Polarstar Engine Rundown

Discussion in 'Electric Guns' started by AirsoftimusPrime, Nov 27, 2012.

  1. AirsoftimusPrime

    AirsoftimusPrime New Member

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    Well, I've had mine for a while and I have done enough with it for a basic rundown. I feel this is best in the electric guns section, as it closely resembles an AEG.

    When you get your engine, it will be in a box containing the FCU you need to wire to it, and a manual. It comes stock with a blue nozzle, which delivers field safe FPS almost certainly at higher PSI levels. The thing that confused me most is how FPS, air conservation, and RPS are adjusted with the polarstar.

    The FPS of your polarstar is a factor of PSI, poppet dwell, and nozzle colour. You'll want to increase your poppet flow to JUST at the level for your barrel length and BB weight, you want it to always shoot consistently by raising poppet dwell value. Once it is consistent, lower it until it is still consistent but at the lowest possible value. This makes your shots quieter, more air efficient, and accurate as possible.

    The RPS of your polarstar is affected by a value of your rate of fire measure, PSI and nozzle dwell. Raising nozzle dwell value helps feeding, but lowering it increases RoF, and therefore RoF ceiling at the highest RoF setting (1).

    So you might be confused about PSI still- well, I was too. Raising your PSI increases RoF AND FPS. Lowering it does the opposite. Changing the colour of your nozzle will increase your FPS at a given PSI (and therefore makes shooting at a given FPS more air efficient), but don't go jumping for a red nozzle yet. You'll need higher PSI if you want a higher RoF while maintaining a field legal FPS.

    Here's a rundown of the FCU and what every setting does!

    When you get your FCU, hook it up to deans if you want (I'm going to when I feel less lazy, it comes with tamiya), plug it in. It will say one of two things: SAFE or AUTO. If it says AUTO press in on the joystick to where it says SAFE. This disables firing and allows you to move the joystick to the sides to change between settings, up and down to adjust them. When you fire your gun, the AUTO display changes to something else, FIRE.

    FAFU: Full auto; scroll to 09-01. 09 is a 9 round burst, 01 makes your gun only able to shoot semi (1 round burst)

    DN: Nozzle Dwell; How long your nozzle stays retracted. Increasing this will allow more time for your BB to load and therefore fix jamming/misfeeding often, but will lower your RoF.

    DP: Poppet Dwell; How long the poppet releases air for. Increase this to the lowest value where you always shoot at a consistent FPS for your BB weight and barrel length.

    DR: Return to battery delay; I personally don't have it on mine, but I hear it has a similar effect to poppet dwell.

    DB: Debounce Threshold; Weird feature I don't use and can't see using PERSONALLY. I see the use for it though. When you pull the trigger, if you have DB at a value over 0, it will delay time until you've shot by an amount relative to your DB. Quite noticeable at higher values.

    RF: Rate of fire; Increase value to lower RoF, decrease value to a minimum of 1 to increase RoF

    CB: Closed bolt mode; It precocks your shot. Cool feature- for those who don't know what precocking is, it loads your BB into the hopup chamber before you take your shot. Some say this makes it more accurate, it's confirmed it lowers your trigger response though. You'll dry fire your first shot of every magazine. The polarstar can dry fire without any repercussions, so this is only a shot of annoyance on the field. Worth it always in my opinion.


    The EPAR (Electro-Pneumatic Airsoft Rifle, a gas gun with an onboard computer basically) is a system that has a lot of hype, but it has it's drawbacks. Here are a few points about the polarstar you won't get from common sense.

    -The hose is something every EPAR user has made a conscious decision to deal with, including me. The hose causes way more issues in reality then in theory.

    -If you have your FCU in a crane stock, say goodbye to a couple of the closer positions. Maybe with some finesse you can fix this.

    -There are a lot of fields who ban Polarstars due to the ability to change FPS. This is stupid considering with that logic they should ban G&G F2000s and ICS split gearbox guns, but logic doesn't seem to be the main sense of fieldowners. Check before you buy.

    -If you like working on gearboxes, finally getting a polarstar can be bittersweet because justifying other guns can be annoying afterwards.

    -You don't want multiple tanks, you have to regulate your shots or you'll find yourself running out of air depending on how long you play. Have a refill station nearby or watch the trigger.

    -I personally had to fully swap to a MOLLE system to accommodate my tank.

    -The largest problem of the polarstar is, in my opinion, the fact the poppet flow is way to high. I believe it was skag who told me he was discussing a low flow poppet with Polarstar, but it's not currently available to the public. This means you'll never find a BB heavy enough for your gun, .4s are too light. The optimal weight is .88 IIRC, but if you're firing ceramic/steel BBs it better not be at people.

    Note: Everything here is from my mind, the display of what it says when not safe/firing especially is bugging me that it could be wrong. If I missed anything, I'll correct when I find out about the mistake. Feel free to correct me on anything.

    Coming soon will be exact numbers with BB weight and brand, barrel length and bore, and approximate temperature and humidity. Also a build diary! Post your own and it will be copied on the front page with your credit.

    New WIPs: New way of tuning your DP, DR, and DN using lower settings to sacrifice FPS consistency for accuracy and efficiency, personal FCU settings, and of course the build diary. Chrono is on the way, I'll test exact FPS deviation as well as accuracy, comparing the new lowest possible DP with the old lowest possible DP while maintaining FPS consistency. Will update when I can.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2012
  2. AirsoftimusPrime

    AirsoftimusPrime New Member

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    Reserved for build diaries. (Work in progress)

    ~AirsoftimusPrime~

    -G&P zombie killer CQBR lower
    -Rev1 V2 Fusion engine
    -Blue and silver nozzle
    -G&P zombie killer upper with prommy 6.03, R-Hop, M-Nub, G&P chamber, madbull red bucking. Externally it has an OD AFGII, black flash hider, and a RDS with rising cantilever.
    -G&P M16 upper with ORGA 6.23, ER-Hop, EM-Nub, KA chamber, madbull red bucking, barrel lockdown kit. Externally it has a foam filled Supressor.

    Still to do:
    -Install rev3 kit (when it comes out)
    -Red nozzle
    -Speed Airsoft blade trigger
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2012

  3. CoppertopNeasg

    CoppertopNeasg New Member

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    I propose a sticky and possible move to the gas guns section.
     
  4. AirsoftimusPrime

    AirsoftimusPrime New Member

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    It more closely represents an AEG in my opinion, but yes it truly is a hybrid, I wouldn't call it miscellaneous though. Just doesn't feel right.

    Thanks for the sticky proposition :p
     
  5. Bulldawg26

    Bulldawg26 Active Member

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    Atlanta
    +1 on the sticky recommendation. A lot of people (including me) are interested in the Polarstar and want accurate information on it. Very informational post by the way.
     
  6. Napple

    Napple New Member

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    Love this thread. I just learned more about epar than i ever thought possible
     
  7. AirsoftimusPrime

    AirsoftimusPrime New Member

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    Thanks guys! I think the EPAR system at least deserves a sticky (I can see why a whole subforum might be extreme). I'll work on the thread more on the 4 hour drive to my field Friday, and I'm still open to answering questions or any recommendations for reformatting/info to add.
     
  8. Ehudakineyah

    Ehudakineyah New Member

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    Any info on the ver.3 and how it's running?
    We getting ours on the 15th of December.

    I know the mainland guys are getting it on the 10th :p lucky guys

    I haven't had a problem with the poppet valve yet. Or the settings :/ sorry

    I'm running .3 bb's on semi at 500 fps ATM (not too crazy fps...) On my DMR with no problem. Idk if I'm mis reading the bottom of your post though -___- sorry haha

    Edit:
    Nvm, my comment has no comparison to the last post of the poppet dwell. Sorry.

    I are what you're saying about the air volume to barrel and bb weight. I haven't really taken a lot of that into consideration.

    And the polar star is pretty much a poppet valve paintball gun, chambered for 6mm.
    You can change around whatever you want if you know what you're doing. Valves, solenoids, trigger, and FCU are all about the same modding as a paintball. Just a different look. Lol just gotta wrap your mind around the fact.

    I'd honestly rather run a paintball tank set up to the grip (like a paintball gun) instead of the air hose and external rig. More maneuverable. Trying to mod a CCM 86 grip frame to the polar star box. Well... Trying to find a way first
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2012
  9. AirsoftimusPrime

    AirsoftimusPrime New Member

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    I don't like the tank on the grip idea.

    I understand the concept that it is basically a paintball gun with an e-trigger of sorts.

    If you're using a DMR setup, go for .4s at least. I tested more, .3s are too light for ~300 FPS on a blue nozzle with the polarstar overvoluming. .36s had way to much of an accuracy increase to not warrant .3s being too light.

    Have you ever used an Airsoft gun with a cylinder with way too much volume? A polarstar is even more air. Dry fire into a pillow or your hand with an AEG. Then try it with a polarstar. So much more air.

    What I'm going on a tangent about is that you SHOULD take the extra flow into consideration, it's super important. You'll see improvement!

    I haven't seen you on the forums in forever, good to see you posting again!
     
  10. Archer627

    Archer627 New Member

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    I think this deserves a sticky, as well. Mods, where are you when we need you? :p
     
  11. AirsoftimusPrime

    AirsoftimusPrime New Member

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    Thank you too. I'm not going to PM them as I feel it's not fair grounds to get a sticky- if you guys want to recommend this thread to them so they can take it under consideration feel free.
     
  12. Nelson

    Nelson Review Guru Supporting Member

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    I already sent a message to Knief and gave him a link to the thread. Hopefully this will get stickied because it was a very informative thread.
     
  13. Ehudakineyah

    Ehudakineyah New Member

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    Not too many people would like the tank on grip idea lol :) but people like paintball style stuff, and that's one thing I appreciate when I play paintball lol.

    It pretty much is a paintball gun. Different nozzle, chambered for .68 cal., same FCU. Some paintball ones can be adjusted for 60+ bps (even though they can't feed that). I'm not downing polar star, it's just that "paintball" has been around the FCU and electronic triggers longer lol. And have the same electronic adjustments, and a couple more lol.

    I just use .3 bb's cause they're free lol. Poppet valve is set to my 610mm barrel length. So my air output is fine :) haven't seem problems with over voluming since its manually set with my bb's and barrel. Was following the thread on arnies airsoft for the air volume control. Even done it ok a customer Socom Gear Barret 50 cal. And that's 650mm with the medium outer barrel.

    I know what you mean man :) yes I have shot an over volumed AEG. Even made some on purpose for the noise for CQB.
    And I always take air volume into consideration :) always need the right cylinder for the job

    Have your tried every color nozzle yet? I think the inner bore size if just different for each color. And some people have adjustable ones they have made.... Which isn't good lol.

    Haha thanks :) I've been on again in the past couple weeks actually lol
     
  14. AirsoftimusPrime

    AirsoftimusPrime New Member

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    About nozzle colour and bore... Interesting. It seems far-fetched but if you say so I'm not disregarding it. Will test eventually.

    Currently getting myself an ORGA to see how it handles the overvoluming with it's ridiculous bore.
     
  15. Ehudakineyah

    Ehudakineyah New Member

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    I can try test them if you want me to. Just let me know what barrel length to use. What psi to run it at. What settings you want me to do.

    I have every single color nozzle. Green, gold, blue black, silver, and red. Lol. I think >.< lol.

    I'm not 100% sure, but each nozzle seems to just have a bigger inlet for air. Maybe if you're over voluming (with the right settings) you can change to a higher/lower rated nozzle to overcome the over volumed barrel. Don't quote me. Just a theory.

    I'm waiting on the v3 polar star to come in on the 15th here. You guys on the mainland should be getting it around the 10th of December.
     
  16. Ehudakineyah

    Ehudakineyah New Member

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    image-2176473751.jpg

    Basic comparison of the red and blue nozzles.

    Big air inlet difference
     
  17. AirsoftimusPrime

    AirsoftimusPrime New Member

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    So wait, maybe we're just wording things differently...

    The lower nozzles are meant to lower the power so you can use higher pressures for a better RoF- so isn't that to be expected?
     
  18. AirsoftimusPrime

    AirsoftimusPrime New Member

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    Hey buddy. I could use your help. I have some leaking/jamming issues.

    Could you test the optimal poppet dwell and PSI setting for a ~300mm barrel on a .3 BB to get about 340 FPS with a blue nozzle? I know it's alot to ask if you don't have a rig like that set up, but I figure I'd ask because I am stuck here without a good list of P* settings anywhere.

    Thanks man.
     
  19. AirsoftimusPrime

    AirsoftimusPrime New Member

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    Update: Thanks for the sticky guys! I'm glad I could help some people by just answering the questions I myself had while working on my polarstar.
     
  20. Ehudakineyah

    Ehudakineyah New Member

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    Leaking jamming issues? What part along the air rig is it leaking? (gun as well).

    Jamming how?

    I just got to find a Thomson/M733 barrel (300mm).

    Blue nozzle. 340 fps with .3's. Match barrel volume. Got it.

    No worries man. But I work again on Tuesday night. My tech job isn't my full time full time job. But I'm there 5 days a week. Got my regular job on Pearl Harbor.

    I have air rigs, so no worries.

    What do you mean you don't have a good list of P* settings? You don't have the sheet?