Featured to much motor?

Discussion in 'Beginners Forum' started by S.I.T., Jul 25, 2020.

  1. S.I.T.

    S.I.T. New Member

    21
    2
    Great Falls
    Friend of mine gave me a
    ASG Ultimate Boost 40k Custom Motor (Type: Short Axel), I was able to get it working in my cybergun 1928 tommy, also rewired it. Metal bushings,shimmed, burning through BB's like crazy. Was advised to get a m 125 or 130 spring and up grade my piston and piston head. Good Idea or not?
     
  2. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Well-Known Member Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

    6,136
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    Minneapolis

  3. S.I.T.

    S.I.T. New Member

    21
    2
    Great Falls
    very new to this, what would you recommend??
     
  4. Evan J Johnston

    Evan J Johnston Member

    53
    20
    Libertyville
    The term "upgrade" in this sense is misleading. Whatever you were told, I think their intention was to prepare you for a high stress build. On stock gears with m100 or m110 spring, the only true upgrade to prepare for a more powerful motor is proper shimming. If your gears are shimmed properly with minimal lateral movement, and your piston teeth are still healthy, there's no reason you'd absolutely need steel teeth on the piston in this type of build. Although, it never hurts to have the last few teeth be made of steel because when those teeth are engaged, they are holding the spring in its most compressed state. If your piston head is not ported (has little holes in it), then yes it would only be beneficial to replace that with one that does. You could go with an aluminum one if you want but in reality, the plastic ones hold up just fine and actually put less stress on your cylinder head and gearbox casing. The application of aluminum for a piston head is good for the use of a steel ball bearing on the piston head, which is only necessary for high stress builds. In a stock gun, if you have a bearing on the spring guide, you're set. No need for an additional bearing on the other end of the spring in this case.
    It is imperative that you go do your research before changing out to "upgrade" parts. People call a lot of things "upgrades" but in reality, each type of part and the materials used have pros and cons.
    If you just want a little faster ROF, that ASG motor will be fine if you use a weaker spring.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2020
  5. S.I.T.

    S.I.T. New Member

    21
    2
    Great Falls
  6. S.I.T.

    S.I.T. New Member

    21
    2
    Great Falls
    this is why I had to replace the motor with the one my friend gave me. the prev owner cut all wire's to get gear box out. replaced with Ultimate Boost 40k Custom Motor. and was advised to get a steel tooth piston. I just want it to shoot right.
     
  7. S.I.T.

    S.I.T. New Member

    21
    2
    Great Falls
    thank you for the info.Shim has very VERY little play, motor and bushings re the only two parts that are not original.
     
  8. Evan J Johnston

    Evan J Johnston Member

    53
    20
    Libertyville
    Is something wrong with the stock motor? I just see that the wires aren't attached thoroughly and are clipped in a few spots. You can use that ASG motor as is but definitely do not put a stronger spring in. If you're doing a lot of full auto, the faster ROF from that ASG motor will wear your piston quicker and probably waste a lot of BBs.
    If you just want straight up reliability, no crazy ROF, get a higher TPA motor with neodymium magnets. ZCI balanced motor would be a solid option:
    https://www.brillarmory.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=39_65&products_id=187
    For the future, I recommend starting your own WIP thread and include lots of pictures to log the work you do on your guns. Whenever you have a question about something, you can refer people to your WIP thread so they can see exactly what you're working with if you're unsure.
     
  9. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Well-Known Member Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

    6,136
    3,751
    Minneapolis
    Ummm...let's simplify this. Evan, with a few of your comments...you are going to lead him down the rabbit hole even deeper.

    You don't need a NEO motor. Not if the gears are stock. It's not just about TPA and magnets.

    OP, if you put in a M135. That will raise your AEG in excess of 440FPS. Does your field allow an AEG to shot that hard...at people?

    Also that picture looks like they stripped the connector from the motor too...did you get any new connectors?
     
    Evan J Johnston likes this.
  10. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

    6,108
    1,719
    Unless you're broke I advice you to take this gun to a competent tech. The current setup is a hodge podge. This gun just needs a wiring job, a new motor isn't necessary and the ASG 40k isn't a particularly good motor.
     
  11. S.I.T.

    S.I.T. New Member

    21
    2
    Great Falls
    currently on disability. lung damage from caused by some burning oil fields in the middle east you may have heard of. Ya the gun had many a wrong thing done to it you folks have helped quite a bit and thank you. one list thing fallowed a utube on how to check the compression {well aware of this, I work on engines} Piston just slides in and out. no pressure what so ever. Would just replacing the "O" ring help or do I need a new piston head?
     
  12. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Well-Known Member Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

    6,136
    3,751
    Minneapolis
    You are not doing the compression test with the Air Nozzle on the cylinder head air tube are you?
     
  13. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I see, hiring a tech might not be viable then. I would leave the compression assembly as it is for now and focus on the wiring. Do you have a soldring iron? If you do you can just solder the wires on to the motor terminals.

    It looks like the motor wires may have been placed incorrectly inside the grip, so they may be damaged. Looks like they're supposed to place on the fornt and back of the motor cage.
     
  14. S.I.T.

    S.I.T. New Member

    21
    2
    Great Falls
    empty tube nozzle end flat on rubber mat, Drop piston in open end and it falls through. I video this today, get a better idea.
     
  15. Evan J Johnston

    Evan J Johnston Member

    53
    20
    Libertyville
    Compression test should be done with just the piston, piston head, cylinder, and cylinder head. Do not include the air nozzle which slides back and forth on the cylinder head tube in this test. Many times, the addition of some silicone oil is all that is needed. Of course, inspect o-rings. If they are brittle or cracked or do not return to shape after being stretched, time for new ones. If you are still not getting airseal after these checks, inspect piston head and cylinder head for cracks and clearance. Ideally, the cylinder head should sit quite firmly in the cylinder. The tighter the better for this one. For PH, its kind of a balance. The O-ring should obviously be large enough to form a seal on the cylinder walls, but too large and it can create more friction and lose some velocity. That said, having an airseal is better than not. It might be a good idea to remove the piston head for inspection. Some pistons/piston heads are not keyed, however, so removal and replacement can be tricky. I found a rubber oven mitt to work perfectly for gripping the PH.
    20200728_125756.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2020