UrbanProdigy's First DMR Build

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by Urbanprodigy, Aug 29, 2012.

  1. Urbanprodigy

    Urbanprodigy New Member

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    Ok do I just got a DBoys 416 in the mail (yes they made one and it was discontinued I believe). I am planning on making it into a DMR because since I've always wanted to make one but never had an extra gun to use while I am building it I never could start.

    So for external parts, I am happy with what I have now and will probably replace it in the future buy not now.

    Internally, I have a pretty good hop unit and bucking but will probably replace it later. I am also going to do R-hop. I have a madbull 6.03 363mm I believe. Now I have heard that a DBoys gearbox shell is strong so is this true?

    Gearbox; So with the Shell I have, or you guys reccomend, I was thinking I'll just buy stock JG gears, 16 AWG wiring, a metal spring guide, a 130 spring, and aoe shim and compression mods. For everything else I don't know what to get, Airnozzel, cylinder and cylinder head, tappet plate, and MOSFET. So any reccomendations on them would help.

    Also I probably won't do deans right away but when I replace the hop unit and that stuff I will probably do that.

    My price limit right now is about $150 but it really is much higher (probably $300) but that will be in a month or two. So which parts are most important and would not destroy the others for under $150 right away? Then I'll buy the rest later.

    Sorry if that was confusing, I'll try to answer any questions you guys have and thanks for any help in advance.

    Edit: Almost forgot a JG Blue motor
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2012
  2. Mystery43_4

    Mystery43_4 New Member

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    Santa Barbara
    I'll try and help you out before the melatonin kicks in.

    By my definition, this isn't a "DMR", but more so a field rifle.

    Stock XYT gears are strong enough for your needs.

    The stock shell is durable enough to handle this build with ease.

    Run Sorbo, and radius your Cylinder Windows.

    A MOSFET, deans, and better wiring are always a good starting point.

    The stock motor has a torquey armature, throw it in a Neo can and you'll have tons of torque. If you don't want to do that, then just spring for a Chinese Neo motor. Or you can go with a Lonex for about $20 more. They're better, and made in Taiwan, not China ;)

    Everybody else can fill in, it's about that time for me.
     

  3. Batman

    Batman New Member

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    Wichita
    There a lot of Diy mods you can do like: polish cylinder (most DMR builds do this) radius cylinder window, although I forget what that does, Teflon bucking and cylinder head of course, etc. Also what battery do you plan on using? And what are your goals for this build?
     
  4. Urbanprodigy

    Urbanprodigy New Member

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    Ok yeah I don't know much about DIY, but I feel it shouldn't be to difficult so I'm willing to try (am I right?). I was thinking Lonex but wasn't really sure and I'm hoping for 300 to 350 foot range, but I don't knowing that is kind of unrealistic for my inexperience. Also I'd like to keep it under 450 FPS since that is my fields limit, although they do not really chrono all that much
     
  5. Thestig

    Thestig Some say... Supporting Member

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    Colorado Springs and Southern California
    I would use a lonex mid or torque motor. A DE mofset should work, unless you want burst function. Clandestine just got his shipment of parts too, you could probably get everything you need for sub $150.
     
  6. Urbanprodigy

    Urbanprodigy New Member

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    Ok, so this is what I've come up with

    http://clandestineairsoft.com/index.php?main_page=shopping_cart

    If the link doesn't work then I'll post the parts individually later, but now I'm tired. The wiring, motor, piston, and something else was sold out, but I don't know exactly of each I should get. The parts I do have may not all be what I need but I just went by the descriptions in each section and picked what sounded good if it was in stock. Also are there any parts I'm missing that I didn't mention or have in the cart?
     
  7. Thestig

    Thestig Some say... Supporting Member

    1,263
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    Colorado Springs and Southern California
    Link didn't work. Also, his shipments come in in the next week as well.
     
  8. commando5184

    commando5184 New Member

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    1HR north of philly
  9. Urbanprodigy

    Urbanprodigy New Member

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  10. deathmechanic

    deathmechanic Active Member

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    Davis
    You can't link your shopping cart...... You will have to list it out.
     
  11. Urbanprodigy

    Urbanprodigy New Member

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  12. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    You don't really have to replace the cylinder unless you're changing the barrel length. The stock trigger switch will be good enough when combined with a mosfet. Just fine tune it, adjust the trigger contacts for optimal contact and such. Other than that it looks like a very good list. The GB will be very reliable and have very good performance with those parts if tuned properly.
     
  13. Urbanprodigy

    Urbanprodigy New Member

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    Alright thanks for the info. So should I basically just keep the trigger assembly how it is?
     
  14. Urbanprodigy

    Urbanprodigy New Member

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    since i want to try to get as much as i can at once, is this airnozzle

    http://clandestineairsoft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25

    and this motor

    http://clandestineairsoft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_6_10&products_id=36

    almost or just as good

    Edit: Also i'm going to do this piston also. It is one tooth different and supposedly i dont need to do AOE with it. Also will i still need sorbo with this?

    lastly can i do 14 awg wiring instead of 16? really want to get this done
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2012
  15. Archer627

    Archer627 New Member

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    Figgington
    Don't get an aluminum air nozzle. Puts too much weight on the Tappet.
     
  16. Urbanprodigy

    Urbanprodigy New Member

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    Last edited: Aug 30, 2012
  17. Archer627

    Archer627 New Member

    6,174
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    Figgington
    Get a 15T instead. The rack on those pistons(the 14T) will cave in every once and a while.
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2012
  18. Star_folder

    Star_folder New Member

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    Lexington
    The 15 tooth is stronger than the 14 tooth. And unless it's broken, you probably don't need to replace the tappet plate either.
     
  19. Urbanprodigy

    Urbanprodigy New Member

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    I'd rather replace it. The DBoys looked really cheap and flimsy
     
  20. Urbanprodigy

    Urbanprodigy New Member

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    Update: I had no time because my sister needed the computer so I don't know if you can all read this but here is my updated list



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