Super Alloy 1 potmetal repair experience?

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by Automobilie, Oct 13, 2018.

  1. Automobilie

    Automobilie Active Member

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    I've been looking around for new tools to stick in my toolbox.

    Someone had mentioned most airsoft guns are made of Zamak 3,4 or 5, which is a zinc alloy. If guns are made of a standard zinc alloy, they might be solderable, and I did some some digging.

    Super Alloy 1 keeps popping up and it is advertised as working on Zamak alloys, but it's $60 a pop!

    Do any of you guy's have experience with the stuff or have alternative soldering materials for pop metal repairs?
     
    link0 likes this.
  2. Automobilie

    Automobilie Active Member

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  3. adas1223

    adas1223 Well-Known Member

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    Uller is the pot metal gun fabricator here on the forums. i know he uses HTS2000. He recommended that to me but it seems like the melting points are similar to pot metal, as the Airsoft metal will start to expand and bubble as it starts takes in the HTS2000.

    Super alloy 1 looks very promising. I feel like the price is justified for the ease of use. i say go for it. i might have to try this stuff too.
     
    link0 and FuLL-eFFekT1 like this.
  4. -Spitfire-

    -Spitfire- Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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  5. Uller

    Uller Well-Known Member

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    Now this is interesting.I just might have to rustle up a bundle of these and test them out.See the deal is on the old guns they used exclusively pot metal which actually holds up better to brazing than crap they use now.I found this out the hard way trying to repair a broken takedown pin tab on a G28 upper.The crap that thing is made of has a melting temp less than alluminum by a large margin in my guestimation.The tab started to distort meer minutes after heating,and this was with the white part of the flame only a 1/4" or so long on an oxycetaline setup.
     
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  6. Automobilie

    Automobilie Active Member

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    When I was reading about Zamac 3-5, the temps were in the 730F-750F range. Some of the brazing rod I was looking at was in the 710F range. Way too close for a propane torch.

    I might try some. Could be good for stripped screw holes!
     
  7. cetane

    cetane Well-Known Member

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    I was going to try some of the solderit brand aluminum soldering paste. It’s suppose to be ok for pot metals. Melts at like 450*F. I have a vfc upper m4 that needs fixing up.
     
  8. Uller

    Uller Well-Known Member

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    Just a small update to this.I ordered the full kit of Super Alloy 1.When it arrives I'll be giving this a go to see how it works.If its as easy to use as the video suggests,win.I tried to look up the strength of the Alloy 1,but came up empty handed.There is info on the Alloy 5 on this.We shall see soon enough.
     
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  9. Automobilie

    Automobilie Active Member

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    I believe SA1 is 20k psi compared to Zamac's 30k psi. Not quite as strong, but should be good enough with some reinfirced screws.

    Mine came in a bit ago and I had tried to repair a CA P90 receiver, but I had a very hard time keeping it from cracking at the point between the two metals. Perhaps the CA has a lot of aluminum in it?
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2018
  10. Uller

    Uller Well-Known Member

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    You need a heat sink.Good chance to try out that blue paste they sell
     
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  11. -Spitfire-

    -Spitfire- Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Their new stuff does.. Doubt their old stuff did though.
     
  12. Automobilie

    Automobilie Active Member

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    I mean it was hairline cracking after I was done milling the excess off. Just didn't seem to hold onto the receiver that well.
     
  13. Uller

    Uller Well-Known Member

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    Doubtful its too much alluminum.Alluminum has a melting point of 1221 degrees,whereas zinc has a melting point of 720 give or take.
     
  14. Uller

    Uller Well-Known Member

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  15. Automobilie

    Automobilie Active Member

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    Thanks for the link. I just pecked through it, maybe I had too much metal or not enough heat on it.

    I'll be curious if you are able to get good results.
     
  16. Uller

    Uller Well-Known Member

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    You and me both actually.I have alot of experience with HTS2000.You have to be careful using it or you can quite literally puddle stuff.When I get hone ill post some builds here I used HTS2000 on.
     
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  17. kazuchan

    kazuchan Member

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    Can't wait it, I have HTS2000 too but still not know the proper way to fix...
     
  18. Uller

    Uller Well-Known Member

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    119.JPG 120.JPG M200 045.jpg
     
  19. Automobilie

    Automobilie Active Member

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    Are these all with alumiweld?
     
  20. Uller

    Uller Well-Known Member

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    All with HTS2000.The top one I used it to make the Magpul G3 stock adapter,and to stretch out a Nitro SAS rail with.On the second yet another stock adapter,and shorten and splice a Nitro SAS rail because that guns cocking tube was cut between SAS length and MP5 length.On the bottom one it was used to fill in the indent on the PDW receiver that allowed room for the skeleton stock latch to the side of the receiver.I got more,but these are some examples of the things I do.The Alloy 1 would be cool to use if I could get good results from it.