Zardichar's Gun Build Thread

Discussion in 'Gun Building, Modifications & Repairs' started by Zardichar, Jan 24, 2013.

  1. Zardichar

    Zardichar New Member Supporting Member

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    Hey guys,
    A lot of you probably don't know me; I am just starting to get into teching, and to do this, I bought a base gun for cheap on ebay: the DBoys M4 Full Metal AEG.

    I'll probably use this thread as a blog; showing my progress in the build and asking questions.

    Onto to gun:
    DBoys M4 AEG, internally, came with:
    Angel Custom 6.01 TB Barrel (I plan to replace this)
    Lonex Hop up
    Lonex soft bucking (came ripped)
    Lonex A2
    Lonex trigger contacts (idk why previous owner replaced them, the old ones were fine)
    Core Air Nozzle
    SHS 13:1 gears
    Everything else stock

    Came with broken safety and no semi.

    I don't really understand the previous owner's upgrading mentality, he went with some very good parts, and some very bad and useless parts.
    He didn't really tune the gun much, except for AoE. He tried to shim, but that didn't go so well for him.

    As of right now, I have gotten the safety and semi working (new safety lever and new cut off lever) and have done the following to the gun:
    16awg rewire with deans
    diy mosfet
    shimmed correctly
    regreased
    teflon tape cylinder head
    stabilize barrel w/ teflon tape
    swiss cheesed piston
    replaced piston head o ring
    extended barrel window and built it up (to accept r hop)
    short stroked 3 teeth off gear

    Goals:
    FPS less than or equal to 350
    35 rps
    200 ft effective range

    Parts added:
    R-hop and M-nub (haven't been tested yet; lots of tuning to do)
    shs cut off lever
    new safety lever
    shs 7mm steel bearings (super glued in)
    sector clip
    m100 spring (might have to change this to prevent PME)
    7.4v 25c 2200mah lipo
    11.1v 45c 3300mah lipo

    To do soon: (will do within a couple days)
    mill gearbox to fit wiring
    short stroke piston (what material to use to space metal?)
    m120 spring?
    Lonex metal spring guide
    Lonex hard bucking
    hop up tuning and testing

    To do later:
    Lonex red piston head
    Lonex POM piston head
    Madbull 6.03mm TBB

    Is there anything else I should do?
    Will I meet my goals?
    Is PME a problem with the M100 spring?
    What are some things I should get later?
    Can Mag midcaps keep up with the rps?

    Externals:
    I have no clue about externals. Right now I just have an NC Star tube type 1x red dot sight. The gun is two toned tan and black, but I don't really like the way it looks, so I might repaint it. Suggestions?

    I will post pictures later when I get the gun back together.
    Maybe I'll make a video breakdown of my set up when its done.

    Well, thanks guys for reading the whole post. If you could answer some of the questions, than thanks in advanced!

    EDIT:
    What my gun looks like currently:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  2. Ehudakineyah

    Ehudakineyah New Member

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    Mililani
    Wow lol :) good buy

    I would just keep the motor ;) haha Jk Jk

    Only thing ill change is the inner barrel on your list. Go for a bigger bore :)
    You can squeeze out a little more range with a 6.05mm and greater. (Since you're not trying to achieve a high fps)
     

  3. Zardichar

    Zardichar New Member Supporting Member

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    Thanks! So many smiles :)
    What brand makes good 6.05mm barrels?
     
  4. NSW-DoubleTap

    NSW-DoubleTap New Member

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    I don't think the M100 springs will cause PE.. At least not for me and I'm running a Systema 1J spring ( didn't want to deal with the variety of FPS limits at my local fields) I shoot a constant 310 FPS. So far, only 1 tooth is half worn out ( AOE adjusted/corrected) but that was from when I did a bad shimming job/motor height/alignment. Have you checked the previous owner's AOE corrections?
     
  5. Zardichar

    Zardichar New Member Supporting Member

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    I'll try it with the m100.
    The previous owner did a pretty good job with the AoE: he used a 3/16 sorbo i think.
     
  6. NSW-DoubleTap

    NSW-DoubleTap New Member

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    I see that's great. Btw, when it comes to the gears and everything. You might as well just do all the mods/upgrades in 1 go. So that'll be shims, aoe, installing gears, new piston and head, spring etc. This is because if you do everything one by one, you cause unneccessary wear on parts that should have taken longer to wear down.
     
  7. Zardichar

    Zardichar New Member Supporting Member

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    Thanks, I am doing that.
    My gearbox is open right now waiting for parts.

    Should I get a metal spring guide for the m120 or the m100?
     
  8. Ehudakineyah

    Ehudakineyah New Member

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    The DBoy should have came with a stock metal spring guide lol

    If not, grab one. Less stress about it breaking lol
     
  9. Archer627

    Archer627 New Member

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    Figgington
    The older gens came with plastic ones.
     
  10. Zardichar

    Zardichar New Member Supporting Member

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    Is the Lonex one good?
    It seems a bit expensive.
     
  11. Archer627

    Archer627 New Member

    6,174
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    Figgington
    Any steel spring guide with bearings will work. Just don't get the element ones. They have problems. Lol.
     
  12. Zardichar

    Zardichar New Member Supporting Member

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    Lonex then.
    How do you guys fit the extra wires for a mosfet in the gearbox rearwired?
    I am about to mill out wire guides on the opposite side of the gearbox to fit them.
     
  13. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

    4,722
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    If he runs an M100 spring with the A2, 13:1 gears and an 11,1v he will most likely shred the piston. The theoretical ROF with an M100 spring in that setup is in the low 40's, waaay above an M100's PE limit.
     
  14. Zardichar

    Zardichar New Member Supporting Member

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    Ok then... No m100...
    what about with a 7.4v?

    Also, my piston short stroking didn't go so well:

    But my wire routing did!:
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Lefse

    Lefse Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Even with a 7,4v you'll be pushing your luck. Use an M120 and short stroke one tooth at a time until you reach your preferred FPS. I've never bothered with short stroking regular pistons, it's much easier, and will be alot more reliable to use a semi or full metal teeth rack piston. I see you're planning on getting a Lonex red piston, just get one early on, it will be tons more reliable than your current piston. I recommend you swiss it heavily, as they are on the heavy side. I even swissed the front of the Lonex Red in my new M16 build, time will show if it has compromised the structural integrity too much.
     
  16. NSW-DoubleTap

    NSW-DoubleTap New Member

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    Oh haha. Well I run mine on a humble 7.4v lipo cause I don't wanna deal with the drawbacks of the 11.1s
     
  17. Ehudakineyah

    Ehudakineyah New Member

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    Is that solder? Lol

    Wow... What a wire route lol. You can also run the wire on the outside of the gearbox to the rear for a M4/M16

    Edit:
    Thought I had a picture of the wiring.... X_X

    I'll take one later tonight for you when I work on my MP5 again haha ;D
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  18. Zardichar

    Zardichar New Member Supporting Member

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    Solder? Haha no.
    I milled out space for the wires.
    I'll try on the outside.
     
  19. Zardichar

    Zardichar New Member Supporting Member

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  20. NSW-DoubleTap

    NSW-DoubleTap New Member

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    Did you check to see if the trigger contact spring and the trigger spring is installed? Usually you can get by w/o the trigger spring, but the contact spring must be installed to help reset the trigger w/ or w/o the trigger spring.