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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Because this gun is new and people are still getting there hands on them, I don't know if the upgrades suggested by evike are appropriate. Hence I am looking for second opinions from the forum. Not to discredit them, just looking for more opinions.

The gun is the new p90 with a spring of 400 FPS preinstalled and the link has a video from evike where it shows the gearbox inside for those who are not familiar with the new gun:

https://www.evike.com/products/13727/

For internals I bought:
Prometheus 6.03 EG tight bore inner barrel - length 260mm. (i know it's originally a 255mm barrel, I have a tracer going on it)
Madbull Shark Blue 60 degree Bucking
Modified Baton Ryusoku Hard Bucking

I bought these two buckings just to have and was recommended to use the Modified over the shark, do you guys agree?

Anyways let's get the meat of the question i'm looking to be answered.

Like all, I want my gun to be shooting further, faster, laser accurate, and further more be reliable where I don't have to be replacing internal parts due to wear and tear, what should I upgrade next if anything?

I know that wear and tear would eventually happen depending how much use and bbs are shot, so before hammering me on that, please note that I am stating internal upgrades suggestions that will improve my gun and have me shoot XXXXXXX amount of shots without having to change parts sooner because the parts themselves cause damage to the shell of the gearbox or other parts. All this information, I got just from reading so I am trying to educate myself in internal upgrades.

I also want to know what upgrades on this AEG are prone to getting damaged after use? That way I can send the gun to a professional to take a look at or do it myself to make sure that a specific internal is needing to be replaced soon.

Furthermore, I was told because my intentions were also to shoot faster, the gears that were recommended for an upgrade to do were the 16:1 gears. If not mistaken, they have 18:1 gears on them now by default.

I researched and found out the siegetek is one of the best gears to buy, but with a price. I messaged siegetek and they stated they don't have a 16:1 but have other platforms and would need a V2/V3 gears for this modification with proper shimming, which I have never done ever before. On top of that, the one I assume that's closest to the 16:01 ratio is their V2/V3 14.09:1.

Money isn't the issue for the initial buy for internal parts. I just want to also avoid having to replace parts after 10k-30k shots and play and shoot for x(x) amount of years before having then to replace damaged parts. If possible, not damaging the gun ever with any upgrade parts would be ideal, haha, if that is possible.

My fields limits is 400 fps on .20 bbs 1.5J and 360 FPS .25 bbs 1.51J. Because the upgrades, I may improve my fps/joule on this gun, is there any spring alternative that will keep me at 400 on the dot with these current upgrades or with the suggested gear upgrade? <- **Only if you suggest the gear upgrade. If not then, a great brand spring for 400 fps with that joule output or slightly under like 390. Heard PDI and Prometheus as top springs, and then slightly few suggest guarder. Not a fan of cutting the coil down. I'll be using .25 for my CQB. On another field I'll use .28 and their requirement is only 400 fps. Have not heard anything of ROF requirements. This gun shoots at 20-21 bbs a second apparently.

Thank you again and looking forward to an informative replies with no bashing on either me or anyone else's replies.
 

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Because this gun is new and people are still getting there hands on them, I don't know if the upgrades suggested by evike are appropriate.
I would ignore ALL advice from Evike on upgrades. They would sell you a stock barrel under their brand just for no reason other than to "make" money on the uninformed.

For internals I bought:
Prometheus 6.03 EG tight bore inner barrel - length 260mm. (i know it's originally a 255mm barrel, I have a tracer going on it)
Madbull Shark Blue 60 degree Bucking
Modified Baton Ryusoku Hard Bucking

I bought these two buckings just to have and was recommended to use the Modified over the shark, do you guys agree?
Who made those recommendations? Honestly 16 years out of date concerning Madbull Blue and 8 years out of date for Modify Baton Ryusoku. There are simpler more effective options ina Maple Leaf Packing/Rubber/Bucking and nub.

If the hop-up unit is anything like other Krytacs, the nub is going to be an issue. They use a captured nub.

Anyways let's get the meat of the question i'm looking to be answered.

Like all, I want my gun to be shooting further, faster, laser accurate, and further more be reliable where I don't have to be replacing internal parts due to wear and tear, what should I upgrade next if anything?
Upgrade...absolutely NOTHING. We and you don't know what is going inside this AEG. Why replace internal parts sight unseen with stock parts "rebranded" as an "aftermarket" part that may actually downgrade the durability of your AEG?

Quite honestly, You need to use your tool before you consider "any" changes. And by use, I mean 10 plus game days of use.

Changing your AEG even before you have a base line on how it performs makes no sense and is a waste of money.

If you want out of the box accuracy, use heavy weight good medium polish bbs and a good battery (Do NOT buy Tenergy or Titan packs). This will give you a base line on your AEG's performance.

AEG's from good makers last about 120K rounds in "stock" form before issues "may" arise.

If you use it for those 10 days of play and you burn one bag of .25's each day...your only at 25K rounds of use...that is a 3/4 of a year's worth of play.
 

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A Prommy barrel is hardly a upgrade from a stock krytac barrel. A Lambda/PDI/EDGI Steel is really the only barrels people should be looking at, anything else and your barley improving if not downgrading.

But as Guge said, use it before touching it internally. So many people change parts to worse components it’s not even funny. Literally know someone who changed a stock vfc barrel to a “Matrix TBB” which is probably twice as worse as a stock vfc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would ignore ALL advice from Evike on upgrades. They would sell you a stock barrel under their brand just for no reason other than to "make" money on the uninformed.

Who made those recommendations? Honestly 16 years out of date concerning Madbull Blue and 8 years out of date for Modify Baton Ryusoku. There are simpler more effective options ina Maple Leaf Packing/Rubber/Bucking and nub.

If the hop-up unit is anything like other Krytacs, the nub is going to be an issue. They use a captured nub.

Upgrade...absolutely NOTHING. We and you don't know what is going inside this AEG. Why replace internal parts sight unseen with stock parts "rebranded" as an "aftermarket" part that may actually downgrade the durability of your AEG?

Quite honestly, You need to use your tool before you consider "any" changes. And by use, I mean 10 plus game days of use.

Changing your AEG even before you have a base line on how it performs makes no sense and is a waste of money.

If you want out of the box accuracy, use heavy weight good medium polish bbs and a good battery (Do NOT buy Tenergy or Titan packs). This will give you a base line on your AEG's performance.

AEG's from good makers last about 120K rounds in "stock" form before issues "may" arise.

If you use it for those 10 days of play and you burn one bag of .25's each day...your only at 25K rounds of use...that is a 3/4 of a year's worth of play.
Apologies if don't use, /quote as not familiar with forums haha.

Hence why I came here for a second opinion. I figured that was the case.

I was looking at posts and threads from other people about AEG upgrades and saw that those are the recommended buckings and nubs. These comments I captured were the years 2018-2021 as I wanted the up to date advice that people have given to new internal user builders. So it was originally my search of the mad blue and modified, but was later recommended by evike. Again, I confirmed via latest post and threads myself. I always deny and confirm from techs i'm general as my local store broke my airsoft before having the joy to ever play airsoft when younger. So I am getting back into airsoft and this is my fourth gun.

So only maple leaf 60 degree bucking and nub i'm assuming is your suggested upgrade?

I read that PDI, EdGi and Prometheus were only the top of line choices and a lot of word from Laylax. I have spoken to EdGi before because Novritsch used to sell their tuning kits for the TM L96 for $500 and they were EdGi products. This is was before Novritsch was popular and updated their website.

I bought titan 11.1 3000 mah deans 15C batteries already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A Prommy barrel is hardly a upgrade from a stock krytac barrel. A Lambda/PDI/EDGI Steel is really the only barrels people should be looking at, anything else and your barley improving if not downgrading.

But as Guge said, use it before touching it internally. So many people change parts to worse components it's not even funny. Literally know someone who changed a stock vfc barrel to a "Matrix TBB" which is probably twice as worse as a stock vfc.
I read that PDI, EdGi and Prometheus were only the top of line choices and a lot of word from Laylax. I have spoken to EdGi before because Novritsch used to sell their tuning kits for the TM L96 for $500 and they were EdGi products. This is was before Novritsch was popular and updated their website.

People still recommend Prometheus from what I see, am I wrong here? PDI been here for long time too with Laylax.

As for Edgi, I follow their page and see what they do, but what differences are they from the inner barrels from Laylax? Thought both materials were strong and made better. Haha I do have to use evike here for an example of their demonstration video of showing a stock barre vs a prometheus barrel and it definitely shows improvement of groupings and accuracy. Are groupings and accuracy better on those you listed above?

Love to see supporting evidence in videos. Appreciate again for the response.
 

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This is a brand new aeg that is untested in longer term use. It has a warranty, I would run it stock until that warranty is over then do whatever you feel like.

However your barrel choice is fine, both those packings are pretty good, especially when flat hopped.

I'd recommend 13:1 gears with a neo high torque motor because of less overspin. Paired with a 3 cell lipo you'll get a nice trigger response and rps while still getting 400fps. The gun has a 3034 mosfet which is standard and can handle more than other stock gun mosfets.

The gearbox already has a radiused shell, however proper AOE and a nice Sorbo pad will help with long term wear. A gearbox in my opinion should be checked every 30k arounds. Grease on the piston and tappet rails (and the spots they sit in the gearbox) should be changed every time to prevent metal from being eaten away before 200k rounds, I've seen it enough to know. The compression parts, gears and motor are always replaceable long term, but typically they can go pretty long before much happens, assuming they are shimmed correctly. Any part that is proprietary should be treated carefully.


I've watched all of evikes upgrade videos, the ones by Matt are actually genuinely really impressive even to my OCD standards. You can tell he has been into airsoft for a long time and knows his stuff.
 

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You seem to be viewing your AEG as a Video Game Gun. I.e. where you snaps in parts A22 and get performance upgrade 50.

It doesn't really work that way. Maple Leaf 60 really means nothing by itself. 60 is the Durometer. But depending on the design it may fit on your barrel and it may not.

60 Super Macaron needs a wide Window to fit and thus work. Of which a stock Prommy will not work. Window is too small.

60 MR, will require a even larger window for this packing simulates R-Hop to 90% effectiveness with slip on simplicity and a larger range of adjustment.

I run 50 durometer because this means the packing is "softer" = more grip => less hop-up dial in => more fps consistency. However, it doesn't always play nice on all platforms with their components.

Couple this with a medium polish bb...my AEG's have little to no dial in to get 75 yard range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You seem to be viewing your AEG as a Video Game Gun. I.e. where you snaps in parts A22 and get performance upgrade 50.

It doesn't really work that way. Maple Leaf 60 really means nothing by itself. 60 is the Durometer. But depending on the design it may fit on your barrel and it may not.

60 Super Macaron needs a wide Window to fit and thus work. Of which a stock Prommy will not work. Window is too small.

60 MR, will require a even larger window for this packing simulates R-Hop to 90% effectiveness with slip on simplicity and a larger range of adjustment.

I run 50 durometer because this means the packing is "softer" = more grip => less hop-up dial in => more fps consistency. However, it doesn't always play nice on all platforms with their components.

Couple this with a medium polish bb...my AEG's have little to no dial in to get 75 yard range.
I thought it was funny that you mention a video game. Haha, imagine if it was like that though!!?!

I wasn't planning to RHop yet as I don't even know how, and was planning on just installing the bucking as is and the nub within the hop up arm.

You also say keep it stock till warranty, but after warranty if I see the spread is not as accurate as I want it shooting, is prometheus a good barrel in your opinion Guges? Edgi makes custom rather than PDI. Edgi makes high brass and already ask them about stainless steel and currently not available. PDI makes only 6.03 247mm which is 8mm off the original 255mm. Hence why I also chose prommy 260mm being 5mm off compared to 8mm.

I know quality control issues occurred with prommy, but if I got a good batch, is the prommy not that noticeable as an upgrade? Of course considering after warranty is over and want to increase accuracy with a good bucking along with it too.

Note I ordered and received shipping confirmation on these buckings and prommy, I am sure I can still return if the stats show that this won't improve my gun and make it worse. I of course want to improve my gun
 

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Barrel IMHO is restrictive. I personally run 6.04mm or greater.

A brass barrel is not a bad thing in itself. BB is not supposed to touch the side of the barrel as it travels down it. Krytac barrels are stock 6.05mm (last I heard) and that is a good thing. It allows for flexibility in shooting lumpy bbs to maintain accuracy.

I still reiterate, buy nothing until you field test the AEG over 10 days.

A HT and HS Gear set may not stop over spin...there have been cases with certain HT motors, they still over spin on a HS gear sets. This is mainly due to the spring being so weak (M120).

And yet again, you need an established baseline, without knowing that and throwing in parts...you may think your get a good tune, but the stock tune could have been better.
 

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Yeah as guges mentioned, part compatability in airsoft is literally a nightmare half the time. I do a lot of tech work, I keep about a half dozen brands of each type of part because most the time only 1 or two of the same part will work with parts in a client's gun. Even then most the time I'll have to sand a spot or two to get things to fit right.

It's incredibly frustrating sometimes.
 

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Not sure if you ever played that game in school called "telephone". The teacher whispers something into a students ear and it passes across the room. By the end, it is a different statement than the teacher whispered in the beginning. That is kind of how airsoft products are made. Think of Tokyo Marui being the teacher.
 

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I have a krytac i was going to put a maple leaf super macaroon bucking and nub in. What are the fitting issues for a stock krytac barrel? Also what would be a good bucking nub combo that shouldnt need modification to fit?
 

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Barrel window maybe to small.
Nub arm is a capture type.

Krytac Nub and traditional packing.

Drinkware Office supplies Orange Adhesive Cylinder


You can only use legacy split mound packing designs on the Krytac (that is what they use except for captured nub) without "modifications".
 
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