TheStig's G36 build!

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by Thestig, Sep 29, 2012.

  1. Thestig

    Thestig Some say... Supporting Member

    1,263
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    Colorado Springs and Southern California
    Yes, you read that right, I am finally building up my G36. I know what I am taking on, and I have done tech work before, but I am already running into problems I have never even heard of before.

    First off, I shredded a piston. Shimming seemed to be fine, if not a little tight, and I removed the first tooth, and added Sorbo to the Cylinder head.

    Second off, I had a 6mm gearbox shell in the gun, but I wanted to switch to a 7mm shell to help the gun out a bit. I can not for the life of me get the selector plate on though! I will attach pics below of the gearbox, if anybody knows anything, please say something! I seem to think it is a CYMA AK shell.


    Third, I am building a med ROF gun, should I use the dumpy piston head given, or use an aluminum one I have?

    Lastly, I have just about every cylinder type imaginable. Which one should I pick, and why?

    Edit: Photo's up!

    Also, I added a picture of gears I just got. I think they are a combo of XYT,G&P, and Guarder, but not 100%. Should I pick from the pile, and risk it, or use the stock gears, on the right?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 30, 2012
  2. Hydra572

    Hydra572 New Member

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    Nice collection of parts you have there man.

    Selector plates are above my pay grade, but might I ask why you want the 7mm box? I have no experience with them, but I've heard people say that 6 and 8 both work better than 7.

    I assume this was a JG G36? If so, might as well just use the stock gears.

    As for the piston, all I can do is reccomend you check out these:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfhTbUj4h-k&feature=player_embedded#!
    http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/how-shim-like-true-mechanic-30461/
    and just this is in general if you wanna take the time to read it, it's a wealth of information. http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/various-tips-guides-thread-34405/

    As for the cylinder, what length barrel are you going to be using?
     

  3. EDI1st

    EDI1st New Member

    2,062
    3
    Fountain Valley
    Bad AoE and pre-engagement.
    AoE isn't just adding sorbo and shaving a tooth or two, you HAVE to actually check the angle when the sector picks up the piston with the spring in.

    Piston head, use POM ones, keep the weight down as much as possible

    Well....bushing size...
    Usually bigger is better just because the bushing itself can handle more stress as long as they are built with the same material and process/quality.

    High RoF, best way to do it is short stroking.
     
  4. IHOP

    IHOP New Member

    5,426
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    Rockton
    EDI is right. You don't just add some sorbo and take down the second tooth. You add the sorbo or washer, then see how far the angle was moved back. You want the sector to pick up the piston at or just after 12 o'clock. Once that's all set, you need to remove the teeth that interfere from moving it back. Usually, it's the 2nd, and half the third, but is isn't standard. It can vary. You need to check it instead of throwing it together.
     
  5. Thestig

    Thestig Some say... Supporting Member

    1,263
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    Colorado Springs and Southern California
    The gun was an Asia Electric Gun G36C, ad I will use the stick barrel, at 247. 7mm is explained by EDI below.
    I did that, and it looked fine. It matched up with every picture of every guide I had read, and every video I had seen. So I guess throwing in a CA Swiss Cheesed piston with the first 3 pickup teeth gone, and missing the last metal tooth, and a higher rated spring should fix that problem?
    That brings in another problem. I have about 5 springs that they guy sent me, without knowing what they are. Gotta find that out.

    And lastly, is taking the time to switch to the 7mm box worth it? I have metal bushings for it, but not for the 6mm box, and I can't order anything until I move some crap.
     
  6. Hydra572

    Hydra572 New Member

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    With a 247 you want the variety of cylinder that has the slot cut around 1/4 of the way down the cylinder, with the port closer to the stock of the gun than to the barrel.

    I would use the 7mm box with metal bushings, then. If you can't make the selector plate work, then buy either a new selector plate, some 6mm bearings, or both.
     
  7. EDI1st

    EDI1st New Member

    2,062
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    Fountain Valley
    Short stroking prevents pre-engagement.
    It's the same concept why you NEED DSG if you want to build something insanely fast.

    Spring wise, just pick the one that's the hardest to compress.

    7mm bushings, you sure they are steel? :p
     
  8. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    There's no need to short stroke the piston and sector if you're not attempting to pass 35rps. With an M110 or M120 spring and a properly swisscheesed piston you can safely go up to at least 35 rps without short stroking. I have ran into issues fitting non-CYMA selector plates on CYMA gearbox shells, it seems they use a slightly different design than other manufacturers. The bushings size is pretty irrelevant as long as you're using solid steel, oil-less bushings and glue them in place properly. As for the cylinder type, my P90 has a 247mm barrel and the port is slightly further forward than 1/4, I would say closer to 1/3 of the way forward, you'll just have to try a couple different cylinders with the ports in that area until you find the most optimal cylinder.
     
  9. Thestig

    Thestig Some say... Supporting Member

    1,263
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    Colorado Springs and Southern California
    Actually, the 7mm bushings that are one of the few parts I have that I know about. They are SHS steel.

    Thing is, the piston I am going to throw in already is SS'ed by one tooth, so I think I will keep it that way. I figured out the issue with the selector plate. My G36 one was thicker, and so I just filed off the paint on the GB shell, and it was all good. Got the motor contacts over, going to start building the actual gearbox now. Any thing else I should know before I start?

    Here is the part list so far, remember, I am building this all with stuff I have laying around:
    TM EG700 motor
    SHS 7MM bushings
    Asia Electric Gun Gears (Came stock)
    CA piston (yellow, see discussion above)

    To be determined:
    Spring (Stiffest one available)
    Cylinder (Will look and find right one)

    Everything else remains stock.

    Anything else?
     
  10. Hydra572

    Hydra572 New Member

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    Superior
    Most of the stuff you posted already looks pretty good, but you might as well polish the GB, cylinder, etc, if you are able.
     
  11. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    The EG700 motor is pretty good. I ran one in my old TM MP5K with an 11.1v li-po and standard ratio gears. It did 27rps with an M110 and 25rps with an M120 spring, not bad for an old stock ferro motor.
     
  12. EDI1st

    EDI1st New Member

    2,062
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    Fountain Valley
    Armature of EG motors in a neo magnet can = win.
     
  13. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I actually did that to my old EG700, not very fast, but damn good torque.
     
  14. Thestig

    Thestig Some say... Supporting Member

    1,263
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    Colorado Springs and Southern California
    Ok, so here is the mid day update: I spent a lot of time working on it, an discovered that the paint it a lot thicker on the 7mm box, throwing a lot of stuff off. Also, the motor cage is different, so I am custom filing it down to work. There are also a couple of other things that need to be filed down in order to make this work.

    Lastly, unless D boys use Neo motors, I don't have one lying around to do that with...
     
  15. Thestig

    Thestig Some say... Supporting Member

    1,263
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    Colorado Springs and Southern California
    When polishing the inside of the gearbox, would it be okay to use aluminum polish, given that I wash it off?
     
  16. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    No need to polish the inside of the gearbox, just clean it with dishwashing soap and water.
     
  17. Thestig

    Thestig Some say... Supporting Member

    1,263
    1
    Colorado Springs and Southern California
    Ok, so my weekend update:
    Opened up a new superglue, and it was already solid, so I have to wait until I can go and get some more to glue in my bushings and start shimming. In the meantime, I was going to do the upper assembly, but I came across something I have no idea on. My old spring attached to my piston head, holding the whole thing together. Now, I was planning on using the same head, but without the metal piece in the piston (that is heavy) to hold it there, it won't stay. Picture below. Is the answer simple, and I am just being daft?
     
  18. Ze_Glocksman

    Ze_Glocksman New Member

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    Kerrville
    I have the same problem in my g36. I want to get rid of it but without it it won't screw into anything. I think you do have to get a new piston head if you wanted the metal piece gone. Not entirely sure either though.
     
  19. S0m3_0n3

    S0m3_0n3 New Member

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    you could try and fit a nut inside the piston, that's what someone did to a gb I got. no clue how they got it inside though, none of my pliers reach
     
  20. Thestig

    Thestig Some say... Supporting Member

    1,263
    1
    Colorado Springs and Southern California
    I could do that, or I could reduce the weight of the current nut, and not make it connect to the spring.

    Is it okay to just have the spring unfastened in the gearbox, without having it fastened to the piston or piston head?