[dugi]

I've noticed the overspin after 3months of use. It could lose tension if it has stayed cocked for days, am I correct? Will inspect the selector plate.

 

[dugi]

I've taken it apart just so i could get the GB out of the lower reciever. The sector plate looks good to me, did record it

So i guess i should change the spring and the cut off lever.

I've also tried to move gears with a thin screwdriver thru the GB openings and they are shimmed so good they didn't move up/down at all.
If he said that he has corrected aoe, then cylinder head probably has a bit more sorbo pad on that stock heads would have, but i will see in a week or two. I'll wait for the parts before i open it up.

I'm not scared of disassembly, the assembly scares me a bit... because i really need to take everything apart just to get to co lever.

Also, should i use grease or drops of oil after i clean it up and close it? Which one?
And is the M-block worth it to be put around the hopup chamber, i've heard that GB can crack, especially v2.

 

[dugi]

For the update on this

Cut off lever was intact, looked just like new. I've changed the spring to m120 and selector plate. Now there's no more overspin on single fire (it only happens like 5% of the time now, and only if I press trigger slowly...).

 

[dugi]

Some overspin is just the nature of AEG's. Obviously you have found the most common way to minimize it. As for it happening when you pull the trigger slowly, that will always happen if you pull it slowly. I am sure some people have spent a lot of time trying to modify the trigger trolley and cutoff lever to eliminate it, but seems like a lot of work when the simple fix to to pull the trigger with intent and confidence rather than "feathering" it. You can also buy an electronic trigger such as a BTC Spectre or Chimera to actually eliminate the issue, but again, the simple and easy fix is to pull the trigger with intent.

Regarding your selector switch being loose and not "clicking". It isn't an issue with the selector plate, but the external switch you flip. With the gearbox out, you can tighten the screw on the inside of the metal body. If it still doesn't "click" in place, that means you lost the ball bearing that resides inside the selector switch and drops into the detents of the fire mode positions on the metal body. This is probably the number one factor in preventing the fire selector from moving as it holds the selector in a definitive positions. If you purchase a new selector switch, it may have the needed ball bearing.

I've also fixed the selector switch but i didn't lose that pin inside it - the body of my m4 is like 5years old so the metal, where that pin should click in, is worn because of switching from safe to semi to auto etc. I've grinded it to shape of a cone, so it clicks in now. Next time, i'll have to replace the body i guess.
Thanks to all for help on this. Cheers