Orni's first personal build.

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by TheAirsoftTech, Aug 25, 2012.

  1. TheAirsoftTech

    TheAirsoftTech New Member

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    Alright, so I recently bought a JG G36c as an upgrade gun. I got it for 90$ish brand new :D

    What I want out of it is a some what realistic set-up.
    I want 17-18 RPS, good trigger response, accuracy, and range at around 365FPS.

    I have a budget, but at this time it's about 150$-200$, it could raise or lower.

    I will be ordering all of the parts I can from either EhobbyAsia or WGC Shop.

    My current parts list:

    Gears: stock JG gears. (unless it won't work, I would think it would though.)
    Spring: SHS M110.
    Bearings: SHS 7mm steel bearings. (I tried to put 7mm CA steel bushing into it and they didn't fit..... I had them laying around and thought I'd try.)
    Piston: SHS Piston full metal rack.
    Piston Head: Lonex Aluminum Piston Head with bearings.
    Spring Guide: already replaced with a modify spring guide with bearings, that I had laying around.
    Motor: Lonex A2.
    Barrel: Prometheus 6.03mm. (will be stabilized)
    Hop-up: Systema bucking and a Lonex soft bucking. (will be fine tuned)
    Airnozzle: Lonex.
    Shims: G&P shims. (already done)
    Tappet Plate: using stock one. (unless someone disagrees for a good reason)
    Wiring: 16 awg wiring. Deans. Not sure if I need anything else.
    Battery: I was thinking a 7.4 Lipo (not sure what C rating) so I don't have to install a MOSFET.

    I have already done all of the AOE, shimming, regrease/lube, and I couldn't get the compression perfect with the stcok airnozzle so, that's why a new one's on my list.

    If you have something to add, please do. As I am not as experienced as some of you.
    Constructive criticism is appreciated!

    EDIT: Also, sometimes when I switch to semi it doesn't shoot. It just makes a "click" noise whenever I pull the trigger. I think I know what's wrong with it, but I figured I should ask before I do.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2012
  2. Batman

    Batman New Member

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    If you are using a lipo you need 14 awg wiring and deans. You just do.
     

  3. levirocks

    levirocks #FreeNuggy Lifetime Supporter

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    No you don't. You can get by with 18 AWG, but 14 AWG would be recommend. Deans are a good investment and while not a 100% necesary, they will prolong the life of your gun and make it run better.
     
  4. TheAirsoftTech

    TheAirsoftTech New Member

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    Alright, could you provide a link? Please.
     
  5. levirocks

    levirocks #FreeNuggy Lifetime Supporter

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  6. TheAirsoftTech

    TheAirsoftTech New Member

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    Last edited: Aug 25, 2012
  7. Thestig

    Thestig Some say... Supporting Member

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    Colorado Springs and Southern California
    Have you looked at what motor is inside?
     
  8. TheAirsoftTech

    TheAirsoftTech New Member

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    It's the standard JG G36c motor. More specifically it says "Golden Eagle" on it.
     
  9. Batman

    Batman New Member

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    I would go with a least 16 awg if you are comfortable with rewiring.
     
  10. Njnewland

    Njnewland New Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Cherryville
    Shim, relube, correct AOE (I use sorbo, it makes it quieter, which is a plus, to me), solder on deans, I would get 16 AWG or 14 AWG wiring (if you can fit it). A FET would be a good thing to add as well. They can be had for $15.
    If the motor has a blue end bell, KEEP IT. It's perfect for this build; good trigger response, low ROF.
    Your other parts are good. You might want to try a lonex (soft, for this) bucking as well. That way you can see which bucking performs better.
    Get an SHS polycarbonate or nylon piston with a full metal rack. (15th) Also, get an m110 spring.
    No. You just don't.
    I use 16 AWG wiring all the time (with deans) with 11.1 30c+ lipos and it works great.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2012
  11. TheAirsoftTech

    TheAirsoftTech New Member

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    I'm comfortable with learning. It doesn't sound to hard, from what I'v heard. But, then again, I haven't ever done it. Lol

    Could you provide a link to good quality wire? Please. So, I may add it to my list.
     
  12. MrGoodkat

    MrGoodkat New Member

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    The 15 tooth is better so as long as you are comfortable with correcting the AoE on the 15 tooth I would reccomend getting that instead.
    Pics please.
    He wanted to get a 7.4v so he didn't have to get a FET (maybe he meant install or maybe he just wanted to save $), if it was because he didn't want to install the FET it's probably because he is uncomfortable with soldering.

    Just my $0.02

    Edit: Sniped by NJ and the OP, lol.
     
  13. TheAirsoftTech

    TheAirsoftTech New Member

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    What's the difference between the 14 teeth and the 15 teeth? Besides the lack of a tooth on one.

    I'm not necessarily uncomfortable with soldering, I'd just like to avoid it if possible.

    EDIT: Thanks NJ, I'll add the Lonex soft bucking and SHS 15 teeth piston to the list. I'll upload pics tomorrow of the motor.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2012
  14. VTMZ

    VTMZ New Member

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    Paducah
    Hey Ferb! I know what we're going to do today!
     
  15. TheAirsoftTech

    TheAirsoftTech New Member

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    Yea! I'd like that post but I'm on the APP.
    I will sig that. Lol :D
     
  16. Njnewland

    Njnewland New Member Lifetime Supporter

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    They still have the same amount of teeth, but the 14 tooth piston has 1 less metal tooth than the 15 tooth piston.
    The tooth count is just counting the metal teeth.
     
  17. TheAirsoftTech

    TheAirsoftTech New Member

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    Alright. Thanks NJ. Will the SHS bearings fit properly in my GB shell? My set of CA bushings didn't fit and they were 7mm...
     
  18. SilentVectorX

    SilentVectorX New Member

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    San Angelo
    The 14 also has less reinforcement of the guide rails, which is what causes most experienced Techs to shy away. I would avoid the Polycarb Super Shooter versions, I've heard they are much more brittle.

    If you can't get an SHS 15 tooth, a good substitute would be a Lonex (Red over Blue IMO).

    Orni, I'd also consider changing the Aluminum Piston Head to a POM version. Less weight, same durability. Make sure you still get the version with the metal screw insert (you'll see the metal embedded in the face of the piston head).
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2012
  19. TheAirsoftTech

    TheAirsoftTech New Member

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    Alright, could you provide a link to the piston head you're referring to? Please.


    EDIT: Update.
    I don't think I'll be able to get pictures of the motor today. I'm really busy today, sorry. I will try to, but it looks like tomorrow is when I'll have them up.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2012
  20. MrGoodkat

    MrGoodkat New Member

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    I like you so here ya go:
    www.clandestineairsoft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_6_20&products_id=143

    In regards to the motor take your time.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2012