Featured What kind of flash hider for AK-47

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by Sobiiapplesauce, Apr 6, 2021.

  1. Sobiiapplesauce

    Sobiiapplesauce New Member

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    PHELAN
    Hi all
    I was thinking of buying a new flash hider for my CM028
    Would this work? https://www.evike.com/products/54187/

    how do I find out if a flash hider will work for my CM028 before buying?

    Thanks for all your information!
     
  2. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    You want an orange one?

    CM028 has 14mm- threading....Anything with 14mm- will work,

    You could also get the slant AK hider (historically accurate for the gun) and paint it orange too.

    [​IMG]
     

  3. richman992

    richman992 Well-Known Member

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    Anything 14mm counter clockwise will work. I actually have a spare Zenitco dtk-2 flash hider somewhere I’d consider selling if you wanted to go that route. But it isn’t orange.
     
  4. Sobiiapplesauce

    Sobiiapplesauce New Member

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    PHELAN
    No I'm gonna paint it black lol I just like the orange ones because they're plastic. Less weight.
    Thanks for the information!
     
  5. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    You do realize the weight is pretty negligible.

    Orange hider ~20 grams. Slant hider ~32 grams

    28 grams to an ounce.
     
  6. Sobiiapplesauce

    Sobiiapplesauce New Member

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    PHELAN
    you're probably right. But it's a weird thing about me.
    I worry about every little piece and how much they add up. Dust cover, trigger selector, the iron sight thing, the charging handle, etc. If I can notice it, It bothers me.
    I was thinking of making another thread to ask another question but maybe you can answer since you know a lot about airsoft.

    Have you ever painted a gun? I was looking for recommendations of types of paint to use after I sand down my handguard.
     
  7. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Me...no...never, absolutely wrecks the resell value and if you don't prep it correctly...it looks terrible.
     
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  8. Dead_Christmas

    Dead_Christmas Active Member

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    Zimmerman
    If you're using the CM028, then the thread protector device (did nothing other than protect the barrel's threads) is actually accurate. The slant brake was used later for the AKM.

    [​IMG]

    In fact, real ones like this will work. Same threading.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2021
    richman992 likes this.
  9. Sobiiapplesauce

    Sobiiapplesauce New Member

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    PHELAN
    By prep you just mean sand it and get a good base coat right?
    You just put the fear of god in me.

    Yeah thanks, idunno what I'm gonna do. Good to know I know the threading now thou.
     
  10. Dead_Christmas

    Dead_Christmas Active Member

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    Zimmerman
    I just grabbed the first link that came up. You could probably find one for cheaper if you look around.
     
  11. richman992

    richman992 Well-Known Member

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    Painting is nowhere near as hard as folks make it out to be. The biggest thing to remember though is that 90% of painting is the prep work. I don’t typically paint my guns, but I will paint accessories, flash hiders, and tons of non Airsoft stuff. I’m no expert, but this is what I do for a cheap, quality spray job:

    1) Remove anything you don’t want painted, or tape it off if you can’t remove it. Sand with a relatively fine paper, you don’t want a ton of deep scratches because you used 80 grit. I typically use 180 and 220 grit. If you are able to strip the existing paint before sanding, do it, but still lightly sand afterward.

    2) Clean the entire project piece thoroughly. I prefer to use alcohol as it evaporates and doesn’t leave any soapy or greasy residue.

    3) I like to do 2-3 light coats of rustoleum self etching primer. Let it dry between coats. For the best finish, hold the can about 8-12 inches from the piece and sweep over it in long, quick strokes. You don’t want to hold the nozzle down and coat it completely in the first coat, but rather lay a dusting, then another, then another until a nice smooth finish is created. You do not want to start or stop your stroke on the piece, it will cause an uneven finish. I also tend to spray each coat from slightly different angles to get in hard to reach areas.

    4) Do the same but with at least 3 light coats of color (I do 5), and then once again with 2-3 coats of either gloss or matte clear coat, depending on your desired look.

    Practice on a cheap springer or a nerf gun first. If you are patient, and don’t put heavy, runny coats of paint on, you will be very happy with the results.
     
  12. Dead_Christmas

    Dead_Christmas Active Member

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    The hardest part is imitating parkerizing other than black. The surface texture is very difficult to get correctly, as scratches will always look different on paint than a parkerized surface, which appear to have the scratch marks "inside" the finish.

    I have yet to find a paint that can match other than black, but I have faith that it's out there.

    Good luck.
     
  13. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    And being that this is your only AEG. Do you have the resources to do the proper paint a=nd prep...or just take you AEG and go play!
     
  14. Ben3721

    Ben3721 Active Member

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    When I think of a light weight aeg, I think of a plastic body m4 that is like 5 pounds.

    I don't think I've every seen a decent lightweight ak. Even the shorty ones are like a brick.
     
  15. Guges Mk3

    Guges Mk3 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    The Sub-130 units are light weight...

    CM028


    Specifications:
    Length: 845mm
    Weight: 2750g

    That's about 5# and they have weights inside those low budget models.
     
  16. Dead_Christmas

    Dead_Christmas Active Member

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    I can vouch for the plastic-body AK's being fairly heavy. I've got a JG 0512MG and it weighs like a cinder block.
     
  17. Capt_Destro

    Capt_Destro New Member

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    If the threads are 14mm LH, I'm positive real steel flash hiders will work. That way you also get the parkerizing.

    Tapco went out of business so they can be found rather cheap/on clearance if you want a bird cage or RPK type. Slant flash hiders are pretty much given away/replaced. I might actually have one laying around.

    Best of all if you do paint it orange, the parkerizing is an excellent undercoat.

    As far as weight I'd say a steel slant flash hider is only 2 oz at most. Probably one of the lightest ones out there.
     
  18. Gikote

    Gikote New Member

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    Go for the slant flash hider. Put an o-ring behind it so you can orient it correctly. It will look great.
     
  19. Capt_Destro

    Capt_Destro New Member

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    I know it looks weird side ways like that, but its actually done like that on the real thing for muzzle rise reasons. Decreases both vertical and horizontal recoil. If your AK is missing a detent on the front sight/gas block. A Jam nut can also be used to index it imo.

    Depends on how accurate you want your AK to look honestly

    I need more posts to post a link but the firearm blog has an excellent article.

    "Why is the AKM’s Muzzle Brake Canted?"
     

    Attached Files:

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  20. Dead_Christmas

    Dead_Christmas Active Member

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    I think this slant brake on a 47 looks a bit silly unless he's trying to make an AK-47 into an AKM. Just my unsolicited two-cents.