BB Maker?
King Arms Thompson 1928 has feeding issues w/heavier pellets
OK, so for a couple of months now, I've owned a King Arms Thompson Model 1928 (the one with the charging handle on top, not the M1-style charging handle that most 1928 airsoft replicas have), and barring an instance where it had to be sent back for repairs after running away on me during a game, it's been treating me well. However, today, I used .28 gram pellets with it instead of the .25 gram pellets that I usually use in my AEGs because I felt that since it was already doing an average of 330-335 FPS with the .25s, then going up a little in weight wouldn't hurt. However, because of that, it's been having feeding issues. Before anyone asks: 1. I have been winding the drum mag all the way, and 2. I haven't tried the three hi-cap stick mags today that I bought as backups.
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Valken. To be more precise, I'm using the bio pellets.BB Maker?
That could be 1/3 of your problem there...
Got any "normal" .28 to test out?
Got any "normal" .28 to test out?
No, and I'm rather hesitant to buy a huge package of such just for testing purposes. I mean, I've used bio .25 gram pellets in all of my guns without feeding issues, so I may go back to those.That could be 1/3 of your problem there...
Got any "normal" .28 to test out?
Valken products are minimally mediocre at best. Get a bad batch and the issues you are describing is what happens with "lumpy" bbs.
Those bbs are too soft. That's likely your problem. Typically high cap mags are more forgiving of soft bio ammo but those are one of the softest bbs I've ever tried.
I don't know if this applies, but I know some people have had problems with bios getting "flat" or deformed after sitting for a while.
Don't judge me too harsh for saying this, but if you can crush a bio bb in your teeth at all, don't run it through your guns. It will leave residue down the top of the entire bore, it will leave residue tracks in your midcaps and leave a mess in high caps over time if you forget to empty them. Midcaps require perfect bbs to feed, if the ammo is just crushing it will not go from double to single stack smoothly, nor will it slide smooth in the mags.
Not all bios are made from the same material. Guges can probably explain on that further than I can.
Valken infinity bios are what I believe your referring to. They look grayish right? Like dirty white.
Not all bios are made from the same material. Guges can probably explain on that further than I can.
Valken infinity bios are what I believe your referring to. They look grayish right? Like dirty white.
Oh I know BIO bbs....
You should have seen the ones that had to be stored in an Air tight bag for it absorbed mosture and swelled. FL players with 7.4mm bbs...fun!
Or the early heavy bio bb with powdered lead...yeah...what...lead is BIO...its a natural material...
You should have seen the ones that had to be stored in an Air tight bag for it absorbed mosture and swelled. FL players with 7.4mm bbs...fun!
Or the early heavy bio bb with powdered lead...yeah...what...lead is BIO...its a natural material...
Don't judge me too harsh for saying this, but if you can crush a bio bb in your teeth at all, don't run it through your guns.
I believe I may have made a poor life choice... oops.Or the early heavy bio bb with powdered lead...yeah...what...lead is BIO...its a natural material...
OK, so which brand of bio pellets would you recommend, if I may ask?Valken products are minimally mediocre at best. Get a bad batch and the issues you are describing is what happens with "lumpy" bbs.
I've never had that problem, or at least not that I could discern.I don't know if this applies, but I know some people have had problems with bios getting "flat" or deformed after sitting for a while.
I'm not judging at all. I'm just trying to figure out what's up with my gun because I want it to last me a while and perform acceptably enough.Don't judge me too harsh for saying this, but if you can crush a bio bb in your teeth at all, don't run it through your guns. It will leave residue down the top of the entire bore, it will leave residue tracks in your midcaps and leave a mess in high caps over time if you forget to empty them. Midcaps require perfect bbs to feed, if the ammo is just crushing it will not go from double to single stack smoothly, nor will it slide smooth in the mags.
Not all bios are made from the same material. Guges can probably explain on that further than I can.
Valken infinity bios are what I believe your referring to. They look grayish right? Like dirty white.
And yes, I believe they are the Infinity ones.
Well...we need more details. Does you BIO requirement have to be EPA certified BIO or just made from "Bio" plastics versus dead dino plastics?
To be honest, I'm not 100% sure on that. All I know is that the field I play at requires that bio pellets are to be used, but they say nothing about EPA certification.Well...we need more details. Does you BIO requirement have to be EPA certified BIO or just made from "Bio" plastics versus dead dino plastics?
Then just get PLA BBs, BBs made of corn plastic.
Never heard of that brand, but I'm willing to give them a shot (no pun intended). Besides, the staff at the field has said they'll probably run games up until Thanksgiving - weather permitting - so I'll likely have at least one opportunity to try these.Then just get PLA BBs, BBs made of corn plastic.
PLA refers to polylactide, the type of plastic. BLS bio is good enough for me, if you're in the USA you can get them at Infantryshop USA
Among other brands (made by BLS)...and others.
Yes, I found that out for myself. Hopefully, BLS is in stock, because I tried buying Madbull PLA pellets and those were out of stock everywhere I went.PLA refers to polylactide, the type of plastic. BLS bio is good enough for me, if you're in the USA you can get them at Infantryshop USA
UPDATE: Just bought two bags of BLS pellets. Now, I gotta figure out what to do with my unused stock of Valken pellets (which I just realized now are the Accelerate pellets rather than the Infinity pellets! D'OH!)
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