Any AEG can run "any" battery as long as the voltage is within spec of the AEG's operating design.
Not true - the internal resistance and chemistry needs to match the power delivery and usage demands of the application. "Voltage is voltage" is a flawed statement that only holds true in an open circuit
As-is this implies AAA alkalines or Titan li-ion batteries are acceptable for AEG use, when in reality they are both laughably underpowered. On the other hand, we don't go out and buy 150C lipos for our bluetooth speakers because they don't need expensive batteries that can handle 500A bursts.
Running your electric LMG on a car battery until you hit voltage cutoff is not desirable either. Even though it has great voltage and constant current specifications for an AEG, standard lead-acid batteries do not like being deep discharged and that means the chemistry is not suited for this application.
Less resistance can mean a couple more rps in some cases.
True, although I don't think people take into consideration that a computerized MOSFET controller (like the Titan) results in a drop on RPS due to the complexity of the control circuit compared to a more direct implementation.
LiPo's tend to produce more amperage than NiMH's, and this increased amperage coupled with the jump from 9.6v to 11.1v can cause the trigger contacts to arc, which is not ideal.
Amperage is not produced by a battery, it is drawn by a load. Ohm's Law V=IR. Lipo batteries tend to have a lower internal resistance than NiMH, which means they can sustain higher current before overheating, and also why the motor will 'see' more effective voltage if all other variables are kept identical.
Guges posted video proof that amperage does not increase in an AEG just because voltage changes.
Trigger contact arcing is caused by inductive back-EMF from the motors, which can be suppressed by kickback diodes connected to the motor terminals. Marui spec trigger switches can arc regardless of what you use to power it. Surface pitting caused by arcing leads to lifespan reduction of the switch assembly, but the higher constant current passing through may exceed the spec and melt the switch especially if lipo batteries are paired with a more powerful motor.
Yes it does. It does seem as if it is shorting through this, but I can't see how. Should I remove the plate? I could rig something up to bypass the plate, but would this be feasible?
The metal plate is due to Marui spec trigger switches having an electrical safety through the hole in the gearbox underneath it. If your trigger switch does not have contacts that the selector plate touches, then the metal plate on the selector is redundant and can be removed.
I did some diagnosing earlier today and found that it only misbehaves when the grip screws are tightened all the way. If I leave them backed off a little bit (enough to keep the grip firm, but not reefed on), it does not misfire. But when I was using it, apparently my holding it produces the same effect that tightening the grip screws does, and it fires again abnormally.
Check carefully for pinched wires or damaged insulation around the bottom of the gearbox, potentially in the gearbox around where the motor enters. I am currently working on an MP5K that randomly goes into uncontrollable full auto likely because the trigger switch wires to the MOSFET got pinched.