You really don't need to change the selector plate, the hopup, the anti reversal latch, or the cutoff lever if they're working just fine. Just save some cash there.

Also think about getting a maple leaf hop up bucking and nub combination. However the g&g green is a good bucking, so you cabt go wrong there.

Finally. Are you trying to go for trigger response or rate of fire in this build

 

I forgot to specify, the M4 I'm using for the project is front wired; which I do not like. I have a couple of spare gear boxes so I'm going to set that gearbox aside intact and start from the ground up so I will need the selector plate and anti reversal latch, I wont need a cutoff lever as I will be installing the Gate Titan. Speaking of needing all the parts I didn't specify a cylinder in my parts list; will need one of those as well.
I would say I'm going for ROF on this one, I would like to get as close to that 40 rps mark while still having descent trigger response.

 

Personally I would highly recommend using a DSG instead of SSG. For a 40+ RPS SSG you will need a very fast motor and a fat 11.1. Also there is a fair amount more stress with a full stroke piston vs. an 8t piston at that ROF.

 

I'm not ready for a DSG build...lol.... Maybe I'm setting my sights a bit too high at 40rps. I'm shooting about 18 to 20 rps on my main gun right now. I defiantly want higher than that though.

 

40 is kinda high, but if you wanna go for it, go for it. Just be aware it'll be high stress. Hitting around the 30 mark is alot easier.

 

yea...I think 30 is more reasonable for me. I think I'll try to get there as opposed to 40

 

If you want to go mid-upper 30’s then 13:1 or 12:1 with a 16TPA should get you there.

 

Ok This is what I ordered. I'm going for the SD look. The rest of the parts I have in the parts bin
I found a somewhat broke in Prommy MS100 that's shooting just under the 350fps, right where I need to be. So I'm gonna use that spring. Probably won't use the ball bearings on the piston head as in may increase FPS a bit due thickness, I also want that thing to be light as possible. All will be powered same as my main M4, 7.4 volt 25c/50c burst Turnigy lipo's, I use 2 of them at a time with a parallel connector.
Hope this thing doesn't blow up...lol....still not sure I should have went with the HS motor but I've never used one before and wanted to try, so if it doesn't work out I'll just buy a HT. This is only my second build, the first one turned out awesome....So here's to the second
As always thank you to the guys out there that know way more than me and are always ready to help.

Gate Titan
Lonex Hopup
G&G Green Bucking
Maple Leaf Nub
SHS HS Motor
SHS 14-Tooth High Speed Piston
Prometheus NEO POM Piston Head
Lonex Air Nozzel
SHS 12:1 Gears
Lonex Ball Bearing Spring Guide
Sorbo Pad,Scatterplot,1/8”/Hardness:70
SHS 8mm Steel Bushings
6.02 ZCI, 300mm Inner Barrel
4.5" Outer Barrel
1" Barrel Extension
Surpressor 30x180mm
7" Free Float RIS

 

Looks like a nice list of parts. With a 7.4v you should be getting 28-30 RPS, 11.1v should get you just over 40 RPS. If you use an 11.1 you'll need an M120 spring or higher, some short stroking and possibly to lighten up the piston. Your final RPS may be a bit lower than what the HS5 calculator predicts since there will be a lot of strain on the motor, being low TPA. Personally I'd have gone 10:1 18tpa, 12:1 16tpa, a slow DSG, or a more moderate SSG with a 14.8v.

 

Unless SHS have changed the specs you'll get around 50 RPS with that motor and 13:1 ratio gears with an 11.1V li-po. If it's their balanced 16 TPA motor it'll do 40 ish RPS and there's a high risk of PME with that spring.

I reached 51 RPS with an SHS HS motor (12 TPA I think?), 13:1 ratio gears with 3 teeth short stroke, M130 spring and a high performance 11.V li-po in a build I did several years ago.

 

I think they have 12 turns now.

 

Should give close to 50 RPS with 13:1 ratio gears and an M120/130 spring with a decent 11.1V li-po then.

 

Ok, Parts came in. Got an almost brand new G & G Full Metal GC-16 M4 off Ebay for cheap. Removed the stock outer and hand guards, I put the floating RIS, shorty outer, and suppressor on it to get a feel for what she is gonna look like. The stock gearbox is front wired(yuk) and the thing shot about 390fps stock. I'm just gonna pull that gear box and set it aside un-cracked. I have a spare GB all those new parts are going in. I'm gonna change the grip and possibly stock as well.
I run 7.4 volt 25c/50c burst Turnigy lipo's, 2 of them at a time with a parallel connector. So wherever that will get me in terms of ROF.

Now to set aside the better part of a Saturday to build the the GB cause I'm slow as hell...

 

I see 3 parts you did not need to change...for they will make no difference in your AEG.

 

I am assembling the GB from an empty shell so anything that I did not already have laying around I needed.

 

I would ditch one of the bearing sets between the spring guide and the piston head if they both have them.

 

Yes, in my Nov. 14 post above I said "Probably won't use the ball bearings on the piston head as in may increase FPS a bit due thickness, I also want that thing to be light as possible."
I also had a problem with a build where using both caused the spring to bind.[emoji16] Lesson learned

 

I got all the parts into a gearbox and operating ..Just got to dial a few things in and get the hop and barrel mated and installed. A few external to-do's and this build will be complete. I purty much suck at shimming and I seem to not be getting better or quicker (for that matter) at it but here's how she sounds. About 27 rps, shooting 320's fps with old and crappy hop and barrel setup I slid in there to test things.

 

Did you use the SHS HS? the ROF is very low for a 12TPA 12:1 build. What are the ratings on that battery, cause I don’t think there high enough. Or did you reduce the ROF with the Titan?

 

Did you use the SHS HS? the ROF is very low for a 12TPA 12:1 build. What are the ratings on that battery, cause I don't think there high enough. Or did you reduce the ROF with the Titan?

I used the SHS HS, BOA_SPCT3R thought I would get 28-30 rps with this build so I didn't think I was too far off. My chrono reads 26.4rps and the Titan read 26rps. The batteries are 7.4v, 1200mah, 25c--50c burst. I run 2 in parallel to double the mah. What worries me is that after running 1 mag through it (about 100 rounds) the batteries were a bit warm. This thing pulls a lot: average auto 39amps, average semi auto:61amps, max peak 97amps. I did this test with the batteries at their 30%ish storage charge. I'm no great tech and my shimming skills are suspect but everything is spinning free and without undue resistance as far as I can tell.
I will say that as for the RPS and FPS I'm right about where I want to be with this build. Just not sure about the heat and high amp draw.

---UPDATE-- I've been doing some research on gate Titans amp reporting and it seems there are mixed reviews on this. Lots of people are saying that the gate Titan gives unreasonably high amp draw readings, so this could be the case with me. There was that slightly warm battery though.

 

The shimming sounds good to me.

 

If you only want 28-30RPS, I would sell the SHS HS, get a 22TPA ZCI or JG Blue, and switch to a nice 11.1v. If you still want 34-36RPS then I would get a 16TPA SHS HT and a nice 11.1v. Also you should probably switch to an m120 or m130 and short stroke.

 

@Airsup is correct.

High torque motor and low ratio gears is the way to go. Personally I'd go the 22tpa route for the quicker trigger response and lower rps. IMO any rps above 30 (although impressive if an AEG and not HPA, and obviously fun) is not practical and often leads to overshooting.

nothing against high rps builds, as they're extremely impressive if done well, but for a practical build the faster response will have more of a benefit than the higher rps.

 

So, I've taken this build to my indoor field twice now and it did great. I was getting some burst on semi-auto as seen in my earlier videos. This was just some grease that got on the Titan's sensor, I cleaned that up and it's firing how it should. It's around 30rps and I'm ecstatic with that, it's a lot of fun and I really have no reason for more. It's still pulling a lot though. I ordered a 11.1v, 25-50c 1200mah lipo today and am going to try that combined with a ZCI 22TPA as Airsup suggested. I think it will be a healthier combination for this build. Anybody know the TPA of stock combat machine motors, I have one of those lying around and I had heard they were 21tpa, hard to believe though.

 

Anybody know the TPA of stock combat machine motors, I have one of those lying around and I had heard they were 21tpa, hard to believe though.

27tpa ferrite. If fed enough power they can actually pull moderately upgraded setups. I'd still highly recommend swapping in some neo magnets.

 

Ok, so I ordered an amp meter and tested this build. I haven't received the 11.1 or HT motor so this is with my current setup of SHS HS and 2ea 7.4s in parallel. It's kind of a pain to see on the screen but the values are substantially lower than the Titans amp readings. The meter shows a peak of about 16amps semi and about 25 full. The amp meter of course is wired directly between the batteries and the gun

 

Ok, got the ZCI HT and the 11.1 in today. I'm getting 26 rps so 4 rps less than SHS HS and 7.4. It's not exactly what I wanted in terms of loosing RPS but I think I can live with it....maybe Because the gun sounds MUCH better with the HT in there, I'm not sure if the ZCI pinion meshes with the SHS bevel better, the slower speed and high torque, or a combo of both but it sounds better. Overall I think it's a healthier build, but I want those 4rps back damn it
The Titan amp average readout says 15a auto, 41a semi, and 76 max peak. My little amp meter is reading 8a max semi and 13a max auto, so who knows why the discrepancy between the Titan and amp meter. When I hook the amp meter between the charger and battery the meter reads almost identical to what the charger output is reading. So i'm thinking the meter is accurate.
Just as with my 7.4 lipos in my primary, the 11.1 I got is 1200mah,25c-50c burst. On my primary I started using 2 of the 7.4s in parallel for the added capacity and because with just one, the battery was getting warm quicker than I liked. The parallel solution was.....a solution, and it's worked great.
The same is going on with the 11.1 it's getting warm quick, I'm picking up another tomorrow and will be running that parallel as well, should solve the problem.
Any thoughts??
I play tomorrow hopefully, so if I can live with 26rps I'm gonna call this build complete. If not, I'm gonna get my damn 4rps back while keeping the HT. I'm running SHS 12:1s

 

Just get a fat 11.1v. That will solve all your problems.

 

Or make a wiring harness for those 11.1s in series... MOAR POWAHHH

 

You'll probably gain 1-2 RPS just by using a beefier 11.1V li-po, that's a kinda anemic li-po you got there. You're also comparing a 22 TPA motor to a 12TPA motor, two very different animals.

 

This is slightly off track, but do you have a source that the SHS HS is 12tpa? Last time I did a build with one I labeled it as 12tpa. Someone said they thought it was 14, and I could not find confirmation of either anywhere on the internet.

 

I got the two 1200mah,25c-50c--11.1s in parallel along with the SHS HT. With the batteries in parallel I'm now getting 27-28rps and the batteries are staying cool. I didn't have a chance to play last night like I wanted but everything sounds, feels, and operates much "healthier" is the word I would choose. I'm gonna call this build complete. Or possibly get my lost 3rps back through making my internals more efficient...hmmmm Naw..I'll play with it for a while.

 

If the batteries no longer get hot then the lipos more than likely weren't supplying the current needed. Glad to hear that everything is working great now though! It's always awesome to see someone happy with their completed build.