Maxx product

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by Scoper05, Oct 19, 2021.

  1. Scoper05

    Scoper05 New Member

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    Spring Hill
    Hello, I have recently bought a Maxx piston head, cylinder head and nozzle. When I went to install all of them I noticed they are very snug. The Piston head is very snug in the cylinder and the nozzle fit very snug on the cylinder head. I always thought that these things should slide relatively freely. This is going into a krytac trident.
    Does this all seem normal or is it supposed to slide freely.
     
  2. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Sadly...nothing is made to an standard what so ever.

    Most parts are "not" upgrades. They are laterals at best and downgrades in most cases, like your MAXX parts in a Krytac.

    It should not bind...and thus you shouldn't use them and to be honest...those parts wouldn't have made any difference in your AEG.
     

  3. Ben3721

    Ben3721 Well-Known Member

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    I mean you could try it... but drag might cause an issue.

    You'll know pretty quick.

    Also a lot of manufacturers struggle to understand that piston heads are one way valves, the front holes serve two purposes, during the backstroke it should slide the o ring forward and let air in, then during the forward stroke the o ring slides back and those holes help expand the o ring and seal.

    Most manufacturers have the or ring tightly fitted into the piston head (can't slide back and forth) causing it to suck most or all air through the nozzle. In higher rps setups it puts more stress on the motor since it's fighting to get air in.

    The Maxx cylinder heads apparently rest on the shell pins causing them to break in some shells.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2021
  4. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Drag + HV + HS Motor = PME
     
  5. Ben3721

    Ben3721 Well-Known Member

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    The back drag won't cause pme but if it's too tight to move and the fps is low then it may be dragging going forward. The secondary thin o ring on the piston head is unnecessary, if you take that off and take one of two of the o rings in the nozzle it would probably move more freely. Might have to swap the main o ring in the piston head with a standard one too if it still drags bad.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2021
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  6. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Back stroke is not the issue, rather it's the forward motion of the piston and it's slowed by too much resistance on the cylinder...it will PME.
     
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  7. Scoper05

    Scoper05 New Member

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    Spring Hill
    I thought I had heard that about the O-rings before but I wasn't sure. I'm going to try that. Seems like good advice. LOL
     
  8. Scoper05

    Scoper05 New Member

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    1
    Spring Hill
    I'm a little bit new at this. What is pme?
     
  9. aotsukisho

    aotsukisho Well-Known Member

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    Premature engagement, when the piston doesn't return completely before the sector gear attempts to pull it back again. The sector gear and piston rack teeth usually crash into each other destructively
     
  10. Scoper05

    Scoper05 New Member

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    Spring Hill
    How would you tell that it was doing that?
     
  11. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    When it makes a stuttering noise as the sector teeth gnashes across the piston and followed by whirling noise and the AEG is not firing any more.

    There are of course varying levels of PME...from a hiccup to a flown blown self destruct.

    Quite, honestly...if this is your "only" AEG.
    Mod nothing...
     
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  12. Scoper05

    Scoper05 New Member

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    Spring Hill
    Wow that would suck.lol
     
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  13. Ben3721

    Ben3721 Well-Known Member

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    It would also show low fps in semi if the piston was draging while moving forward, and if it's enough for pme it would have to be considerable.

    I find it odd that Maxx parts fit too snug, I wonder what lube they would recommend... you could email them a settle it all.
     
  14. DumbleMiner

    DumbleMiner New Member

    3
    0
    Georgia
    To be honest, all the Maxx cylinder products are designed to work together. So if you bought a Maxx cylinder, it would probably solve your problem. Plus, you would probably have fantastic air compression since all your compression parts are of the same manufacture. Just make sure you get the correct cylinder port length for your barrel volume.

    I have a few acquaintances and friends who have had a phenomenal experience with Maxx compression parts. They greatly increased the efficiency and reliability of their rifles.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2021
  15. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Which reinforces the notion that you can't mix and match any more and you have to use items in sets.
     
  16. OPairoft

    OPairoft Active Member

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    Bend
    The cylinder head regardless of cylinder will destroy cylinder head alignment posts. There’s a reason why RA did a post on their website.

    They don’t increase the reliability anymore over a stock part that has been fitted well with other corresponding stock parts.

    It’s classic +10% speed if you have racing stripes on your car syndrome.
     
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  17. OutlawAirsoft

    OutlawAirsoft Active Member

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    Hamilton
    I actually had a maxx piston head in one of my builds and it ended up causing major FPS problems. One shot would be 230, the next 410, etc. I honestly wouldn't bother with maxx products too much except maybe their line of hopup units.
     
  18. DumbleMiner

    DumbleMiner New Member

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    Georgia
    T
    True enough… I forgot about the alignment posts. However, that problem could be fixed by expanding the post holes backwards with a file or dremel. After all, the alignment posts are only for rotational alignment.

    In terms of the racing stripes idea, would not the increased air seal at least give greater consistency to the amount of air behind the bb? The more consistent anything is in the gun, the greater your accuracy. This is keying off the concept of gluing the tappet plate to the nozzle so the bbs are loaded in exactly the same position every time. The nozzle doesn’t have to be perfectly straight, it just has to be consistent. Thus, your bbs tend to fly in closer groupings.
     
  19. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    And most of the bbs sold in the US market is not even a "good grade" in terms of consistency. That fine tuning won't even help with some of the makers...
     
  20. Ben3721

    Ben3721 Well-Known Member

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    The majority of accuracy is the actual hop up application.

    The issue with a poor aligning nozzle is the chambering the bb off center into the barrel hop window where the contact point of hop from the packing is applied.
    A standard hop up mound protrudes mostly in the middle of the barrel window, allowing more chance for the bb to seat slightly off to the sides, which applies hop away from the 12 o clock position causing curving. A flat hop will always apply hop at 12 o clock position even if the bb is off center a hair, which means it's more forgiving. A r hop hugs the bb to the center more than all of those, and it prevents air leaking around the window/bb. Both r hops and flat hops in theory help prevent the bb from skipping down the bore as much as a traditional hop which has a higher shorter pressure point. A guy on a old forum used to cut barrels lengthwise to study the bb residue patterns to confirm this skipping and to confirm a bb rides the top of the barrel.

    This kind of stuff is extremely OCD, the actual measurement of the bb being centered is likely not visible to our eyes, but when the bb is fired over 50 yards those slight tolerance issues will result in some inaccuracies. It's also important to remember feeding isn't perfect, and the nozzle will be violently moved around no matter how hard you tune it.

    Then there is the problem most aegs have loose tolerances that allow you to basically rattle the barrel and hop up unit around while in the gun. Shimming out the wings of the hop up unit, aligning the outer barrel to 12 o clock and wrapping the barrel to fit tight in the outer barrel helps more than anything. Then picking a decent bb that isn't filled with air pockets will help you to actually benefit from those slight improvements.

    The gearbox fps consistency is important though for sure.
     
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