Take a look at this and compare to yours.
That electrical tape/heat shrink is insulating the connections. It's not damaged, at least it doesn't appear that way from the blurry photos you have.

 

Wow, infidel that was super human fast... I will do that.

EDIT: Anti-Reverse lever seems to be doing its job.
The electrical tape is covering exposed wires., that's normal?
Cylinder head setup fixed,
and piston is aligned correctly, the bad photos are messing it up sorry.

I will try to put the 2 together again and report back. Your gearbox is a version 2 correct?

 

Wow, infidel that was super human fast... I will do that.

EDIT: Anti-Reverse lever seems to be doing its job.
The electrical tape is covering exposed wires., that's normal?
Cylinder head setup fixed,
and piston is aligned correctly, the bad photos are messing it up sorry.

I will try to put the 2 together again and report back. Your gearbox is a version 2 correct?

Lol.

Ok.
Pictures please. Soldered connections should be covered.
Good.
Ok.

It is, but they're basically the same besides the wiring, setup and placement wise.

 

Lol.

Ok.
Pictures please. Soldered connections should be covered.
Good.
Ok.

It is, but they're basically the same besides the wiring, setup and placement wise.

Ok, still having trouble with putting it together. The back where the spring guide is, is clicking into place but the front is not. The first picture is the exposed wire, the second picture is the wire where the 1st picture wire connected to via electrical tape. Thanks infidel for the help!

 

Ok, still having trouble with putting it together. The back where the spring guide is, is clicking into place but the front is not. The first picture is the exposed wire, the second picture is the wire where the 1st picture wire connected to via electrical tape. Thanks infidel for the help!

Good lord. Yeah. That's a problem. Solder it back and replace that wire, soon.

As for the gearbox, it just takes some patience. Once you get everything lined up, it will close. You'll develop a knack for it.

 

Strange, it fired before I disassembled it and it worked fine! I am glad I discovered the problem fast. I bought it used on the classifieds, I am going to talk with this person.

 

Ok, I have just revisited the For Sale thread and here is what it had to say:

Note: These next two (AUG & UMP) are some lower end AEG's given to me by friends getting out of the hobby. They have just been sitting around as I have no use for them so I would like to try and sell them together at a bargain price just to get them out of the way. I personally do not find them worth my time to open up and inspect internally or try and tune up and bring to a point of higher than stock performance. This means I cannot attest to the internal conditions of these. I have, however, thrown batteries in them and emptied a couple mags in the backyard so I can personally guarantee that they are still shooting well.

So, I am screwed unless I solder it. How long will it last without soldering? Here is a picture of the condition of the wires all along the wires.

 

Ok, I have just revisited the For Sale thread and here is what it had to say:

Note: These next two (AUG & UMP) are some lower end AEG's given to me by friends getting out of the hobby. They have just been sitting around as I have no use for them so I would like to try and sell them together at a bargain price just to get them out of the way. I personally do not find them worth my time to open up and inspect internally or try and tune up and bring to a point of higher than stock performance. This means I cannot attest to the internal conditions of these. I have, however, thrown batteries in them and emptied a couple mags in the backyard so I can personally guarantee that they are still shooting well.

So, I am screwed unless I solder it. How long will it last without soldering? Here is a picture of the condition of the wires all along the wires.

Your connection will be shotty and could be broken simply by twisting or bending the wires. Replace it or at least solder it ASAP.

 

So I won't explode when I use it lol? I am still trying but all this Chinese grease is on me. I am going to take a break. Plus my spring guide just went to China so I need to find that.

 

So I won't explode when I use it lol? I am still trying but all this Chinese grease is on me. I am going to take a break. Plus my spring guide just went to China so I need to find that.

Lol, No. Yeah, try using a screw driver next time. Prevents cross room travel most of the time.

 

Ok, great. I will hold it up with electrical tape then solder it once I get $10. Plus I have Zards Mosfet I have not installed yet so I could solder that to.

 

Lol, No. Yeah, try using a screw driver next time. Prevents cross room travel most of the time.

What do I do?!?!?!?!?! It just took my screwdriver with it o.o
(true story)

 

Ok, great. I will hold it up with electrical tape then solder it once I get $10. Plus I have Zards Mosfet I have not installed yet so I could solder that to.

Good plan.

What do I do?!?!?!?!?! It just took my screwdriver with it o.o
(true story)

whelp. The whole point of the screw driver is to give you something to force the spring guide down, locking it into the shell half. You're doing it wrong if you sent your screwdriver on an adventure as well.

 

Did you just wire in your wires to the positive end of the battery? Negative end of wiring needs love too... If you don't have solder, try getting a small copper connector and pinch the wires together to where they used to connect to if it's to another wire. Then cover your homemade "Bridge" between connections. I used to do that, I even use copper wires to wrap the end of my snipped wires together to keep them in place. Works for drum mags and AEG's, this is not a permanent solution, but beats electrical tape.

Another thing you can do is crimp the wires and put motor connections and motor tabs on them so you can disconnect and reconnect them, but only if you HAVE the tabs.

 

Did you just wire in your wires to the positive end of the battery? Negative end of wiring needs love too... If you don't have solder, try getting a small copper connector and pinch the wires together to where they used to connect to if it's to another wire. Then cover your homemade "Bridge" between connections. I used to do that, I even use copper wires to wrap the end of my snipped wires together to keep them in place. Works for drum mags and AEG's, this is not a permanent solution, but beats electrical tape.

Another thing you can do is crimp the wires and put motor connections and motor tabs on them so you can disconnect and reconnect them, but only if you HAVE the tabs.

I honestly don't know what I did, I bought this second hand and beside plinking this is my first time opening it up or even taking a long glance. I will do what you suggested and see what happens, only problem is what is a "small copper connector" I am having a Blondie moment.

 

I honestly don't know what I did, I bought this second hand and beside plinking this is my first time opening it up or even taking a long glance. I will do what you suggested and see what happens, only problem is what is a "small copper connector" I am having a Blondie moment.

I wouldn't waste the effort on finding one, or using it. Twisting the frayed ends together then taping is far easier 1) to remove later for repair 2) to put together anyway. Basically free as well.

 

Oh! Thanks Infidel, you have helped a ton on my thread.

 

Looking at your pictures, your contacts are not connected. Closing the gearbox is not going to help. You have to reconnect one of the positive wires to the wire harness. Solder is the only way. Watch some videos on how to properly solder. Don't just force it on.

Electrical tape a good idea? Only if the place you are taping is for exposure and not holding it together. The tape is sticky and can put resistance in the area especially if you need to solder that area later.