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I want to be a good spotter

1326 Views 8 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  xXDIGITALDEATHXx
ok so through my not-so-fast but obsessed airsoft experience i have played all the roles to try it out and ive finally settled on bein a spotter for a sniper
i recently ordered the AGM m16 with a tactedge red dot scope and .23g bbs do you think this is a wise purchase for a spotter. btw im taking suggestions for strategies and loadouts and whatnot
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There is an amazing handbook for military and law enforcement snipers, it is costly at 60 dollars but i found it to be extremely helpful. Its called "The Ultimate Sniper" (Major John Plaster's Ultimate Sniper - i would recamend picking up a copy, as it is a fantastic book for snipers and spotters. The book covers everything from gauging wind speed, range estimation, to special movements, and sniper hides. a must get for sniper teams.


Snipers equiptment:
1. Rifle.
2. Camouflage.
3. food/water
4. Extreme skill.
5. Ability to make judgements on adjusting scope by range/wind.

Spotters equipment:
1. Rifle (AEG)
2. Cheap spotting scope (Target ID).
3. Binoculars (Locating target).
4. Camouflage.
5. Pocket wind reader.
6. Handheld GPS (or map of area)
7. Mil-dot chart/formula, or a laser range finder
8. Food/water.
9. Extreme skill.
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well i am a sniper so im ganna try to help ya out. . . first off that gun was a great purchase good job now your ganna have to be extremally sneaky lol sorry not funny just a lil joke between me and my friends anyway your ganna need some binoculars deffinanlty your not going need like gps or any of that s*** it's a waist just some binoculars will do now try to use some of these tactics stay close to your sniper always be listening and watching your surroundings very carefully !!! this is extremally important it pisses me off so mmuch when my spotter isn't paying attention i gets the sniper killed!!!! keep hidden dont move around a lot or you will be spotted (wich is bad in case you didn't kno . . . jk) well anyway just stick to those giudlines and you will be fine
hope his helped ya out if ya need anything else let me kno and i will try my best c ya

first off that gun was a great purchase good job now your ganna have to be extremally sneaky lol sorry not funny just a lil joke between me and my friends
lol i hope you were serious cuz i just ordered it and i hope i didnt just blow off 200 bucks lol
and i consider myself a survivalist because whenever we play im always the last one left on my team and im pretty stealthy i guess. so thanks for the advice. my sniper just ordered a ghillie. should i save for one?
definately save for a ghillie, better yet making a ghillie is the best if you have time. For big ops a gps/map is good cause you can see all the major pathways, very very good idea my dear friend, it really can help you pick out a good sniper hide. It also allows you and your spotter to make a escape route and alt escape rout.

wind meter can tell you if its to windy to take a shot, laser range finder can tell you if your to far out, that way you wont take a shot that can't reach the target, thus making you not get spotted so easy, food/water, on 3 day op's a couple of granola bars and a hydration pack is not a bad idea aswell. Binoculars are good for finding a group of targets, but the spotting scope, because of its high magnification it is a great tool for identifieng commanders, team leaders and finding other snipes.

ok now that i have some time to help discuss tactics. (fragment from sparky) This is the kind of spotter you need to be, down dirty and completely invisible with your sniper
hard core, down and dirty, one shot one kill, never two shots from the same location kind of snipers. These are the guys who spend 90% of the game on their bellies laying in or crawling through brush, streams, mud, bushes, ant hills, nettles, briars, blackberry bushes, leaves, rocks, and every other natural phenomenon that most everyone else avoids just to get intel on the enemy troop movements and strengths or to set up for that one perfect shot to take out a key player at a key moment in the game to turn the advantage to his team. Your job is the spotter, being a spotter for an elite sniper is just as hard, when your sniper gets under fire at range, most likely they do not have a visual confirmation of you two, so dont fire shots till they KNOW where you are or you will blow your ability to escape.

This is a video for real steal snipers, but a lot can apply to airsoft. It goes with the book i recommended.

(sniper/spotter movement)
the sniper walk
The most field expedient method of movement is the sniper walk. This method is typically used in order to cover the optimum amount of ground in the shortest span of time. While the sniper walk is the fastest means of movement, it is by no means fast. Keeping in mind the calculated and deliberate nature of every movement that should be made in the field, this movement technique is usually reserved for use in moderately high and dense vegetation and brush and some of that rough or uneven terrain. If you were to have to cross an open field, this would be the last movement technique to use as the sniper walk is the highest profile method of movement. When you have determined the sniper walk can be used, you should be on your feet standing with a moderate hunch in the back and slight bend at the waist. you should keep your weapon close to the body and carried with the muzzle pointed towards the ground. Each step is taken one at a time. Each step should be taken with the toes touching ground first and pushing any loose dedris like twigs ans leaves out of the way then rolling the foot back to the heel until the entire foot is on the ground, distributing body weight slowly and steadily throughout each lowering of the foot. There is no set pace or speed for the sniper walk. Let the environment be your guide - What kind of concealment is around you? How far do you need to go and how fast do you need to get there? Can the walk be used to get you closer to your target/objective at no sacrifice you your concealment? If the sniper walk isn't prudent at a given time but you must cover as much ground as you can in a short amount of time, then the hand-knee crawl might be a better option for you.

The hand-knee
The hand-knee crawl is the second highest profile and second fastest means of movement available. It is used best when there is cover or concealment that is waist height or higher available such as large rocks, fallen trees or natural concealers such as shallow depressions. During the hand-knee crawl, there are three points of contact on the ground. the rifle is carried in the strong/firing arm while the weak/non-firing arm and both knees are used for mobility.

the high crawl.
The next movement technique is called the high crawl. Typically the profile of an individual performing the high crawl is roughly twelve to fourteen inches from the ground. Keep this in consideration when making the decision to move in this manner. This technique is significantly slower than the hand-knee crawl and is typically used for shorter distances, usually no more than 100 meters. Weapons are slung across the bends of the elbows on top of the forearms and movement is made with the pads of both elbows and the entire legs. Both feet are kept as flat on the ground as possible with the toes pointed outward. As one leg is pulled up until the knee is about at about waist level, the opposing elbow is brought forward. This movement is less fluid than the hand-knee crawl and the sniper walk and affords the user more frequent opportunities to stop, look and listen. It also leaves the you half way home to being in the prone firing position, more so than any other movement technique. The high crawl also affords you the ability to look in the direction they are traveling. If the high crawl provides too high of a profile and time is not of the essence, the low crawl may be suitable for use.

The low crawl
The low crawl is significantly slower than the first three techniques I mentioned, but provides the lowest available profile during movement. The differences between the low crawl and high crawl is that the head is completely on the ground turned to one side and the weapon is carried by the forearm end of the sling with the weapon rested over the top of the weak arm running along the forearm. All limbs remain flat on the ground. Movement is conducted in the same fashion as the high crawl. This technique is best in an environment with little cover or concealment for a calculated distance - the shorter, the better as the low crawl is not a technique you want to be using for an extended period of time. The low crawl does not afford you to monitor your direction of travel so a route should be determined before movement is conducted. If faced with the unavoidable prospect of moving through an exposed area, the four techniques I have already mentioned will not be suitable - there is one technique left that can be used.

The sniper low crawl
The sniper low crawl is the slowest available method of movement. This movement is predominantly used in open, exposed vegetated areas. Traveling a significant distance using this technique can take hours. It is also the most physically strenuous and high-risk movement technique available. Any time you use the sniper low crawl, you should be wearing a ghillie suit of some kind. Like the low crawl, all body parts maintain the lowest possible profile to the ground. The head can either be turned to one side or face down toward the ground (which can wear on the neck muscles leaving you stiff or sore). The rifle is held by the forearm end of the sling in the non-firing hand. Both arms are outstretched over the head "in front" of you with palms facing down and both legs are kept straight with feet flat on the ground with toes pointed outward. Fingertips and toes are used for forward motion so as not to make any major movements. The knees can bend slightly while moving, but it is highly discouraged. Like the low crawl, distance and destination should be predetermined before utilizing this technique. It is also important that prior to the use of the sniper low crawl that vegetation from the area you are operating in be used to enhance the ghillie suit's camouflaging capabilities and reduce the risk of being detected. If the ghillie suit is properly camouflaged and the sniper low crawl is performed correctly, the risk of detection is minimal even in a wide open area such as a clearing or a field. Naturally, using this technique during night time decreases the risk of being detected exponentially. As with the high and low crawl, it is the most difficult to conceal any signature of movement due to the amount of contact with the ground and the dragging motion which makes this technique particularly effective in areas with nothing more than grass long enough to fall over.

These are the five primary stalking and movement techniques available in a tactical environment. People in this kind of environment will certainly not be confined to these five techniques for movement. There will likely be plenty of times where you will be humping through the woods like a nature hiker because the situation gives license to do so. By all means, take that liberty where it presents itself. Discernment is the key to knowing which technique to use to get from one point to the next at any given time.The best way to learn each of these movement techniques is obviously to practice them.

thats about all i can think about for now
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yes save for one and yes i am serious about everything i said 200bucks is like a top of the line deal bro thats probally got a metal gearbox and can be upgraded extremally well any way im glad that it helped ya out
and do listen to snip3r he has some really good ideas im actually makeing my ghillie suit it works better and its cheapr if ya wanna kno how try this link
well any way i gatta go so if ya need anything just pm me or make another post and i will do my best c ya
wow did you describe all that yourself or copy and paste from website?
wrote parts out and quoted some of sparkyD and r1p_c0rd
ohh well any way great advice !
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