Is Lipo Ready, really Lipo Ready??

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by kingtana1, Dec 26, 2012.

  1. kingtana1

    kingtana1 New Member

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    I have an ECHO 1 MRF-C and is Lipo Ready. I would like to know if I can just drop a Lipo Battery without putting a MOSFET first? Or should I put a MOSFET just to be safe. I'm looking at the ECHO 1 11.1v 1100 MAH 15c stick battery, since I have the battery on the stock.
     
  2. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    First of all "li-po ready" is a ridiculous marketing slogan IMO. Lets say you have a gun that's not "li-po ready", is it then okay to run it with a 12v 5000mAh ni-mh battery, but not a 7,4v li-po, just because it's not li-po ready? And a gun that's "li-po ready", is it okay to run it with a 36v 60C 5000mAh li-po? It's a li-po battery, and the gun is supposed to be "li-po ready" right?

    I've said it many many many times before, most stock guns will not hold up well to high voltage batteries, regardless of battery type. The internals might handle it, but if it doesn't have a mosfet unit, you risk frying the trigger contacts.
     

  3. theonlyBuster

    theonlyBuster Active Member Lifetime Supporter

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    As stated, "Lipo-Ready" are a marketing term made up to get the newer guns to sell and hinder second-hand sells. It's just like saying your car is 93 Octane ready. Well yeah, 93 Octane is simple Premium gasoline.
    In short, totally, completely, and utterly ignore the phrase in all it's worth.

    A better question is "Can [Insert gun here] handle a [insert battery]?'
    In short, A "normal" 7.4v Lipo, I say go at it. It's essentially a 9.6v NniMh with a few perks.
    Once you get to the 11.1v Lipos with anything above a 15c output, that's when you need to be a bit careful. With gears spinning rapidly and BBs flying, you need to ensure your gearbox is tuned. This is with ANY gun you plan on tossing in a beefed up battery, Lipo-ready or not.
    Ensure your gearbox is correctly shimmed and lubed, ensure your Angle of engagement (AoE) is correct, and make sure your motor's height has been correctly aligned.

    Mosfets and deans are nice, but personally I don't go out my way to use them. $10 to replace trigger contacts that carbonize once a year to year-and-a-half or $40 for a mosfet that can short out. Sorry NorTech, nothing personal, just personal preference. :-/


    By the way a 5,000 mAh 11.1v Lipo is a bit extreme. Sounds awesome, but scary at the same time.
     
  4. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Well, if you had literally melted a trigger switch assembly, I'm sure you would install mosfet units in all your AEG's too. A mosfet switch actually won't cost more than one or two spare trigger switches, and with the mosfet you can run tons of current through your wiring without worying about stuff melting. The battery that melted my trigger switch was a measly little Firefox 11,1v 20C 1200mAh li-po, in other words, nothing extreme. I would use an 11,1v >20C 5000mAh li-po if I were doing a support weapon build.

    If you have high quality trigger contacts and your motor draw little current, then you can use an 11,1v li-po without frying the trigger switch. I don't really see the point of not running a mosfet unit, they are cheap and easy to make and will be a massive upgrade for your wiring. Using Deans or XT60 contacts over Tamiya is just rational thinking. Tamiya contacts are worse in every way and aren't even cheaper.

    "In short, A "normal" 7.4v Lipo, I say go at it. It's essentially a 9.6v NniMh with a few perks." I just shake my head when people compare 7,4v li-po's and 9,6v ni-mh's like this. A 9,6v 3000+mAh ni-mh battery will give a significantly higher ROF and better trigger response than a 7,4v 15C 1000mAh li-po. "Once you get to the 11.1v Lipos with anything above a 15c output, that's when you need to be a bit careful." This statement doesn't even make sense. A 30C 500mAh li-po will barely turn over your motor, a 10C 5000mAH li-po can melt your trigger contacts.