What makes a gun lipo ready/what part do I need??

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by kfrigo12, Jul 5, 2015.

  1. kfrigo12

    kfrigo12 New Member

    New Haven
    What going on everyone!
    I have a G&G GR16 that I wish to make lipo ready, the only internal work that I've had done to it is a new barrel and a new hopup (I know those have nothing to do with the lipo readiness), but I wanna know what I can do/what parts I need to make it lipo ready. (gears, motor, piston, piston head, etc...)

    Thanks guy!
  2. NeoAugAU-3G

    NeoAugAU-3G Active Member

    Las Vegas
    shimming, mosfet, low resistance wire, correct aoe. This is bare minimum in my opinion. The idea is to make the aeg as energy efficient as possible, and use a mosfet to bypass most of that power away from the trigger contacts so they dont fry too fast.

  3. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

    Connect a moderate output 7.4V li-po to your AEG, it's now "li-po ready". Seriously, "li-po ready" is a really stupid expression that makes no sense. You can do just as much damage with a ni-mh battery, it's not the battery chemistry that kills your gearbox, it's running it at a higher ROF than it was built for that kills it. If you're just going with a 7.4V li-po battery, you don't really need to do anything, the ROF should change much and a stock AEG usually has a low power consumption, so the trigger contacts will be fine. It's when you want to go with a high voltage battery, like an 11.1V li-po or 12V ni-mh with a high current output that you need to do all the mods mentioned above.

    I know it would be simpler and probably less confusing for you to just give the standard "gearbox tune-up and mosfet" reply, but then you wouldn't get the insight I just provided you with. There are so many misconceptions and myths surrounding batteries in the airsoft community, it frustrates me. I might have a better understanding of batteries and such than the average airsofter, but it's not that complicated, at least I didn't think it was.
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2015
  4. AirsoftRyan778

    AirsoftRyan778 Active Member

    ^he got it, lipo ready is just a sales tactic, a $20 crossman is lipo ready technically
  5. Jerichow

    Jerichow Member

    It depends *ENTIRELY* on the LiPo you want to use, and how you want to use it. For example:

    My MP7 AEP uses this guy without a mosfet and runs with zero problems. Shoots ~240fps with bone stock parts and has instant trigger response. Eventually I'll have to clean the trigger contacts, but the wear on it will not be so bad as if I was running a 400fps AEG on an 11.1v Lipo.

    And speaking of which, I'm rebuilding my friend's Matrix M4 to do just that, and he will be using this one to power it. He's obviously going to need a mosfet because the 11.1v will arch the trigger contacts, and the amp draw only adds to that.

    So if you're running a fairly stock performing AEG, no major upgrades like high speed gears or a turbo/high speed motor and an M120, and you're using something like a 7.4v Lipo, it should actually be just a drop in battery. You should have zero negative impacts on your AEG running a 7.4v LiPo, but an 11.1v on the other hand? NeoAug pretty much covered it, shim it bevel to pinion, rewire with good wire(I use Turnigy's RC wire and it works perfectly fine) add a dedicated mosfet like A NukeFet, and correct your AoE with a sorbo pad so you don't insta-gib your piston's pickup tooth and you'll be fine.
  6. AirsoftRyan778

    AirsoftRyan778 Active Member

    ^ the reason you're not having problems is not because of the low fps, but because of the lower amp draw. The stronger the spring, the more amps the motor will take, meaning more wear on the contacts