King arms gear box or g&g

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by Mike223, Nov 29, 2021.

  1. Mike223

    Mike223 Member

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    I could have tried to fit in the ka gb but I kinda already filed a claim, plus id have to find the selector switch and screws and whatever else I would need (but I think most of that would be cheap, or I could've worked it out if he was willing to pay for the parts). As well as transferring the gate titan (Idk if its even in the g&g gearbox or if it works) into the ka gb. Unless I cancel the claim if that is possible, but I already went through with it and there are still unknowns with the gun. And as guges said I probably paid too much for it so ill take his word for it lol.
     
  2. Mike223

    Mike223 Member

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    I just tried putting the ka gb in the body, but I couldn’t put the body pin through the gearbox, it looks like it is very close or I’m doing something wrong so maybe it would require taking off a tad of material on the body for the pin to be able to go through.

    Also, I said I wasn’t going to but I’m a curious fellow and had to know so I tinkered with it lol. Anyone know if it’s bad when i plug in the motor connectors and hook the gb up to a battery the motor whirs but the gb parts don’t move? Did I hook it up wrong or am I missing something or is it dysfunctional?

    https://imgur.com/a/Fqh9AC1

    also the gate titan lights up but I have nothing to plug it into and tinker with it so idk if it works, but the light is probably a good sign.
     

  3. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Umm...you have to have the motor attached to the mechbox. And with Airsoft AR's you need to have that grip attached to the mechbox, so the motor couples correctly with the mechbox.

    Like this, at a minimum:
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Mike223

    Mike223 Member

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    Ahhhh ok, unfortunately the little hole for the top of the motor is just a tad too small and I’d have to take off some material, so I will just leave it alone lol.

    edit: Also the barrel looks a little long, unless the stock flash hider is supposed to be like 4 inches long lol. As well as there is writing on one of the mags that says doesn’t fire every bb. Again more things I didn’t know about the gun.

    https://imgur.com/a/iNtzgsX
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2021
  5. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    You may be able to cant the motor in.

    And the way the previous owner messed with things. That barrel is aftermarket...
     
  6. wetpee

    wetpee Active Member

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    KAgb.jpeg
    This is the King Arms gearbox shell out of one of their cheaper models:
    https://www.evike.com/products/89987/
    Note the trigger is identical that of the KA 9mm PDW. The spring guide is probably fine, it will stabilize when you fasten the screw from the buttstock, buffer tube, etc. during assembly, but check it anyway to be sure. Looks like a Lancer Tactical spring guide. Quick side note, be sure to have something stabilizing a quick-detach spring guide if you intend to test-fire a gearbox outside of a replica. The black cylinder I'm not familiar with. The one King Arms RIF I've examined ( https://www.evike.com/products/85081/ ) had an uncoated brass cylinder. Whatever motor and gear ratio combo it had made for pretty quick and smooth cycling. I wish I checked the shimming on it because it sounded very nice. Since this is gearbox is from a cheaper model, that coated aluminum cylinder and motor are probably going to be pretty lackluster. Gears will likely to be 18:1 ratio. Saying "A stock motor is a stock motor" is not a very helpful or accurate statement. There are plenty of stock motors that are quite solid. All depends on the model. I'm going to guess this KA gearbox is unmodified judging by the condition of the wires that appear to be standard and that it didn't fit correctly in the G&G.
    Whatever is in that G&G gearbox.. good luck man. Hopefully, nice, unmolested parts with an undamaged Titan. You can test it by plugging in a battery and seeing if a red light comes on inside the gearbox. Definitely inspect wires for damage. You can test further by plugging in a motor and pulling the trigger and see if the motor spins when Semi or Auto is selected. Just make sure to grip that motor real tight when you do this cuz it will flail like a fish. Also, the Titan's optical sensors for trigger and selector position might not like the excess ambient light coming in due to the missing parts, and the selector and trigger settings may not be calibrated as well, so if this motor test fails it may not be indicative of damage.
    At this point there's no trusting what's gone on inside that gearbox though so you need to start learning tech stuff and have a go at it when you feel ready, or sell it to someone who knows what they are doing. I would make the assumption now that you will need files, a Dremel or rotary tool of some sort to make modifications and corrections to that gearbox to fit the titan, and a soldering iron. In a few pictures you posted, I definitely see the Titan wires pinched in a few spots. If they weren't damaged in shipping, whoever attempted this install was totally inexperienced and had no clue what they were doing. As a guy who does tech work as a side business, I would not take this job on unless you were a good friend of mine because there's no telling what's going on inside. Paying someone to fix it up for you may end up being more costly than it's truly worth. I do frequently repair Titan wires, though. Gotten pretty damn good at resoldering brand new wires on em. I'm about to change one to a front wire configuration in just a moment. Partially replacing a wire is not ideal, but it works. Titans use 16AWG Alpha Wire EcoWire, which is a nice, stiff wire that's still relatively easy to manipulate, holds it shape, and the insulation is both thin and durable so you can maximize conductor gauge without taking up too much extra space. Stock wiring in most RIFs (including that KA) these days is 18AWG. Smaller gauge = larger conductor diameter.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2021
  7. rue_exe

    rue_exe Member

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    Apparently I should’ve sent my titan to you to fix... oh well.
    I owned the gb and ka pdw. The titan fits just fine in the gbs. As its a quick change it does wobble without being screwed in. The motor is a ferrite motor. Its pretty bad. Works fine for wire testing tho. The gears other than the sector gear are decent. The piston is plastic with 2 metal teeth. The piston head is plastic with an oring but has amazing compression when paired with a g&g cylinder. Nozzle is plastic. Trigger is nice ig. I mean, its just a trigger. I dont know if i missing anything.
     
  8. wetpee

    wetpee Active Member

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    Also, against Guges' recommendation of assembling the motor into the gearbox for testing, I'm gonna say don't do that. There's a reason this thing is in pieces and you got it for the price you did. Trying to cycle the machine could end up causing more damage. If you are to continue with these parts, it is highly advisable to take it all apart and inspect everything piece by piece when you are ready. Otherwise, look into returning it or pass it on to someone else.
     
  9. Mike223

    Mike223 Member

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    Yeah I figure im not gonna touch it anymore until I hear back from paypal. They are currently waiting for his response. He messaged me outside of paypal saying he has a couple of kids and its rent time and asked if I wanted to do a deal outside of paypal.

    I probably shouldn't since, hes probably pissed I'm asking for a refund so he might try to screw me over by getting me to cancel the claim. Or by making me post it up for sale and him buying it back and trying to return it making a similar claim I made, thus screwing me over Or Some other way, unless he has good intentions I have no idea. But once I take the claim back I have nothing to save me if he does try anything.
     
  10. Mike223

    Mike223 Member

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    Yeah I kind of figured, since the stock one wouldn't be sticking out like that lol
     
  11. wetpee

    wetpee Active Member

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    I personally wouldn't give in to that. He's a grown man he should know better than to be buying expensive airsoft stuff just to mess it all up and then dishonestly shove it off onto someone else. If the items were misrepresented in any way, it is your right to file a claim and he should have to deal with that.
     
  12. Mike223

    Mike223 Member

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    Yeah, I suppose that is true. I’ll just let PayPal decide what the outcome is.

    I also received a ics m4 that the safety doesn’t fully work. If you press lightly it will work but any harder and it will fire like it’s in semi auto. Also it looks like there might be a screw missing on the bottom of the pistol grip. I just don’t wanna make a fuss over it with the seller since they’re probably both cheap and easy to fix. Also something Minor but doesn’t effect function is wobbly ris and front sight. However those are a couple things I didn’t know about buying it and that is extra time/ effort/ money I didn’t know I had to put in after purchasing it.

    https://imgur.com/a/Abkxlr2

    I also tried firing it a couple times, one of the times the mosfet would have a green light and was blinking at one point and not letting me fire. Then I tried it again and it worked fine so idk what that was or if it will be an issue.
     
  13. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Honestly, I think you need to stop buy Airsoft without having a SME look it over for you...

    Fixing a Safe mode is neither easy nor cheap to fix. By cheap I mean to get the part it may cost you 25.00 to get the part and have it sent to your door.

    Versus 9.00 to your door.
     
  14. Mike223

    Mike223 Member

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    I agree and I am definitely done for now. All of these buys were probably impulse decisions because I thought they were a good deal.

    Also, I just looked and I found one a tappet plate on eBay for $9 and free shipping. If that is the issue anyways.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/ICS-Airsof...or-M4-M16-MP5-AEGs-Free-Shipping/264269661957
     
  15. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    If it fires in Safe.

    It's 100% not a tappet plate issue.

    upload_2021-12-4_8-33-33.png

    On a 90% hunch it's not a "selector" plate issue. Which is where I think you were trying to mention.

    upload_2021-12-4_8-34-24.png

    It is a 90% possibility is a safety lever issue. The block comes up and prevents you from pulling the trigger. The block may be worn or damaged. This requires near complete mechbox disassembly to replace/repair.

    upload_2021-12-4_8-35-21.png
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2021
  16. Mike223

    Mike223 Member

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    Oh ok my bad, yes I believe the selector plate is what I meant.

    I need to learn how to disassemble my guns anyways. Plus the part is still cheap as I assume it doesn’t have to be an ics brand one unless for some reason it’s proprietary.

    It was only $100 anyways and it shoots I guess so that’s good and might have a functional mosfet. Also, it could be a good first project if I’m gonna replace the orings and stuff like that since it’s a little old.
     
  17. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    There is nothing you need to replace in that ICS if it's not worn or damaged.

    90% of the parts sold in the market is just "stock" parts in a separate little bag and marked up 1000%