Ravens' tech thread

So I have been on a teching 'binge' lately and I have thought that insted of making a thread every time I have a question I would make a thread and keep all my thoughts here.

Projects in the near future:
I will be posting my guide on how I have made my pre-cocking sector gear soon.
Guide is finished
I will be helping upgrade my friends KWA g36 this weekend so I will post how that goes.
Work has been finished
I am going to rewire my CM16 and add mosfets to all my guns and said friends gun this weekend also, should be fun.
Mosfets still need to be installed

Possible projects:
JG Sig 550 DMR. My friend wants a 550 'DMR' and I will be helping with that, no eta.
Goals: 400fps w/ .20 (field limits) 12in groups at 250'
SHS 15t, Lonex POM PH, SHS 13:1, SHS HT motor, ERHop, rewired and other mods.
'DMR' Famas, best bet next spring at the soonest.
Goals: 400fps w/ .20 (field limits) 12in groups at 250'
SHS 15t, Lonex POM, SHS 20:1, HC HT motor, ERHop, and mods.
DSG CM16, will be done by December.
HPA G39 w/ High-cap magazine.


So if any of you have any thoughts on these projects of mine I would love to here them. I am no way ready to do a DMR today, but hey, I hope to build one before the year 2014 comes to a close.

EDIT: Updated project list.

 

That's what got me thinking of finally making one.
A guide on my Pre-cocking sector gear should be done in a few if you want to take a look.

 

Raven's Guide to a Pre-Cocking sector.

This is an idea I got while Bejon was talking about overspin.
I would like to thank the following members for giving me great feed back on my other thread:
Bejon, Magpulman, Marine, TheInfidel, BoogerMC, Archer,and Schultze.

Here is ZaCkOXs' warning.

"Now to clearify the problem with your pre-cocking method. I am not saying it doesn't work. It just needs pre-cautions which are not really stated.

This isn't really your fault but it isn't stated clearly that pulling the ARL on stiff springs risks breaking a gearbox. This type of knowledge comes from people that have seen what happens. I once tried to pull the ARL manually on a M150 and it broke the sector gear teeth. I realized what had happened. The gears were spinning backwards and I had let go of the ARL which caused it to snap back into place stopping the motion. The problem is the spring is forcing the gears that direction and when stopped the momentum still is there because of the spring. So in other words it couldn't continue to rotate and broke teeth because the spring was forcing the gears to still move."

With that out of the way I will begin to tell you about this new sector gear.
It is a mechanical way to pre-cock your gun. It's that simple, and the build is so simple you might be wondering why there was not a thread on this before*.

*I cannot say with 100% accuracy that there has never been a thread on this, I just have not found one.

So begin.
You will need the following:
Dremel with cutting and grinding attachments
JB Weld. For this I used a 6-5 ratio of steel to hardener
Knife
File
Sector gear
Paperclip
Degreaser (Dawn or Ajax will work)


First thing you will need to do is get al you tools organized in your work area and double check that you have everything that you need and that your work area is clean and unobstructed.

So, now can we work?. Not yet.
Before you can work on the gears you will need to remove all that sticky grease (Chinese or your own) from the gear.
This will help the JB Weld adhere to the gear and not come off when in operation.

Once you have got all the grease off you can start working.
Begin by taking off the small 'nub' that is there to activate the cutoff lever.

Once you have cut it off proceed to smooth it down with the grinder attachment until it is semi round and all traces of the original nub is gone.

Then you will need to add the JB Weld to the position where you want the new nub. I put mine 180 degrees from where the original nub was positioned and achieved a 3/4 cycle, but 90 degrees should get you a 1/4 cycle.
Do not be afraid to add a little more than you need. You will need to make the pile of JB Weld larger than the size of the nub you are replacing.
To do this I used a paperclip.


Once you have let the JB Weld sit for 5-6 hours it should be hard enough to work on, but not completely set.
Now cut the pile down to the size of the old nub and file the sides smooth; I would keep the nub slightly bigger than the factory nub until you can verify that it will work in your gearbox.

Make sure the top of the nub is low enough to avoid rubbing against the inside of the gearbox, it will make shimming a pain and could cause the nub chip or fall off.
After you are done with shaping your new nub let it sit over night or 24 hours for it to fully cure. You don't want it to fall off in your gearbox.

Now you can install the sector gear and tune your gearbox; if you need to you can shape the nub to the right size to ensure it will function just like the factory nub and activate the cutoff lever.

Now go out and enjoy your greatly improved trigger response with out the need of a computerized mosfet.

Edit: Now fifth draft; new pictures and reworded.
Please comment and tell me you thoughts.

 

You were the first user I mentioned
Edited you in again.

Yeah I do need more pictures for the guide, I may try to expand the guide this weekend when I upgrade my friends KWA.

I am staring at the gates of techs' nightmares, but I will go forth and emerge out of the storm,victorious.

I may be exaggerating how bad a KWA GB is.

Edit: I have edited the guide to second draft.

 

I face the shadows in the valley of death, but I shall fear no evil.

My first try I used a welder to add material so you may be confusing what tools I used with that.
I will look into the guide and see if I did leave anything out though.

Thanks for pointing that out, editing in now.

 

So on my last thread there was a discussion on how to reset the piston so it does not compress the spring when not in use.
I found this:
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=586

I was wondering if it would drop into my CM16 GB, or would I need to modify it a bit for it to work?

 

Ok, thanks.

So I will be doing a DSG latter this winter and I have already gathered a list of possible components. Just looking for thoughts on this.

All from Clandestine:
Seigetech(?) DSG $55
Core SP130 $5.50
ZCI cylinder, type 0 so I can port $6.50
SHS 15 tooth piston $9
Sorbo 1/4 thickness $5
Lonex POM $15
Super lube silicone $8
HS5 Rhop 3-pack $11.50
Shimmed, AoE, DIY mods, ect.

I do have a 300mm barrel if that will be a problem. As far as I know the ideal length for a DSG is 260mm.

Just a alpha build list.
looking to hear anyones thoughts or suggestions on this.

 

So an SP140. I should note that my field limit is 400fps with .2s'.

I already have a JG red, and my lipos are on their way.

 

It's shooting 18rps on shs 16:1 gears and a 9.6v battery right now. I will be using the stock XYT 18:1 gears for the DSG and a 7.4 1800 mah 20-40c lipo to power the drivetrain.

 

Not really, I just want to test the waters on this and expand my teching skill.

Teching is something that I really like to do. So this build, and maybe a couple DMRs', on my resumé would help me expand my skill to the point where I could start turning all the time I have invested into airsoft into some money. (Needless to say, to invest into airsoft.)

But that is just a hope right now.

Edit: random though.
Could I make a high-cap feed faster (at a higher rof) if I rewound the spring in the magazine?