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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As Guges would say, no standards to this industry…..

I finally got a chance to start my new HPA build. I picked up a VFC 416a5 from Redwolf, and am planning to convert it to an untethered HPA gun with a P* UGS and F2 engine. The UGS comes in a TM style and a RS style buffer tube setup. The 416a5 has a threaded buffer tube, but it is not to the mil spec real steel threads. No standards. So I’m on a holding pattern as I figure out how to move forward. I am thinking of getting another castle nut that fits the regulator, sand/grind the threads out of the receiver, then pinch it in place with the castle nuts on either side of the mounting point. Similar to how it would be attached if it was a TM style receiver. But I’m going to think on that for a bit….maybe reach out to P* and see what they think I should do. I will keep you posted…..
 

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EZ joke about HPA guys having no standards... :D

A second castle nut would probably work if it'll fit and stay tight, better option might be a helical coil or similar insert to mesh the buffer tube threads with the reciever? Or a flanged insert of some kind maybe
 

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Yep, I've used 1.5" helicoils before. Not sure about TPI, would need to make sure the OD isn't to big etc etc

Is there enough 'meat' to just rethread the reciever with a buffer tube tap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’m not sure. I was just looking at taps. The thread pitch seems to be the problems, but I didn’t measure. So I’m concerned that there won’t be enough material to just cut the threads. I don’t think I need the strongest threads, as I still intend to put a nut on the inside for added support. If there’s not enough material, I wonder if I could use an aluminum can to make shims to get it in there…

P* says the regulator is 1 3/16 TPI 16. But I can’t find what VFC says the threads are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UPDATE

So I took the reciever and regulator to my shop and had the head mechanic take a look at it. He’s also a fabricator/machinist. There’s enough material to run a 1 3/16” tap through it, and Bushnell happens to sell 1 3/16” 16TPI taps….hmmmm. And my guy also has the correct drill bit too! So we are going to make this reciever Mil Spec. So I guess I’ll start on the gearbox.
 

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Dude, that is awesome! So glad you could make it work. 416, no matter AEG or HPA, is still freaking cool. I think thats something both parties (AEG vs HPA) can agree on;):D.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Air gun Wood Trigger Gun barrel Gun accessory


Update! I picked the tap up back in June. Got COVID, then 5 days later my wife was positive, another 5 days, my son got it. First week of Summer brake…Then family Summer Vacation time, etc, etc. long story short(too late) I made it to the shop today, and we drilled and tapped the reciever. Success! Now I need to get into that gearbox.



the sacrilege continues!:devilish:;):alien:(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Air gun Trigger Wood Gun barrel Gun accessory


Done! Had some tuning issues do to over/under volume and not having any documents on how to program the EFCU. I was having problems getting the gun to feed BBs. Sometimes it would fire a couple, then jam up. Went back to P*s site to see if I could figure out what was going on, but their Help center can be difficult to navigate. Messed up my dwell settings to the point I couldn’t even get the system to load a bb. Reset, re-read, then changed the dwell correctly…Success! My chrono doesn’t seem to work anymore, so I have no idea how hot it’s shooting…so will need to get one of those. Any suggestions on a good one? Still need to do some tweaking. Doesn’t want to run very well on CO2, but the HPA bottles just fine. That may just be that I keep messing with the regulator screw without having a gauge or chrono(not good idea). The FCU, wire harnes, and battery are fitted in the grip. The nice thing about the 416a5 grip is that it has a quarter twist access plate, making battery/FCU access easy and toolles. I’ll get the chrono and fine tune the system then.


oh, and the sacrilege is complete!:coffee::devilish:(y)
 

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My chrono doesn’t seem to work anymore, so I have no idea how hot it’s shooting…so will need to get one of those. Any suggestions on a good one?
Acetech chronos are pretty decent for the money...the one in my profile pic is an AC5000, I dumped a midcap into it, and got the chrono to read 288.5 RPS :ROFLMAO: bbs probably bounced around, confusing the sensors.
 

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XCORTECH x3200 mk3 has a nice feature set, accurate and can be powered with AA batteries, a rechargeable pack, or USB. Option to display m/s or FPS, RPS or RPM, has independent unit auto-off and backlight auto-off settings. Two display options, large field layout with just FPS/RPS and smaller bench layout with FPS/RPS/Joules/ BB weight, etc. Accurate up to ~85rps. Memory space for 3 BB weights (can be set to whatever weight you like; I only mention this because amazon feedback is full of idiots). Requires a full ~1s burst to display RPS, otherwise will just show "----". Displays average fps for a burst instead of each shot individually in shot memory.
 

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I use the AC5000 same as Mr. Potato. In my experience it’s worked great.

Captures shots individually when using burst and FA, which I like, since it shows me the FA FPS spread.

Allows you to save 5 or 6 BB weights.

As far as I know, the thing has only glitched once, when it told me I was shooting at over 800 FPS. I was actually shooting at 425 (with .32s), and so it’s likely it just read it as two BBs.

$55 on Amazon.

I‘ve even chronoed 22lr with it…
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So I have a Promethius 6.03 r hopped 509mm ss inner barrel. As it’s been mentioned before, in other threads, it didn’t meet expectations. now I’m wondering if I should try trimming it down to ≈320mm to drop into this build. I’m wondering what are the problems with this idea?
 

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What’s the issue with it? Is it giving you FPS or FPS consistency issues or just accuracy problems?

I’ve heard rumors of trash counterfeit Prommy barrels, so chopping it may not fix your issue.

But if you do want to chop it, do you have the tools to cut, crown, and finish stainless steel properly? If so, I’d say go for it. If there’s no chance of getting your money back on it, it’s worth a shot.

Just wondering, what setup are you attempting to optimize it for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The current setup is with the OEM(VFC) 300mm barrel and hopup. I figured since I have this r hopped barrel laying around, I could cut it down to an appropriate size for the a 10” barreled gun. being a tight bored barrel, I would hope to get a few more shots out of a tank than I currently am. With the current setup, I’m running close to 500 rnds per tank at ≈340fps with .32s(Although that’s just a guess). Still a little hot, and I need to spend some time tinkering to see if I can get the numbers closer to expectation. I was guessing I should get about 800 rnds per tank.
 
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