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Airbrushing, is it worth it?

3.5K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  southerncomforter  
#1 ·
Hey guys, I was wondering about putting a camo on the ol M4 and after playing black ops 2 and BF4 I came across some nice camo's. After trying to replicate them with spray paints, they looked terrible. Would airbrushing be a better method?
 
#3 ·
It definitely will look better BUT airbrushing is an art that takes time to master. I have seen some awesome airbrush work but it is not something anyone can do well ( I cant do it well ). You also could try stencils, or even make stencils by tracing patterns on masking tape. For sure practice on something you can afford to throw away until you master it.
 
#8 ·
Use something that will conform to the curves of the gun for the stencils. At least 1mm thick, and pliable, so it doesn't rip when you're burnishing down the sides to prevent bleed through. For a true "soft edge" camo you won't use stencils at all, but a fine tip (0.30mm is what I use for edging) to blend the colors together. I've been airbrushing for 20+ years doing helmets, models, guns,etc. Yes it looks awesome, and to be honest if you're paying for a job then you shouldn't need stencils at all. Unless you're doing a digital camo which is a pain in the butt to do with ANYTHING but stencils.

Both of these were done using rattle can Krylon Rust-O-Leum in various colors:

Image


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Whatever you decide to do, make SURE it is SEALED to prevent the paint from rubbing off during handling, moisture, etc. I use Krylon Matt Clear to seal my enamel paint jobs. For acrylic paint jobs, I flatten out Future floor polish to seal. Acrylics and enamels react pretty poorly with each other (that's putting in mildly).
 
#9 ·
As one who is just getting his wet with airbrushing (although I airbrush for a different hobby, heck I can't call this a hobby of mine), it is tough to learn and master. You need to become a chemist, an artist, and be good technically. You also need to be a safety nut. If you want to start airbrushing it could be cheap. But don't count on it. You could buy a $25 airbrush, some pressurized gas cans and some paint. But then you need to thin the paint to a certain consistency. But then that doesn't guarantee a good job. A good brand to start out with is called Badger. They have many single action and double action airbrushes for a relatively low price. Do not go and buy a $200 airbrush out of the gate. I guarantee you you'll be utterly confused. The more expensive they are, the more complex they are and the less beginner friendly they are. If you want to try it out, I'd say to buy an inexpensive air compressor. Pressurized gas cans work, not too well, but only for a short time. And the colder they get the less effective they become. Compressors offer continual air flow at a, usually, consistent rate. Only thing you need to add is maybe a moisture trap. Get any water droplets into the airflow to the brush and you just ruined a part of the paint job. It's tricky to master at first but eventually you'll learn the secrets and how to use the airbrush very effectively.

And stencils you can make out of masking tape.
 
#11 ·
Use something that will conform to the curves of the gun for the stencils. At least 1mm thick, and pliable, so it doesn't rip when you're burnishing down the sides to prevent bleed through. For a true "soft edge" camo you won't use stencils at all, but a fine tip (0.30mm is what I use for edging) to blend the colors together. I've been airbrushing for 20+ years doing helmets, models, guns,etc. Yes it looks awesome, and to be honest if you're paying for a job then you shouldn't need stencils at all. Unless you're doing a digital camo which is a pain in the butt to do with ANYTHING but stencils.

Both of these were done using rattle can Krylon Rust-O-Leum in various colors:

Image


Image


Whatever you decide to do, make SURE it is SEALED to prevent the paint from rubbing off during handling, moisture, etc. I use Krylon Matt Clear to seal my enamel paint jobs. For acrylic paint jobs, I flatten out Future floor polish to seal. Acrylics and enamels react pretty poorly with each other (that's putting in mildly).
Nice, was that sponge painting? Problem is here in britain you cant get tan spray paint, or its extremely rare, we dont have the same gun culture
 
#13 ·
Yes, it was done using sea sponges for offsetting colors on both my "Lone Survivor" clone and my Echo 1 MP5A4. For the airbrush you linked, the paint cups are probably a bit too small for painting an airsoft gun. Look for a brush that holds a minimum of 2 oz. of paint, preferably below the airbrush. You're not worried about a 1mm line between two colors, some overspray is only going to enhance the look of the gun.

Something along the lines of a Paasche single action external mix like this one:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Paasche-Arb...p/B00P9XAEV8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1425408631&sr=8-7&keywords=Paasche+airbrush

It's a bit pricey however, and doesn't include a compressor.

As for the tan, I saw your location as Norfolk, Virginia, so I figured a Wal Mart would be close by... :D
 
#14 ·
Ive been airbrushing for years, mostly on plastic models but every now and then I need a fresh color for an airsoft replica. I find that it takes a heck of a lot longer to airbrish than ratttle-can but the end results can be very clean.

One thing to be aware of, if you want to camouflage your gear you will need to collect local flora to use as a medium. Just be careful and remember where you set down your gear. With a good camo job it is very hard to find your gear if you set it down to go lone wolf and what not. I almost lost a nice KJW Sniper rifle that way, left it in the field and it took 20 minutes to find again.
 
#15 ·
Ive been airbrushing for years, mostly on plastic models but every now and then I need a fresh color for an airsoft replica. I find that it takes a heck of a lot longer to airbrish than ratttle-can but the end results can be very clean.
I also learned to airbrush on models. That's my main hobby. So far I've only done a couple of models that I've completely airbrushed. It's been fun at times but many a time it's been a real PITA because I'd mix the paints too thin or I could get to a spot.
 
#17 ·
Yes, it was done using sea sponges for offsetting colors on both my "Lone Survivor" clone and my Echo 1 MP5A4. For the airbrush you linked, the paint cups are probably a bit too small for painting an airsoft gun. Look for a brush that holds a minimum of 2 oz. of paint, preferably below the airbrush. You're not worried about a 1mm line between two colors, some overspray is only going to enhance the look of the gun.

Something along the lines of a Paasche single action external mix like this one:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Paasche-Arb...p/B00P9XAEV8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1425408631&sr=8-7&keywords=Paasche+airbrush

It's a bit pricey however, and doesn't include a compressor.

As for the tan, I saw your location as Norfolk, Virginia, so I figured a Wal Mart would be close by... :D
I noticed that the Paasche has the same fluid capacity (7cc) as the 0.30mm airbrush that comes with my set, anyway nice gun
 
#18 ·
I noticed that the Paasche has the same fluid capacity (7cc) as the 0.30mm airbrush that comes with my set, anyway nice gun
No, that's the side cup. It also comes with 2 1oz cups (read the description a little further down). They are shown in the photo below the nozzle head of the AB.