One question, one answer thread TECHING QUESTIONS ONLY

So, question on MOSFETS and precocking.

The anti reversal latch keeps the gears from spinning backwards correct? That means if you remove this latch, your gears will spin freely in both directions.

And a MOSFET can be programmed to precock right? Where the piston head is pulled backwards, just before the last sector gear disengages, then when you pull the trigger it finishes off the cycle.

Does this mean, if you set a MOSFET to precock, and remove the reversal latch, that the gears will then just slowly unwind because there is no reversal latch to stop them? Or is that reasoning incorrect?

 

You want to leave the ARL in anyway, because preventing the spring from decompressing through the drivetrain requires the motor to be constantly powered. Passive braking (shorting the motor leads) cannot provide sufficient braking force at low speed, so the motor will have to be in a constant state of powered stall. Stall current is the maximum the motor draws, therefore lots of heat from every component in the system for an extended period of time.

I don't technically know the answer to your question but the only other alternative is highly undesirable so I will say yes you should leave the ARL in. Also, don't undersize your battery as you are stalling the motor with a much larger starting torque (peak amp draw) than a normal, non-precock gearbox.

 

I have seen how severe the damage from a missing or faulty ARL can be, that thing is there for a reason. The tappet plate is designed to withstand the force of the tappet spring, not the main spring, if the ARL doesn't stop the gears from reversing it can be subjected to a big portion of the energy stored in the main spring. You do not want this to happen, this can also do significant damage to the piston.

With cycle detection you can technically run the gearbox without an ARL, like in a Scorpion Evo, but I still wouldn't trust it 100%.

 

Got a couple one-shot questions that I have not seen answered with all kinds of search terms...

1. What's the difference between the different gear sets for versions of gearbox? I've seen the whole V2/V3 and V6/V7 but it seems like the only difference is size of the spur gear?

2. Also related to gear sets, I have two sets of V2 compatible gears where one has normal looking sawtooth ARL ratchet faces and another where the bevel's flat teeth go straight to the beveled teeth that interact with the pinion gear. Can ARLs interface with that as well?

 

my SRC baga yaga ( combat master ) got broke magazine lip. Where I can find the replacement ? I hear some rumors it same like TM magazine hicapa

 

It's based off of a Hicapa so I would assume any Hicapa feed lips would fit in it. If you know people with other brand Hicapas see how their mags feed in your pistol if you're unsure.

 

I’ve noticed a few brushless AEG motors pop up on the usual oversees discount retailers and I’ve been wondering...

Anyone know if any of them would work with a 26v lipo, and if not, if there are any components I could swap out of the ECU to make it work with 26v lipo?


I have reasons for needing this.

 

*Dragonforce intensifies*

That kind of project would be a very slow burn, this ain’t like first time when I had all my weekends free to sit at a tech bench, I got adult stuff now.

Last I checked my 6s lipo was lookin’ a little puffy.

 

Brushless motors have strict maximum RPM limitations, exceeding them can see the rotor fragmenting with destructive results. Because these AEG brushless retrofit units only care about power being applied, you can easily make a simple MOSFET switch using an appropriately rated component. I've done motor controller add-ons in the past to piggyback an existing controller to a higher voltage - with a BUK453-50B MOSFET I was able to drive a motor at up to 10s lipo as long as the motor is clamped with an appropriate kickback diode.