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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have a dsg build with 10 to 1 gears and it runs at 109 rps unloaded(with out a piston and spring) or that’s what my Titan says and I am wondering what spring I need for it not to hit pme.
 

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Oh shoot, thought you were doing the 100 rps dsg build. nvm lol
 

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Nope, AirsoftRyan is.
 

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You would have to have no resistance for it to still be at 100 RPS with a spring and piston. So with a spring, piston, tappet, etc. I would say you would be some where in the nineties or eighties but can't say for sure as I don't know the TPA of your motor. I would start with a SP170 or SP180 and see what works or doesn't .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies

The 109 rps was with a 7.4 lipo and I am thinking about going to a 11.1 or 14.8 to stay at 100 rps with the spring and piston.

Also my build list:
Modified krytac gearbox (for the Titan to fit)
Gate Titan
Lonex solid steel bushings
Seigetek 10.44 to 1 with nine teeth dsg
Shs pre lightened piston (would I need to Swiss cheese it further?)
Lonex pom ph
Stock ch
Stock cylinder
Stock arl
Stock spring guide
Guarder sp 170

Aoe is corrected and the gearbox is shimmed with the bevel to pinion method

Edit: the motor is a Tienly gt-45000, it’s a 14 tpa motor with the strongest neo magnets you have ever seen, but I am thinking about replacing the armature for a 16 tpa one.
 

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Your not hitting 100RPS with that setup, not even if you had an 8 tooth DSG. Stop with the "unloaded" numbers as they don't mean anything and have no relevance. I could make a stock gun shoot 50RPS "unloaded".
Your going to run into PME with a 9T VERY quickly. With a 10:1 DSG and 14TPA motor I would guess your hitting 70ish RPS(11.1), where a 9T is starting to hit PME around 50RPS.
Depending on the mags and BB weight you run, your going to lose feeding ability around 80RPS. While its possible to build a gun that cycles faster then that, feeding and general usability is nill.
My advice would be this:
SS one tooth off the DSG so its an 8T
Get an M190(or the M210 if they still make it)
Swisschez the crap out of that piston, take the bearings out, and get a spring guide with bearings(if the stock doesn't have already).
Go from there and see if that meets your speed needs.
 

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How not to hit pme at 100 rps?

HPA - sorted, no piston = no pme

Really though....

Ask Riot if he is bored enough to make you a TSG....

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I was wondering about the implications of making and using one of these the other day, what is everyone's opinions on a tri sector gear setup?
 

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I just found out that the piston was probably a fake, I have an other shs piston and the teeth material seems to be much stronger. I will retry the 100 rps with that piston.
TBH I would use a reg SHS epoxy the rack in good & proper
lighten it myself up top, so you got max rails for max stability
can remove the first 15~20 off rails near piston head as it never leaves cylinder
but max rails elsewhere, swiss up top only, maybe remove the final 8 teeth

end up lighter than that piston you used - probably about 12.5 to 13gms...

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consider SS one tooth at least maybe ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I am removing the final 8 teeth right now I do not how to Swiss cheese well so I think I will leave it like it is (it is a pre lightened one)

Making it a 7 teeth dsg could help but won’t the FPS be really low tho?

Also I do not know if it will feed right now but I have a really good mag I will try hopefully it will work.
 

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I am removing the final 8 teeth right now I do not how to Swiss cheese well so I think I will leave it like it is (it is a pre lightened one)

Making it a 7 teeth dsg could help but won't the FPS be really low tho?

Also I do not know if it will feed right now but I have a really good mag I will try hopefully it will work.
Swiss cheesing @Lefse is the expert
(he's still working on attaching the piston head to rack to save as much weight as possible)
easiest way to swiss is dremel out slots say 2x2 slots

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see the rails removed at front where it stays inside piston on a DSG
the main thing is to not go too nutz and remove too much too soon
if drilling big holes it can tear/rip the plastic
or you grind out way too much asap
start off mildly and trim/file more off in stages
leave the bit under the rails near rack - them small holes lose little weight
and if you are inexperienced best build up your confidence & skill perhaps
But a quick cutting of 2 x 2 long slots, supported in center of piston like pic
is perhaps quickest & most effective pattern, with little cleaning of burrs inside

The FPS will be very low if $hit smashes up again ie: zero fps on a f*cked gun

Only one way to find out, SS a tooth doesn't do anything to feed timings
well it does mess tappet timings if you remove from release side of sector too much

remove from PICK UP side - chop off the first tooth that picked up the piston
 

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