Is the battery charged and connected?
Polarstar Jack not shooting - Please help
Hello, I have a Polarstar Jack and it suddenly stopped working.
I replaced the trigger board and solenoid (thinking maybe either of those may have been the issue) with new one’s and disassembled the Jack engine (everything is clean inside) and it still doesn’t shoot. Not even getting any “noise” from the trigger board/solenoid at all when pulling the trigger.
I have reset the FCU settings to the default settings and it is on FCF1 and the dP50 is set and the solenoid wire is connected to the Poppet connection on the trigger board. The FCU shows SHOOT and then FIRE when pulling the trigger.
I made sure that the air lines are not obstructed internally and pass air as they should. The engine fills with air immediately and the nozzle backs into the engine as it should when hooking up the air tank.
Can someone please give me some assistance/insight as to what the issue may be.
Appreciate it,
Joshua
I replaced the trigger board and solenoid (thinking maybe either of those may have been the issue) with new one’s and disassembled the Jack engine (everything is clean inside) and it still doesn’t shoot. Not even getting any “noise” from the trigger board/solenoid at all when pulling the trigger.
I have reset the FCU settings to the default settings and it is on FCF1 and the dP50 is set and the solenoid wire is connected to the Poppet connection on the trigger board. The FCU shows SHOOT and then FIRE when pulling the trigger.
I made sure that the air lines are not obstructed internally and pass air as they should. The engine fills with air immediately and the nozzle backs into the engine as it should when hooking up the air tank.
Can someone please give me some assistance/insight as to what the issue may be.
Appreciate it,
Joshua
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Yes, the battery is charged and connected.Is the battery charged and connected?
And the circuits are not shorted and connected?
As far as I can tell, but it would seem that it would be caused by either the main wire harness or the FCU since I have already replaced the solenoid and trigger board. Sounds like no electrical pulse is getting to the solenoid so either there is a continuity issue with the harness or the FCU is not producing a pulse.
And the circuits are not shorted and connected?
I had a similar issue with my F2 where only one solenoid was working. For me, the wire harness was faulty. But that was from the start. Yours just suddenly stopped working.
Are any of the wires of the wire harness damaged?
Are any of the wires of the wire harness damaged?
The wire harness looks to be intact, but I'll check them again.I had a similar issue with my F2 where only one solenoid was working. For me, the wire harness was faulty. But that was from the start. Yours just suddenly stopped working.
Are any of the wires of the wire harness damaged?
It would seem that it would be caused by either the main wire harness or the FCU since I already replaced the solenoid and trigger board.
Looks like no electrical pulse is getting to the solenoid so either there is a continuity issue with the harness or the FCU is not producing a pulse.
Thanks,
Joshua
I'm having the same problem. Did you ever get it solved? If so what was the issueHello, I have a Polarstar Jack and it suddenly stopped working. I replaced the trigger board and solenoid (thinking maybe either of those may have been the issue) with new one’s and disassembled the Jack engine (everything is clean inside) and it still doesn’t shoot. Not even getting any “noise” from the trigger board/solenoid at all when pulling the trigger. I have reset the FCU settings to the default settings and it is on FCF1 and the dP50 is set and the solenoid wire is connected to the Poppet connection on the trigger board. The FCU shows SHOOT and then FIRE when pulling the trigger. I made sure that the air lines are not obstructed internally and pass air as they should. The engine fills with air immediately and the nozzle backs into the engine as it should when hooking up the air tank. Can someone please give me some assistance/insight as to what the issue may be. Appreciate it, Joshua
That guy has not posted or been seen on the site since the day after this post. So I don’t suspect that he’ll answer. If you click on the poster’s avitar, you can see the date they joined and the last day they were seen. You can also see from the last post, the date it was made. This will keep necroposting down.
Now to your problem. Did you install it yourself, and it worked at some point? You know your battery’s not dead, there’s power to the trigger board, and the trigger board reacts to a trigger pull? When the system is hooked up to a known charged healthy battery, is there any clicking happening in the engine(without it being hooked up to air)? How long did your system work before the problem occurred? From the last time it worked to when it stopped working, what changed? Where do you have the battery and battery harness located in the gun, ie: buffer tube, pistol grip, handguard? Are the wires attached to the solenoid correctly, and to the correct part of the trigger board? The board has different attachment points for the single solenoid and double solenoid models. That can lead to inoperable system conditions. The battery wire harness being tugged too hard can break solder points causing the system to malfunction or just not operate at all. The trigger board maybe functioning and the solenoid may be damaged or defective. There are lots of things that can be the issue, so the questions above will help us point you in the right direction for diagnosis.
Now to your problem. Did you install it yourself, and it worked at some point? You know your battery’s not dead, there’s power to the trigger board, and the trigger board reacts to a trigger pull? When the system is hooked up to a known charged healthy battery, is there any clicking happening in the engine(without it being hooked up to air)? How long did your system work before the problem occurred? From the last time it worked to when it stopped working, what changed? Where do you have the battery and battery harness located in the gun, ie: buffer tube, pistol grip, handguard? Are the wires attached to the solenoid correctly, and to the correct part of the trigger board? The board has different attachment points for the single solenoid and double solenoid models. That can lead to inoperable system conditions. The battery wire harness being tugged too hard can break solder points causing the system to malfunction or just not operate at all. The trigger board maybe functioning and the solenoid may be damaged or defective. There are lots of things that can be the issue, so the questions above will help us point you in the right direction for diagnosis.
Everything is connected in the right spots. My gun was working until the wires to the fcu came off. I was trying to test my gun, so what I did was electrical tape the wires onto the fcu, and then test my gun. I tried it and the FCU showed Shot and Fire, but then the noise of the FCU/Solenoids stopped happening. (the clicking noise). So it may be possible that I shorted one of the parts. I'm just unsure of which part because I am inexperienced. After I got my FCU soldered, I tested my gun and I still didn't get the clicking noise. I then plugged my IGL in with a full tank, and the nozzle didnt even retract. This was the case even before soldering.
Double check that the wire from the board to the solenoid is fully attached at both the solenoid and the board. Can you take a photo of the board/engine gearbox stuff? If everything is hooked up properly, you may have fried the board, but boards can be replaced if that’s the case. But lets see what we can gleam from a photo.
When I press the trigger the FCU says shot, auto, fire so I'm sure the connection between the FCU and Trigger board are fine.Double check that the wire from the board to the solenoid is fully attached at both the solenoid and the board. Can you take a photo of the board/engine gearbox stuff? If everything is hooked up properly, you may have fried the board, but boards can be replaced if that’s the case. But lets see what we can gleam from a photo.
Ya, but check the connections between the board and the solenoids. I thought you said it was a jack, so I was only referring to one solenoid. Also just double check that the upper solenoid is plugged into J3. It looks like it is, but the air line and battery line are covering them up. THere also seems to be some exposed wires at the J3 plug. New board is $30, and the solenoid leads are $7 from p*, if you need to replace them. You mentioned plug being ripped out and resoldered? Can you tell me more about that story. Don’t leave out any details if you can help it. How, who Did the soldering?
S1 looks ruffed up….
S1 looks ruffed up….
S1 is rough from the trigger rubbing against it. So I got the engine second hand and the wires came off of the FCU. It was soldered by the previous owner. The wires came off again and it was soldered by an airsoft tech.
Also, the upper solenoid is plugged into j3. Everything is in it's correct spot.
So it sounds like there’s no power getting to the solenoids. If you have a multimeter, you may want to check the to see it the wires are still good, is current going through the wire. Then you may want to see if the plug ports, J3 and J2 specifically. If there’s no signal going to the J ports, then you need a new board. If the wires are failing then you need new wires. If you have a buddy with a P* that’s willing to hook your engine up to his board, and you can figure out if it’s the board, wires, or the solenoids. I am leaning towards a board issue.
My two cents would to be to just buy a new board and soleniod leads. Amped Airsoft sells the board for $25, and the leads for $5.50 Each. So under $40 and the problem should be solved. My guess would be that the damage repaired twice, is the cause of your head ache.
My two cents would to be to just buy a new board and soleniod leads. Amped Airsoft sells the board for $25, and the leads for $5.50 Each. So under $40 and the problem should be solved. My guess would be that the damage repaired twice, is the cause of your head ache.
Thank you so much for the help. I have a buddy who is going to help me identify the problem. He has a p*. I'll be fine with a trigger board. I hope and pray my solenoids aren't fried.
Glad I could help, even if it’s just a little. Let me know how it turns out after you and your buddy get done! Good luck!
Did you ever find out what the issue was? I have the same exact issueThank you so much for the help. I have a buddy who is going to help me identify the problem. He has a p*. I'll be fine with a trigger board. I hope and pray my solenoids aren't fried.
So I got a new trigger board and that did not help.Glad I could help, even if it’s just a little. Let me know how it turns out after you and your buddy get done! Good luck!
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