You definitely want to change the motor. 12:1 gears don't have much torque. 22TPA motor and M120 is what I use on a build like that. Short stroke does not increase trigger response, not noticeably anyway. It lowers the FPS by around 15FPS per tooth removed, approximately. You want to use a heavier spring like a M120 when using 12:1 gears to prevent PME, but that will raise your FPS, so you short stroke your gears to bring back down the FPS.
Want to increase the rate of fire...
I have a Lancer Tactical Interceptor with terrible trigger response, this is what I am planning to do.
Replace stock gears with 12:1 gears.
Replace contacts with mosfet.
Rewire from Tamiya to Deans.
Use an 11.1 v Lipo
I don't want to replace the motor. Is there any other ways to increase the trigger response besides shortstroking?
Replace stock gears with 12:1 gears.
Replace contacts with mosfet.
Rewire from Tamiya to Deans.
Use an 11.1 v Lipo
I don't want to replace the motor. Is there any other ways to increase the trigger response besides shortstroking?
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Replacing the motor on an entry level AEG should be one of the first actual upgrades done to it, paired with a good battery.
1. Stock motor will struggle on 12:1 gears, an M120 on 18.72:1 'feels' like an M178 on 12.65:1
2. You can replace trigger switch assembly with an ETU, I have seen Gate Titan fit with minor modification in LT v2 (gen 1 and 2) shells
3. Recommended
4. This is fine, but keep in mind that you need a good 3s lipo for it to make a difference
This is an LT gen 2 that I worked on with pretty much exactly what @Jimps recommended cycling on 2s lipo
1. Stock motor will struggle on 12:1 gears, an M120 on 18.72:1 'feels' like an M178 on 12.65:1
2. You can replace trigger switch assembly with an ETU, I have seen Gate Titan fit with minor modification in LT v2 (gen 1 and 2) shells
3. Recommended
4. This is fine, but keep in mind that you need a good 3s lipo for it to make a difference
Your criteria has minimal affect on improved trigger time. These item below is not a factor in limiting nor improving trigger time.
Replace stock gears with 12:1 gears. - No improvement without support from a good New motor.
Replace contacts with mosfet. - Minimal improvement, You still need the contact to complete the circuit, ETU is in the same category...
Rewire from Tamiya to Deans. - Minimal improvement
Use an 11.1 v Lipo - Depends...some 3S LIPOS are pretty bad and will hamper desired improved trigger response.
(Snip) Is there any other ways to increase the trigger response besides shortstroking? - This isn't a method for improving trigger response either.
And to add to Aotsukiso's video.
This is video of a G&P test AEG back in 2014. Tienly 45K motor in a 18:1 Stock AEG with a 2S Battery M120 Class spring.
Go to 2:00 mark. Note SA test shots and then ROF...on a 2S battery...not 3S.
By switching to a motor of this capability and then run a good 3S...your TR would be hard to beat.
Replace stock gears with 12:1 gears. - No improvement without support from a good New motor.
Replace contacts with mosfet. - Minimal improvement, You still need the contact to complete the circuit, ETU is in the same category...
Rewire from Tamiya to Deans. - Minimal improvement
Use an 11.1 v Lipo - Depends...some 3S LIPOS are pretty bad and will hamper desired improved trigger response.
(Snip) Is there any other ways to increase the trigger response besides shortstroking? - This isn't a method for improving trigger response either.
And to add to Aotsukiso's video.
This is video of a G&P test AEG back in 2014. Tienly 45K motor in a 18:1 Stock AEG with a 2S Battery M120 Class spring.
Go to 2:00 mark. Note SA test shots and then ROF...on a 2S battery...not 3S.
By switching to a motor of this capability and then run a good 3S...your TR would be hard to beat.
Any example of the trigger response you're looking to get?
I've done rebuilds on two LT-25 Gen 2 Interceptors.
The motor is cheez whiz. Replacement is almost a must.
The nylon bushings need replacement.
The cylinder and piston head probably need replacement.
I would keep the stock gears unless you feel like spending money, and go with a 35K motor--Tienly 35K; ASG Boost 30K (actually 35K); SHS High Torque. In that order of niceness.
For budget, go Arcturus 28K from Guges (if he has any left). It'll be a tad bit slower, but still very good, and cheaper.
Go with 8mm metal bushings if yours does indeed have nylon like both of mine did. Almost any set will work. FLT is by far the nicest, but at a high price tag. $4 SHS ones will work.
The piston is actually okay enough if you can get the piston head off without ruining the piston. Lighten it with a drill, Dremel, or drill press using Swiss cheesing.
I suggest the Lonex POM piston head, or the Rocket/SHS POM piston head. The Angel Custom Seraph is also an appropriate replacement.
Any ordinary steel or brass cylinder should work fine. For the LT-25's stock barrel length of 363mm, you probably want to go with a full or type zero non-ported cylinder.
Test air seal and use teflon tape if need-be on the cylinder head.
The nozzle is fine.
And then you need to shim, lube, and do all the normal stuff.
I've done rebuilds on two LT-25 Gen 2 Interceptors.
The motor is cheez whiz. Replacement is almost a must.
The nylon bushings need replacement.
The cylinder and piston head probably need replacement.
I would keep the stock gears unless you feel like spending money, and go with a 35K motor--Tienly 35K; ASG Boost 30K (actually 35K); SHS High Torque. In that order of niceness.
For budget, go Arcturus 28K from Guges (if he has any left). It'll be a tad bit slower, but still very good, and cheaper.
Go with 8mm metal bushings if yours does indeed have nylon like both of mine did. Almost any set will work. FLT is by far the nicest, but at a high price tag. $4 SHS ones will work.
The piston is actually okay enough if you can get the piston head off without ruining the piston. Lighten it with a drill, Dremel, or drill press using Swiss cheesing.
I suggest the Lonex POM piston head, or the Rocket/SHS POM piston head. The Angel Custom Seraph is also an appropriate replacement.
Any ordinary steel or brass cylinder should work fine. For the LT-25's stock barrel length of 363mm, you probably want to go with a full or type zero non-ported cylinder.
Test air seal and use teflon tape if need-be on the cylinder head.
The nozzle is fine.
And then you need to shim, lube, and do all the normal stuff.
So what I have right now in there is an SHS double O-ring Cylinder Head, which with the stock Lancer piston combined with a MaddMaxx Piston head creates a PERFECT air seal. I love the Piston head, it works well on all build I've had it in...Any example of the trigger response you're looking to get?...
SHS 12:1 gears not shortstroked being spun by an ASG 22 tpa motor with very strong magnets. It doesn't have any labels indicating it's model, but it's strong. Also a full volume cylinder.
Strong is entirely subjective...details are better, sadly no label on yours.
A R52 Motor vs an R46 motor are both strong, but those 6 points in the right "chassis" would offer a 2 fold improvement over the R52 that is used incorrectly in another motor.
In another example, it's like matching a 1991 GM V8 against a 1991 Honda I4. The Honda-4 has 5 more BHP than the GM 8, so note the details for your future endeavors.
A R52 Motor vs an R46 motor are both strong, but those 6 points in the right "chassis" would offer a 2 fold improvement over the R52 that is used incorrectly in another motor.
In another example, it's like matching a 1991 GM V8 against a 1991 Honda I4. The Honda-4 has 5 more BHP than the GM 8, so note the details for your future endeavors.
Are you able to share a video of current trig response? That setup should provide a very, very snappy trigger if built properly.
It's 22 tpa.Strong is entirely subjective...details are better, sadly no label on yours.
A R52 Motor vs an R46 motor are both strong, but those 6 points in the right "chassis" would offer a 2 fold improvement over the R52 that is used incorrectly in another motor.
In another example, it's like matching a 1991 GM V8 against a 1991 Honda I4. The Honda-4 has 5 more BHP than the GM 8, so note the details for your future endeavors.
I'll try to upload a video. Right now it's using a Nimh 9.6v tamiya. That's Probably why. Is it clear in the top that I have yet to do the things mentioned in the first post?Are you able to share a video of current trig response? That setup should provide a very, very snappy trigger if built properly.
Going from a 9.6v nimh to an 11.1v lipo is gonna be night and day.
22TPA alone means really nothing other than it's a guideline.
Size of wire, brush type, magnet type and manufacturing process, plus how it's put together tells you the capability of a motor.
Again back to a car reference. That vehicle has a 2.5T Motor...doesn't say much does it other than displacement is 2.5L and it has a Turbo.
Size of wire, brush type, magnet type and manufacturing process, plus how it's put together tells you the capability of a motor.
Again back to a car reference. That vehicle has a 2.5T Motor...doesn't say much does it other than displacement is 2.5L and it has a Turbo.
It should be decent if it is an ASG, but how do you know it's and ASG? No big sticker? The thick silver colored ASG brushes can be an identifier.
Yea that is an ASG. The stickers they use are pretty thick and need to be removed to fit in some grips. Pretty common to see them with the sticker removed.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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